Husquarna 135 mk ii - idle adjustment

[pigeon_No_9]

Hello,

I'm new here but seems to be a populated place, so I thought someone could have info which I'm looking for. Just bought my first chainsaw - Husqvarna 135 mk ii. I have worked with some other Husqvarna chainsaws before, and I guess I did not do my homework expecting this to perform the same as the other ones I remember. It's somewhat enough for what I am using it for but as it goes with power - you get used to it quickly and always desire more (or is it just me?). Anyways, what's done is done.
Took it out for couple test runs and first three re-fuels were just fine. Then few days later, I did the usual start routine with choke and priming but when disengaging the half-choke (Not sure if this is how it's actually called, but the state where it runs with some rews after starting it and continues to do so until throttle is pushed) and then dies. I tried to adjust the T nut, , since the saw runs alright if I keep the throttle pressed but stalls immediately or after couple of seconds I let go.
This adjustment is like trying to adjust a Swiss watch. I am not over-exaggerating, I turned the screw in increments of 1/12, tried this cycle for like 20 times at least - result is always the same. I tighten the screw for whatever I feel will have the chain running, start the saw, let it run with half-choke and push the throttle - the chain is spinning. Then I turn the screw counter-clockwise for ridiculously small amount, rew it up, give it a few seconds to get used to new carb setting and if chain is still going, - repeat. There is always one last turn (with chain still running) which results in saw stalling. I did not get the chain to stop and engine running. Idle is either too high or it stalls.
Took it to shop, they adjusted it. When I got working the next day (First run after the shop) it took about 30 minutes to start this adventure all over again. I once more tried adjusting the T nut, but with the same result.
I know it is likely related with the L screw, but Husqvarna has specifically stated (at least in manual for my saw) that this is not to be fiddled with by end user. Since it's almost new and I don't want to void my warranty, I did not touch it and took it to shop the second time.
So my question is, has anyone had this issue and can verify if the L screw would solve my issue? If so, and IF the guys in the shop won't manage to get it right the second time either, I may be tempted to try it myself.
Few videos I've seen with this saw, almost all had fishy starts and stalls and delay between the throttle and engine actually rewing up - makes me think these do not get tuned very well from the factory. I know, - you get what you pay for, which in this case is not much, but it actually remaining on, would be nice for 250 EUR.

So in the end, - I apologize for the long thread, I thank whoever takes time to read through, and I hope I made my self clear enough, as English is not my first language.
Best of luck!
Pigeon

 

[Cedrus]

Hi!
Is there any progress?
I hope you solved the problem .
Husqvarna 135 Mk II is currently at the top of my list so any information is helpful to me .

 

[svk]

Sounds as though the L is way off or you have sone other issue. Bring it back to the dealer. You never should need to readjust if you are not changing altitudes.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

Hi!
Is there any progress?
I hope you solved the problem .
Husqvarna 135 Mk II is currently at the top of my list so any information is helpful to me .

Hello!

Yes, I got the saw from the service yesterday. Upon receiving it, I asked what they have done and he told me that he adjusted the L and T screw since if you change one, the other must be matched. Idle RPM were too low for engine to remain on and the bogging between the throttle and engine reacting to it, somewhat hinted to that L screw.
Once more, verified - these are not to be adjusted by customers. One thing he said though, that this is a symptom of a small engine saws. So if you can, save up for something more professional in terms of engine size.
Overall, I feel that this is a nice, small, light saw adequate for my needs (Firewood from old floor boards, some 15x15cm cutoffs etc.) but I would buy something with more oomph if I had to choose now.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

Sounds as though the L is way off or you have sone other issue. Bring it back to the dealer. You never should need to readjust if you are not changing altitudes.

Hi! I got it yesterday and indeed, in the shop the guy told me that he adjusted the L screw, but it's the second time he has done it (Aside from factory tuning). Gave it a test run yesterday for some 15 minutes and everything seems to be okay now. Fingers crossed.
Regarding the altitude, I live on as flat of a land as it gets. Should it require to be adjusted for the third time, I will ask if I can return it and get something else.

 

[Cedrus]

Hello!

Yes, I got the saw from the service yesterday. Upon receiving it, I asked what they have done and he told me that he adjusted the L and T screw since if you change one, the other must be matched. Idle RPM were too low for engine to remain on and the bogging between the throttle and engine reacting to it, somewhat hinted to that L screw.
Once more, verified - these are not to be adjusted by customers. One thing he said though, that this is a symptom of a small engine saws. So if you can, save up for something more professional in terms of engine size.
Overall, I feel that this is a nice, small, light saw adequate for my needs (Firewood from old floor boards, some 15x15cm cutoffs etc.) but I would buy something with more oomph if I had to choose now.

Thanks!
I find it hard to accept that poor adjustment or rapid loss of adjustment is a symptom of small engine saws.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

Thanks!
I find it hard to accept that poor adjustment or rapid loss of adjustment is a symptom of small engine saws.

