Husky 455 rancher?

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3 things... I have 2 parts saws on the way. One of them is getting torn down and rebuilt for a "bolt for bolt" video to add to my collection of youtube diy vids.

2... I will likely have a pile of parts afterwards and likely a tank will be amongst the parts which I will put up for sale.

3 ... a running 455 rancher is worth about $250.... a nice one maybe $300, brandy new $400. the clutch cover alone goes for $50. at $150 for a tank, I would part the thing out before I put a new tank in it.

I've rebuilt over a dozen of these from the crank on up... they are easy to do, once you get the hang of it :)

I subscribed to your channel and looking forward to a video on the 455 R. BTW, not sure of the PITA it would be to fix Canadian saws, but a new 455 is $599.99 up here.
 
Not as bad as you think if that price is in Canadian Dollars (CAD) as that exchanges to 412.8750 USD before taxes but parts are definitely higher across the the line. I know of several techs that have drops on the US side to save on the extra charges.
 
you can get alot of money in just the plastics of a saw and that is what alot of people look at when buying a used saw if the plastics are discolored cracked or chipped they will usually not buy or offer alot less than would if looked almost new
 
Yes that eye candy gets a lot junkers sold at yard sales and flea markets. I had to give the bad news several times last year on Poulan Pro clam shells. Cost more to repair than you can reasonably buy a new one for especially if the PNC and bar are trashed which a lot of what I see from yard sales are.

At least Husqvarna PNC prices are coming down.
 
usually plastics indicate how much a saw has been used. other indicators, especially on 455 ranchers are the gas cap...how buggard it is, as well as the chain catcher. It its been use a bit, odds are it needs a teardown and cleaning... primer bulbs go, air filter, plug, lines etc...all that stuff adds up quick. I don't mind having cruddy looking plastics on my saws as long as I know I've done bearings and seals, and all the rubber bits so that the saw runs reliably.... but others can and should use the plastics as an indicator of use level.

Al, if your saw is from 2010/2011, and has 12 cord/yr... meaning roughly 50 cord of wood on it, I'm gonna take a guess and say that 50 cord is way beyond the expected average homeowner use level on a 455 rancher. ... not that it can't do it, but after rebuilding a pile of these I can honestly say that its probably time for a teardown anyway. Other than that case, you'll be surprised at what you find needs to be replaced when you tear it all down.
 
...saw is from 2010/2011, and has 12 cord/yr... meaning roughly 50 cord of wood on it, I'm gonna take a guess and say that 50 cord is way beyond the expected average homeowner use level on a 455 rancher.
Actually he said he did 12 face cords per year which may be 4 real cords per year and that is in line with home owner usage. I agree with you about the costs to refurbish saws though. I typically have $80 to $100 of parts in any saw I refurb and that is only if there are no unusual needs (tanks, flywheels, pistons, etc).

For a saw with this little usage, $100 delivered might be a little low, especially if someone with a little knowledge of a soldering iron could fix it for a little invested time. For sight unseen though, $100 minimizes the risk to the buyer.
 
Plastic welding can done but takes lots of practice and knowledge to do it correctly. I only do it as a last ditch effort to fix a non-replaceable part.

First you got have the correct filler material in the correct color (if your trying match the color). With HDPE plastics the temperature between the melting point and the burning point are fairly close. Using not enough heat results poor fusion and a little too much makes it brittle and too much just burns it. All the surface oxidation, dirts, and oils must be remove too. It isn't like mixing up a little epoxy and slabbing it on hoping it holds.
 
About a hour to prep and apply and 24 hours to cure. Did a thin mix and put in the tank and put the saw in position to run the stuff in place. Once it had dried to a holding hardness mixed up a thicker batch and applied it to the out side. about 30 hours later it seems to be holding after running a tank of fuel thru the saw and refilling and let set for 6 hours last I looked last evening.

http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

:D Al
 
Sure beats paying the local guys to fix it!

I've never worked on one of these new-fangled saws. Is the fuel tank part of the chassis or is it still like the older saws where it is part of the rear handle?
 
on the rancher its all one piece....oil and gas tank and lower half o the crankcase. I'll have a bolt for bolt vid soon so you can see what it looks like.

I've seen plastic repairs before... I really hope this works for you, but i'm convinced that really nothing actually sticks to this type of plastic. if it holds for a year or two I suppose its done its job. hopefully you get lots more time on it.
 
Well it has held for over a week now, really about 10 days. I think the prep is the key. sand the area as best you can and do a chemical wipe clean to get rid of the sanding residue. Apply the product per the instructions as close as you can and you should be fine.

:D Al
 
Well it held for over 90 days of being used just about every day. I put it in storage mode April 1st. for close to 60 days. Got it out last week filled it with fuel and oil and cut till it ran dry and it is still holding.
I highly recommend this stuff.
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html
Clean the area ruff it with sand paper clean again and follow the instructions.

:D Al
 
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