Husky or Stihl

[Socalmisfit]

It's kinda tough to tell from the pics, but I'd much rather tackle that with a 20-24" bar on a 70cc saw. Yes, there will be some cuts from both sides, but the bars and chains are much cheaper and it's way faster to file or grind a 72 or 84dl chain. Also, it'll be a lot less cumbersome to carry around.

A 20" bar on a 70cc saw is a good setup for hardwood firewood. It's certainly more engaging than a 32" would be on that size saw; that would require a little patience. Get a 28" to hang on the wall and use when needed.

I don’t mind a double cut just want something with more hp and the extra 8 inches of bar will be great. Like I said I’ll put a smaller bar on the 455 for the smaller stuff and it will rip through it. Kind of leaning toward the 365 I can do the mods and have a 372. I’ll see what comes up used too.

 

[user 122190]

I don’t mind a double cut just want something with more hp and the extra 8 inches of bar will be great. Like I said I’ll put a smaller bar on the 455 for the smaller stuff and it will rip through it. Kind of leaning toward the 365 I can do the mods and have a 372. I’ll see what comes up used too.

When you are falling big trees the "double" cut can create bad hinges and make your falling problematic. 32" bar is nice to have, albeit a bit much as your primary B&C. Good to get a saw that will pull it, in case it is needed.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

When you are falling big trees the "double" cut can create bad hinges and make your falling problematic. 32" bar is nice to have, albeit a bit much as your primary B&C. Good to get a saw that will pull it, in case it is needed.

Agreed. A 28-32" bar on a 70cc saw is a great combo for felling trees!

 

[DaddyFlip]

I’ll see what comes up used too.

In this case, look for a 288; compared to a 372 about twice the saw at half the price on the used market where a 28-32 inch bar is needed. At least what I've shopped for and seen recently.

 

[chipper1]

In this case, look for a 288; compared to a 372 about twice the saw at half the price on the used market where a 28-32 inch bar is needed. At least what I've shopped for and seen recently.

Welcome to AS Daddy.
I think either the 372's are expensive there or the 288 are cheap in your market.
A 288 will drink a lot more fuel than a 372 and it doesn't make a big difference in time savings for firewooding. I also prefer the quick clips filter covers on the 372 over the screws on the 288 and the side tensioner on the 372. If I wanted something with a bit more power I'd be looking at a 7910 for value and a 390xp if I was making the leap to a bigger saw and didn't care about the price, but if you can get a 288 for a good price and don't mind the extra weight, rubber anti vibe(I know it has a spring on the front(it weighs almost a full lb by itself), the poor fuel economy, the front tensioner, filter cover screws, then I'd say go for it as they will run forever. Just not my preference for a saw that sounds like it will get quite a bit of use, but speaking of sound a 288 sure has a distinct one, and it's sweet .

 

[chipper1]

Welcome to AS @Socalmisfit. I think dealer support if you need it is something to look at. @chipper1 knows the hooskey stuff pretty good. He'll be along shortly. I'm a Stihl guy and I don't count the ace hardware stores as being a Stihl saw shop. I personally like my 462 for big wood. Good luck with whatever you get.

You called .

 

[chipper1]

What’s up guys first time posting, and I’m looking for a new saw. I’m in the hi desert of California and I do firewood in the cold season. Somewhere around 10-20 cords. I have the 455 rancher and it works good for what I do out here but I want to upgrade to a bigger saw for the bigger rounds. And maybe put a shorter bar on the 455 for the smaller stuff. I’m looking at the Stihl ms 391 or the husky 365. The 365 is more $ but for overall cc’s and power they are close. I will be putting the biggest bar I can on either saw a 25 on the stihl or a 28 on the husky. I guess the 460 rancher would be more comparable to the 391 but I want the bigger bar so 365 or 391?

There is a Stihl dealer in town but I wouldn’t say they are the greatest dealer. It is a hardware store and with a few hrs of looking on the internet I would probably know just as much or more about the products they sell. I work on my own stuff anyways so that don’t matter to me. I’ve had my husky and love the saw, I just know that stihl is a competitive brand to husky and was wondering your opinions on them.

Another question about the chains, if I do get the husky, what’s the difference between the .50 gauge, .58. Gauge, and the 3/8 solid. Thanks for the input.

Welcome to AS @Socalmisfit .
Last time I was out your way I was skiing at mt high, beautiful country out there.
I agree with much of what's been said here already so I won't bore you.
A 70 would be a nice jump up from where you currently are at with the 455. When you get into a 70 they will have no problem running a 24 and will do just fine running a 28 if the chain is not to aggressive as well as oiling it, but depending on the eucalyptus you're cutting you may need to move to a semi skip or full skip to help keep the rpm in the torque curve. But I think if you were to calculate the hp per inch of bar length on your 455 the you would have a good idea of where the other saws would cut based on their up per inch of bar you want to run.
Hope this helps .

