Husky 562xp Crank Seal Installation

[5toesss]

Hello all! First post here.. excellent forum and learning lots!!

I have a 562XP I have been working on that is giving me some trouble. I have attempted twice to replace the flywheel side crank seal and have had no luck.

First time the seal rolled the lip over and I got another. Second time I was more careful but still had same problem.. was able to correct the seal though with a pick tool and thought it was fine..... well the saw ran good for about 5 minutes and now is leaking again and wont idle. I pressure tested the unit using my Mityvac and the Husqvarna OEM service tools and found the seal to be leaking (surprise).

This time I have another seal and the factory service tools to install it (part numbers SLEEVE # 5753470-01 and GUIDE # 5753469-01) and seal part # 525391201. All seals I have used have been OE Husqvarna parts.

I am hoping third time will be the charm with the correct service tools but can anyone offer up some advice on how to get this right? I have been using grease everytime by the way. TIA

 

[huskihl]

I use a strip of aluminum can rolled up to act as a ramp to get the seal over the lip

 

[5toesss]

Little update.. using the factory tools this job was very easy. The new seal went in smoothly and after a couple short run cycles the saw still idles perfectly. I did pressure test it per the manual after the installation (pressurize to .8 bar and should hold above .6 bar for 30 seconds)`and it passed with flying colors.

Time will tell but this factory service manual is IMPERATIVE for this saw.

Cheers!!

 

[cbfarmall]

I use a strip of aluminum can rolled up to act as a ramp to get the seal over the lip

I've done seals in a hundred saws using the old aluminum can trick. Couldn't afford to buy special tools for all the different brands I have if they were even available. For me, the tricky part is not getting seal cockeyed in the case. That'll ruin it quick, fast and in a hurry.

 

[huskihl]

I've done seals in a hundred saws using the old aluminum can trick. Couldn't afford to buy special tools for all the different brands I have if they were even available. For me, the tricky part is not getting seal cockeyed in the case. That'll ruin it quick, fast and in a hurry.

I hear ya. I don’t have any factory tools, but I’ve bought a splitter and some of Mattyo’s assembly tools. Haven’t found a saw yet that won’t seal up for a vacuum test with rubber strips or Gorilla tape cut to size. I’d have a couple of years in saw hobby income tied up in oem tools if that were the case

 

[5toesss]

The pop can trick is great to know. Will have to try it next time I am presented the opportunity. I am only 25 and always looking for tricks like that from old timers and more experienced folk.

 

[huskihl]

The pop can trick is great to know. Will have to try it next time I am presented the opportunity. I am only 25 and always looking for tricks like that from old timers and more experienced folk.

Just have to be careful when you slide the seal down, rotate it away from the sharp lip of the aluminum. If you slide it straight down it can slice it and if you turn it into the edge it can slice it and ruin the seal

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just have to be careful when you slide the seal down, rotate it away from the sharp lip of the aluminum. If you slide it straight down it can slice it and if you turn it into the edge it can slice it and ruin the seal

Good on you for sharing- you old timer!

 

[weimedog]

This comment isn't directed to the OP, but to those who happen to stumble by because they have a 562 with "issues" traced to crank seals. Often, not always, if the crank seal is done, so are the main bearings. A kind of a chicken or the egg argument which comes first. Husqvarna sells a "Short Block" for the 562 with considerable upgrades. As cool as it is to split and replace bearings, the cost of a Short Block is still pretty low and the upgrades substantial over earlier pre 2016 562 saws. Pretty much any older 562 that has a air leak or some bottom end issue I would simply recommend going right for a short block. Last I looked in 2020 the dealer cost for a short block was in the $125 range, so depending on the dealer, they have to feed their families! Your cost will still be under $200.....might be worth a look and ask your local dealer if they can get one. I'm not going to post the part Number, please don't ask. SOME dealers are pretty "up" on these things but all dealers should be able to find and help you with a VERY cost effective option.

 

[kevin j]

Pop can aluminum will have a burr edge when it’s cut with the tinsnips. I used to use 35mm film negative. One disadvantage of the digital age. now I use clear plastic cut from the lid of a cardboard donut box or thin plastic of some sort.

 

[huskihl]

Pop can aluminum will have a burr edge when it’s cut with the tinsnips. I used to use 35mm film negative. One disadvantage of the digital age. now I use clear plastic cut from the lid of a cardboard donut box or thin plastic of some sort.

It will have a burr on one side, but not both.

 

[5toesss]

Thanks for all the help guys. Original problem on this saw was that it leaked all the bar oil out overnight. Upon closer inspection, found that the wrong screws had been installed on the lower handle mount (they were too long) and the repeated action of setting the saw down on the ground had caused the bolts to puncture and ultimately crack the crankcase/bar oil tank.

I took it apart, JB welded the crankcase inside and outside and re-assembled. She runs good now, no leaks! Had a problem with the crank seal but left bearings alone. Saw ran fine in the first place.. hoping it holds but will be replacing short block per your recommendations if the need should arise in the future.

Cheers!!

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have about a thousand old strips of negatives left over from when cameras had rolls of film and the film had to be sent in for developing, those negative film strips make excellent cones for seal install over shouldered cranks. Been using them for that since the 60`s.

 

[Tobystihl]

I use the plastic window from chain boxes myself

 

[sean donato]

This comment isn't directed to the OP, but to those who happen to stumble by because they have a 562 with "issues" traced to crank seals. Often, not always, if the crank seal is done, so are the main bearings. A kind of a chicken or the egg argument which comes first. Husqvarna sells a "Short Block" for the 562 with considerable upgrades. As cool as it is to split and replace bearings, the cost of a Short Block is still pretty low and the upgrades substantial over earlier pre 2016 562 saws. Pretty much any older 562 that has a air leak or some bottom end issue I would simply recommend going right for a short block. Last I looked in 2020 the dealer cost for a short block was in the $125 range, so depending on the dealer, they have to feed their families! Your cost will still be under $200.....might be worth a look and ask your local dealer if they can get one. I'm not going to post the part Number, please don't ask. SOME dealers are pretty "up" on these things but all dealers should be able to find and help you with a VERY cost effective option.

I have to agree with just getting a case, i picked up a builder from a member here, with known bad bottom end. HL supply has a sale on crankcase every now and then, they go for well under $200.00 with free shipping. The bearings and seals alone run over $90.00 and the tools to split the case are well over $100.00. Now I have all the tools as I've rebuilt a few of these not knowing a brand new case was so cheap compared to the parts needed to fix a bottom end on a 562xp. I highly doubt I'll split a case on one any time soon. Just not worth the hassle.

 

[huskihl]

I have to agree with just getting a case, i picked up a builder from a member here, with known bad bottom end. HL supply has a sale on crankcase every now and then, they go for well under $200.00 with free shipping. The bearings and seals alone run over $90.00 and the tools to split the case are well over $100.00. Now I have all the tools as I've rebuilt a few of these not knowing a brand new case was so cheap compared to the parts needed to fix a bottom end on a 562xp. I highly doubt I'll split a case on one any time soon. Just not worth the hassle.

I should’ve bought several last spring. $110 shipped on ebay

 

[sean donato]

I should’ve bought several last spring. $110 shipped on ebay

Yeah me too...