Husky 61 won't stay running

[mtcowboy77]

Hello all! I haven't been on the site in awhile due to other boring life problems getting in the way of my saw "condition". Anyhow, I have a question about one of them that I think I know the answer to but I wanted to check with some people with more experience and knowledge before I went too crazy on it.
I have a Husky 61 (newer one, orange top) that I got used. I tore it down most of the way and cleaned it up and put it back together. Everything seems fine with one exception...it doesn't always want to stay running unless its at WOT. Once in awhile, when I let off the throttle, it will stay running. But then I might get back on it to make a cut, and when I let off all the way, it cuts out. While it's running, it sounds good. It seemed to tune well with this one exception. It basically sounds like it's just getting too much fuel and choking out, but like I said, it doesn't happen every time it's running. I've tried adjusting the H and L sides (both seem to tune just fine) but it doesn't seem to change anything. My asumption is that it just needs a carb rebuild. Does this sound correct or is there something else I should check first?

 

[HiOctane]

Yes,look at the carb first.Check if you dont have a welch plug leaking.Also,look at the inlet tip if you dont see a "groove" on it.Be sure your inlet lever is flush with body.Had a new kit installed if you see worn or damaged things.

 

[Agrarian]

Yes, it sounds like a carb problem. If a saw dies when letting off the throttle it can indicate the valve in the main jet is not functioning correctly. On the old carb that you likely have in that saw, it uses a simple fine mesh screen as a capillary valve. It could be that the screen is damaged (did you blow out the carb with high air pressure?).

In the 1997 IPL the carb used a main jet that incorporates a mechanical valve but the 1993 IPL still shows the capillary valve being used.

What is the year and model of the carb?

 

[mtcowboy77]

Yes, it sounds like a carb problem. If a saw dies when letting off the throttle it can indicate the valve in the main jet is not functioning correctly. On the old carb that you likely have in that saw, it uses a simple fine mesh screen as a capillary valve. It could be that the screen is damaged (did you blow out the carb with high air pressure?).

In the 1997 IPL the carb used a main jet that incorporates a mechanical valve but the 1993 IPL still shows the capillary valve being used.

What is the year and model of the carb?

Thanks for the reply Agrarian. No, I didn't blow the carb out. It was pretty nasty so I hosed it down good with carb cleaner but that's about it. I'm not sure on the details of the carb. I'll have to take a look at it. Carbs are one of those things that I've never really grasped that well (I'm having the same "learning issues" with our old truck) so I'm trying to learn what I can. How would I tell what year the carb is? I'm assuming that there will be some kind of stamp on it somewhere for the model. Would the year be located in that somewhere?

 

[backhoelover]

could be a air leak

 

[Agrarian]

If it is a Walbro, it likely is an HDA series but which HDA. If you take off the top cover it should be engraved upside down by the adjustment screws.

If it is a Tillotson, I am much less familiar but you would see Tillotson on the top and then look around for the model stamped on it somewhere.

 

[backhoelover]

if it have 2 high and low needles then you need to check he nozzle check valve here is the service manual it will help you checking the carb this will help you understand the carb a little better

 

[Agrarian]

if it have 2 high and low needles then you need to check he nozzle check valve

Sorry, I don't understand what you are trying to say. What does the number of needle valves have to do with checking the main jet check valve?

A great offer of the Walbro manuals though.

 

[backhoelover]

you have to remove the h needle and the metering cover plates cover the small holes next to the main check as you have called it stick a small piece of fuel line into where the high needle goes you should be able to blow but you should not be able to suck back its all in the service manual above stihl haves a better way to test but it is in word and the website desnt support word

 

[backhoelover]

pg 16

 

[Agrarian]

you have to remove the h needle and the metering cover plates cover the small holes next to the main check as you have called it stick a small piece of fuel line into where the high needle goes you should be able to blow but you should not be able to suck back its all in the service manual above stihl haves a better way to test but it is in word and the website desnt support word

It would really help me read this if you put periods at the end of the sentences . This method works only for the mechanical check valves but the OP has not told us that is what he has.

 

[backhoelover]

lol ok.

 

[mtcowboy77]

Ok, so I finally got a chance to look at the carb. (Sorry guys, I've been busy) The top says "TILLOTSSON TRALEE IRELAND". On the right side (the side with the fuel line) there is another stamp, but it's harder to read. It looks like it was stamped, then another stamp was put over the top of it. From what I can tell it says "S254A315", but the 5 and the 4, and then the 3 and the 5 look like they were stamped a couple of times. ???