 

[DaddyFlip]

Welcome to AS Daddy.
I think either the 372's are expensive there or the 288 are cheap in your market.
A 288 will drink a lot more fuel than a 372 and it doesn't make a big difference in time savings for firewooding. I also prefer the quick clips filter covers on the 372 over the screws on the 288 and the side tensioner on the 372. If I wanted something with a bit more power I'd be looking at a 7910 for value and a 390xp if I was making the leap to a bigger saw and didn't care about the price, but if you can get a 288 for a good price and don't mind the extra weight, rubber anti vibe(I know it has a spring on the front(it weighs almost a full lb by itself), the poor fuel economy, the front tensioner, filter cover screws, then I'd say go for it as they will run forever. Just not my preference for a saw that sounds like it will get quite a bit of use, but speaking of sound a 288 sure has a distinct one, and it's sweet .

I think you are probably right on all points; pawned 372s are almost the same price as new WITH bar, I suppose since there are still some available. 288s OTOH are long gone and some/most don't know what they are. That's why I'm looking at them; mostly for fun and profit. Although my 288s are spring AV all around...? One thing for sure, lotsa options out there!

 

[KiwiBro]

View attachment 796958
Here’s some of the stuff I cut through. Eucalyptus.

Dolmar/Makita 7900/7910, but if you want to stay with Husqvarna just get a 395 and be done with it. You've got the smaller saw for the small stuff and the bigger saw willl mow through so much faster you'll wonder why you waited so long. Further, you'll be good to go when those bigger trees/logs find you (as they tend to do once word gets out you've got a bigger saw). The Dolkita will oil up to about 32" just fine (more if .063 guage and you do a simple oiler mod). The 395 will laugh at that wood in the picture and when done laughing will ask where the real wood is.

 

[user 122190]

Agreed. A 28-32" bar on a 70cc saw is a great combo for felling trees!

When I first started cutting firewood, it was all dead fall. Now it is mostly dead standing. Better quality, more available, and fun. I have fallen a few trees with to short a bar, because I didn't have my long bar with me. A bit dicey once or twice, and not again.

 

[chipper1]

When they get a bit bigger you have to work with what you got or walk away, big and scary pays better than small and "easy". Bummer is I don't get to many big ones.
28" bar, you can see where it reached if you look close, doesn't look too big in the pictures.
42 wouldn't have made it, a 50 would have, but it sure would stink to have a 50 stuck in there if it decided to drop on you .

 

[KiwiBro]

When they get a bit bigger you have to work with what you got or walk away, big and scary pays better than small and "easy". Bummer is I don't get to many big ones.
28" bar, you can see where it reached if you look close, doesn't look too big in the pictures.
42 wouldn't have made it, a 50 would have, but it should would stink to have a 50 stuck in there if it decided to drop on you .

Good point. Longer bars get expensive when SHTF

 

[chipper1]

Good point. Longer bars get expensive when SHTF
View attachment 797124

What the heck bro .
You need to send it to that guy Philbert posted the video of straightening that harvester bar in the hydraulic press, that was pretty awesome.
When you have a multi-stem tree with inclusion and part of it decided to drop/split off or storm damage with fractures you can have a real mess on your hands .

 

[KiwiBro]

What the heck bro .
You need to send it to that guy Philbert posted the video of straightening that harvester bar in the hydraulic press, that was pretty awesome.
When you have a multi-stem tree with inclusion and part of it decided to drop/split off or storm damage with fractures you can have a real mess on your hands .

Anyone wants to take a crack at it, they are welcome. With the $ I saved buying the Chinesium jacks that both bypassed under 1/2 the advertised tonnage when I really needed them to at least hit the rated force the most, I could have bought another bar. Well, I had to anyway, but I'm still left with two sh1t jacks and a bent, near new bar.
But I got the last laugh out of that red dragon once I bought another 42" bar :


bucked up the logs and hauled them out :



Milled them into decking and made a table from the left-over slab wood :



But I really should have just bought a few good jacks and saved myself a heap of $ and time in the long run. Do it once, do it right. That's why I suggest a 395. It'll happily chew through those gum logs.

 

[DaddyFlip]

Anyone wants to take a crack at it, they are welcome. With the $ I saved buying the Chinesium jacks that both bypassed under 1/2 the advertised tonnage when I really needed them to at least hit the rated force the most, I could have bought another bar. Well, I had to anyway, but I'm still left with two sh1t jacks and a bent, near new bar.
But I got the last laugh out of that red dragon once I bought another 42" bar :
View attachment 797129

 

[KiwiBro]

View attachment 797135
View attachment 797134

Tsumura stop at 36", the sugi was real cheap. Frankly, if i could handle a bigger bar I'd use it but I'm getting weaker, not stronger, darn it. Some of the slopes and trees I work on make Swedish stump dancing impossible. Plus, I'll never be as skilled as some of the fellers here who use small bars on big trees for the sport/challenge.

 

[full chizel]

@Socalmisfit

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-365xt.340027/

 

[chipper1]

@Socalmisfit

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-365xt.340027/

That saw runs well, had my hands on it last weekend.
The top cover was replaced with a nicer one as well.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Good point. Longer bars get expensive when SHTF
View attachment 797124

Is that there one of them new Husky bars that cuts around corners?
So as how you can sneak up on those trees that are runners and get them while you hide behind another tree?

Give it three years and Stihl will release a similar version.....