Husky 55 porting and bearing removal

[adammarinette]

Hello, I've been lurking on AS for a while now. I know how the forums work and would normally find all my answers with the search function, but link bucks took care of that for me.

Any way I am going through a free 55 that I received and would like to try my hand at woods porting and muff mod. I realize it's not going to be a $1200 xp saw when I'm done, but it seems like a good saw to learn on.

I think I have a good grasp on muff mod, and have read through the two 2 stroke tuners books I have, but have some porting questions as this ol 55 has what i think are opwn transfer ports, just slots cut in the cylinder.

1.What can you do with open transfer ports? Widen the top and smooth out bottom? Leave em alone?

2. I read somewhere on here in the past about a general rule for port area vs piston diameter, anyone recall what that was?

3. Also is there any recommended methods for removing and installing oil pump drive gear off crank to replace bearing and seals? I don't think I'm going to be able to get a bearing splitter behind it.

Thanks ahead of time, and sorry to ask, I wouldn't if the search was available.

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[wap13]

Hello, I've been lurking on AS for a while now. I know how the forums work and would normally find all my answers with the search function, but link bucks took care of that for me.

Any way I am going through a free 55 that I received and would like to try my hand at woods porting and muff mod. I realize it's not going to be a $1200 xp saw when I'm done, but it seems like a good saw to learn on.

I think I have a good grasp on muff mod, and have read through the two 2 stroke tuners books I have, but have some porting questions as this ol 55 has what i think are opwn transfer ports, just slots cut in the cylinder.

1.What can you do with open transfer ports? Widen the top and smooth out bottom? Leave em alone?

2. I read somewhere on here in the past about a general rule for port area vs piston diameter, anyone recall what that was?

3. Also is there any recommended methods for removing and installing oil pump drive gear off crank to replace bearing and seals? I don't think I'm going to be able to get a bearing splitter behind it.

Thanks ahead of time, and sorry to ask, I wouldn't if the search was available.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk now Free

I dont have any info for you but I just picked up a 55 also and would like to know the same info. I have searched as well but that function still seems to be unusable.

 

[nmurph]

Open ports are treated just like closed ports.

If this is your first porting venture, I would just open the exhaust and intake ports to 65% of the piston (~28mm) and match the lower portion of the transfers to the case using the base gasket as a guide. I would use a very gradual taper from the new outer edge of the transfers into the existing transfer. Opening up the transfers too much can destroy charge velocity and make for a sluggish saw. You can also extend the upper portion of the rear transfer toward the intake some. That will get you some gains. Keep the side walls of the intake and exhaust as square as possible with a little bit of rounding off in the corners. Make sure to re-bevel the intake and exhaust ports or you will surely snag a ring.

There is a puller made just for those oilers. I'm sure you can fab something if you are handy with a welder.

 

[wap13]

Open ports are treated just like closed ports.

If this is your first porting venture, I would just open the exhaust and intake ports to 65% of the piston (~28mm) and match the lower portion of the transfers to the case using the base gasket as a guide. I would use a very gradual taper from the new outer edge of the transfers into the existing transfer. Opening up the transfers too much can destroy charge velocity and make for a sluggish saw. You can also extend the upper portion of the rear transfer toward the intake some. That will get you some gains. Keep the side walls of the intake and exhaust as square as possible with a little bit of rounding off in the corners. Make sure to re-bevel the intake and exhaust ports or you will surely snag a ring.

There is a puller made just for those oilers. I'm sure you can fab something if you are handy with a welder.

In your experience are you usually able to delete the base gasket? Not to highjack but it seems relevant to this discussion.

 

[nmurph]

In your experience are you usually able to delete the base gasket? Not to highjack but it seems relevant to this discussion.

Sorry, but I don't remember. On most Huskies you have to delete and replace the stock gasket with an aluminum can gasket.

 

[tolman_paul]

In your experience are you usually able to delete the base gasket? Not to highjack but it seems relevant to this discussion.

Saws have tolerances, so you'll have to do the old solder/micrometer trick to see what the squish is on your saw with the base gasket to determine of you can remove it. In many cases you can, but you have to measure first.

It's very difficult to port transfers w/o a right angle grinding attachment, so if you don't have one you might want to think twice before touching the transfers. Raising the exhaust a tad and increasing the intake duration a tad can liven up the engine a bit so don't fret if you only open them up.

 

[272super]

I've never seen a open port 55 that could not lose the base gasket. Check your squish of course but it there will be more than enough clearance. You would get a nice gain by just the base gasket mod and a muffer mod. Are you sure the bearings are bad? Not common to see bad bearings on the 55 unless it was exposed to moisture,etc.

 

[Gypo Logger]

The 55 is a good wood saw, fell heir to 5 of them. Easy to work on, just opened up muffler, removed base gasket and took 1mm off intake side of piston skirt. choke arrangement sucks a bit, but otherwise a good strong sturdy saw.

 

[adammarinette]

Yes, it sat full of water for a while. Hence that's why is was free. The mains have that permanent sand in bearing feeling. I am going to just hope the rod bearing holds up, I can see a little pitting but it feels OK. All the aluminum parts are in good shape.

I really appreciate all your help. One of you guys should self publish something on modding saws... Maybe "50 shades Of Orange" hahaha

I am waiting on parts at the moment. Do any of you guys operate out of northern Wisconsin / UP? Or any AS sponsors in my area?

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