Well it wouldn't surprise me! They have everything! Not really into those but cheap as it was I thought someone might be interested.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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The 1-7X saws were pretty impressive. I have done some cutting with both a 1-72 and 1-76 and they can haul the mail.
Mark
Mark
My old friend Dan gave me a McCulloch chainsaw yesterday that had been collecting dust in his barn for the last 30+ years. Was his brother’s who hardly used it, and it might still have original chain on it. Seems a little more worn than that, but not much. Turns out to be a 10 10S. My first Mac, been wanting one since the chainsaw bug but. Will fit nicely between the MS250 and Dolkita 6421.
PS I remember back in the day my friend had a go cart with “a McCulloch chainsaw engine, hundred n’25 cc”. Back in the day!
PS I remember back in the day my friend had a go cart with “a McCulloch chainsaw engine, hundred n’25 cc”. Back in the day!
Attachments
Looks mint!
Well flomac as I have dubbed it, runs but does not oil. I am not familiar with these so
View attachment 1000000726.mp4
is there a super common issue with oilers on a 610?
View attachment 1000000726.mp4
is there a super common issue with oilers on a 610?
I suspect I will have to do the carb at some point as I had to really open the low jet for it to get enough fuel to stay running.
Two likely suspects Bob:
1) It is not uncommon for the oil line to come off inside the oil tank. To check this possibility, turn the was on its left side (starter side down) and try the manual oiler. If it oil, the oil line has come off and you will have to remove the oil tank to secure a new one in place.
2) The check valve for in oiler inlet can go bad, there are two types, the older saws had a serviceable disc, same one as used on the 10 Series oilers. These are rarely a problem. The later saws had an integral check valve in the oiler and if they fail, the pump needs to be replaced. You can find new pumps on eBay, Max has them, and I have them available.
If the manual oiler works in all positions but the automatic oiler does not, it is likely the piston for the impulse operated pump is sticking. Sometimes you get lucky and can just run the adjustment screw all the way down and back it out again to free the piston. More typically you have to remove the pump and free it up. It is possible to remove the 4 screws and take the pump out with the saw fully assembled, just remember to remove the manual oiler rod first...
Mark
1) It is not uncommon for the oil line to come off inside the oil tank. To check this possibility, turn the was on its left side (starter side down) and try the manual oiler. If it oil, the oil line has come off and you will have to remove the oil tank to secure a new one in place.
2) The check valve for in oiler inlet can go bad, there are two types, the older saws had a serviceable disc, same one as used on the 10 Series oilers. These are rarely a problem. The later saws had an integral check valve in the oiler and if they fail, the pump needs to be replaced. You can find new pumps on eBay, Max has them, and I have them available.
If the manual oiler works in all positions but the automatic oiler does not, it is likely the piston for the impulse operated pump is sticking. Sometimes you get lucky and can just run the adjustment screw all the way down and back it out again to free the piston. More typically you have to remove the pump and free it up. It is possible to remove the 4 screws and take the pump out with the saw fully assembled, just remember to remove the manual oiler rod first...
Mark
A mountain of good info as usual. Thank you sir. I forgot I had taken a pic from on top.Two likely suspects Bob:
1) It is not uncommon for the oil line to come off inside the oil tank. To check this possibility, turn the was on its left side (starter side down) and try the manual oiler. If it oil, the oil line has come off and you will have to remove the oil tank to secure a new one in place.
2) The check valve for in oiler inlet can go bad, there are two types, the older saws had a serviceable disc, same one as used on the 10 Series oilers. These are rarely a problem. The later saws had an integral check valve in the oiler and if they fail, the pump needs to be replaced. You can find new pumps on eBay, Max has them, and I have them available.
If the manual oiler works in all positions but the automatic oiler does not, it is likely the piston for the impulse operated pump is sticking. Sometimes you get lucky and can just run the adjustment screw all the way down and back it out again to free the piston.More typically you have to remove the pump and free it up. It is possible to remove the 4 screws and take the pump out with the saw fully assembled, just remember to remove the manual oiler rod first...
Mark
I will be off of saws for a while as my sister inlaw passed this morning but I will update later.
Sorry for your loss Bob.
The only way to determine which oil pump is to take it off and turn it over.
10 Series style disc
Integral, non serviceable
If you look carefully at the photos you will also see that the diaphragms are different, disc style has a tear drop shaped opening for the check valve, integral check valve has two smaller holes.
Mark
The only way to determine which oil pump is to take it off and turn it over.
10 Series style disc
Integral, non serviceable
If you look carefully at the photos you will also see that the diaphragms are different, disc style has a tear drop shaped opening for the check valve, integral check valve has two smaller holes.
Mark
Thanks Mark. Manual works well in all positions. At least I can use it if I need to. I have a few that are manual only so it's not a bother.
In that case the piston is stuck. You can try the adjustment screw (all the way down and back up again) or just remove the pump and free it by hand.
Mark
Mark
docholliday64
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi guys, looking for anyone that has any decent 10 series LHS clutch covers (non-chain brake version)? - have a couple of 10-10a's and a Pro Mac 55 that are missing the part.
I have some options, they are not cheap...
Mark
Mark
docholliday64
ArboristSite Lurker
Mark, I figured as much, what are you looking to get for a couple left-hand pull flavors?
doc - I sent a PM/conversation
Mark
Mark
CHainsaw short story.....a coworker of mine was yard saling and run across a guy who was moving and decided to sell it all. He had 2 saws. My friend asks how much and the guy says 5 dollars each...he buys em both. Calls me and says i got 2sawsfor you to clean up and get running for me. Ok i says...what are they. Both "off brand", but remember guys...5 dollars each...i said bring them to work ill get em checked out. The smaller is a cough cough stihl ms311. Needs a clutch and eclip and new chain. No worries. Fired right up and runs great. Number 2 saw...also orange and white, remember 5 dollars, is a ms462. A very expensive saw when new. All it needs is the oiler arm that the clutch drum catches. Perfect piston and cylinder, started great runs great. What a you suck yard sale story. 10 dollars he spent on saws.
Now for my good timing...today on ebay, a nos 82cc B engine block and oil tank, 50 bucks!! Now i need to start getting the rest of it to build another 82cc saw....winter project. Plenty of time. And yes i now own the 462 stihl..lol. He passed on the good deal. I gave a fair offer.
Now for my good timing...today on ebay, a nos 82cc B engine block and oil tank, 50 bucks!! Now i need to start getting the rest of it to build another 82cc saw....winter project. Plenty of time. And yes i now own the 462 stihl..lol. He passed on the good deal. I gave a fair offer.
eBay last week...
My shop this week...
I have pistons, rods, crankshafts/bearings/seals, FY side covers, and tank assemblies...I just don't have any time...
Mark
My shop this week...
I have pistons, rods, crankshafts/bearings/seals, FY side covers, and tank assemblies...I just don't have any time...
Mark
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