Just sharing what I was told. Maybe he meant it as in, small engine = cheaper saw = more finicky carb or something. One thing that I did notice is, if you look around on youtube, this saw in many of those videos seems to have some sort of start issue lurking in one way or another. Like, the cold start does not seem to go as smooth as it should (Or I am just biased because I was looking for this issue).
Don't get me wrong, - I'm not trying to advertise this as a bad saw. other than this issue, so far it has been great value.

 

[Cedrus]

Just sharing what I was told. Maybe he meant it as in, small engine = cheaper saw = more finicky carb or something. One thing that I did notice is, if you look around on youtube, this saw in many of those videos seems to have some sort of start issue lurking in one way or another. Like, the cold start does not seem to go as smooth as it should (Or I am just biased because I was looking for this issue).
Don't get me wrong, - I'm not trying to advertise this as a bad saw. other than this issue, so far it has been great value.

I don`t think you were writing anything bad but that the serviceman's explanation was not good.
Either the parts are bad, as you wrote or the service is poor.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

I don`t think you were writing anything bad but that the serviceman's explanation was not good.
Either the parts are bad, as you wrote or the service is poor.

If I'll have to visit them for the third time with the same issue I will most likely ask about my options to get something else or straight up refund. I am tempted to try another place but then I would not have an argument that they themselves tried three times and failed.
But that's planning for a failure. Should that happen, I will make sure to post it here.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

Hello,
During the weekend, got it tested and everything seems to be alright as of now. The first 10-20 seconds after the start, there is visible smoke, but I would assume that is normal for a cold engine.
Got about 3 or 4 refuels during which, the saw stalled only once when I started it cold and I guess I took off the half-choke too soon. Other than that, it idles as it should, throttle is fast and snappy.

 

[Cedrus]

Good!
Thanks for the information

 

[svk]

Hello,
During the weekend, got it tested and everything seems to be alright as of now. The first 10-20 seconds after the start, there is visible smoke, but I would assume that is normal for a cold engine.
Got about 3 or 4 refuels during which, the saw stalled only once when I started it cold and I guess I took off the half-choke too soon. Other than that, it idles as it should, throttle is fast and snappy.

That is the way the saw should run!

Please report on the saws performance as you get more hours on it. Only a few of use own models. from that family of saws.

 

[pigeon_No_9]

Hello everyone. Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but this is a followup -
Last year finished what I bought the saw for - about 4 cubic meters of scrap materials with way too many nails in the wood. Went through like 3 chains. Then finished the last batch with engineered fuel to clean whatever pump fuel might have been left in the tank and put it away until this year and .
This spring, after about half a year of not using it, started like a charm. Now I'm almost finished with ~12 cubic meters of proper logs ranging from small 10cm diameter alder all the way to medium 35-40 cm diameter birch and pine. With the larger logs, I am hitting limit of my 14 inch bar but the saw powers through it like a champ.
Of course, it's not built with 'hard firewood all year long' in mind, and you have to be patient to not stall it while cutting, but it's been great. Carb settings have remained stable and no stalls or rew issues when idling or pushing the throttle.
To whomever this might concern, - 135 mk ii is a good saw (thus far) if you set your expectations right. 1.6kw is adequate and nothing to be ashamed of, but you wont win any competitions with this.
It goes through some gas though. but that might be either the carb settings or me losing time when cutting wood.
Cheers.

 

[Limerick firewood]

Hello,

I'm new here but seems to be a populated place, so I thought someone could have info which I'm looking for. Just bought my first chainsaw - Husqvarna 135 mk ii. I have worked with some other Husqvarna chainsaws before, and I guess I did not do my homework expecting this to perform the same as the other ones I remember. It's somewhat enough for what I am using it for but as it goes with power - you get used to it quickly and always desire more (or is it just me?). Anyways, what's done is done.
Took it out for couple test runs and first three re-fuels were just fine. Then few days later, I did the usual start routine with choke and priming but when disengaging the half-choke (Not sure if this is how it's actually called, but the state where it runs with some rews after starting it and continues to do so until throttle is pushed) and then dies. I tried to adjust the T nut, , since the saw runs alright if I keep the throttle pressed but stalls immediately or after couple of seconds I let go.
This adjustment is like trying to adjust a Swiss watch. I am not over-exaggerating, I turned the screw in increments of 1/12, tried this cycle for like 20 times at least - result is always the same. I tighten the screw for whatever I feel will have the chain running, start the saw, let it run with half-choke and push the throttle - the chain is spinning. Then I turn the screw counter-clockwise for ridiculously small amount, rew it up, give it a few seconds to get used to new carb setting and if chain is still going, - repeat. There is always one last turn (with chain still running) which results in saw stalling. I did not get the chain to stop and engine running. Idle is either too high or it stalls.
Took it to shop, they adjusted it. When I got working the next day (First run after the shop) it took about 30 minutes to start this adventure all over again. I once more tried adjusting the T nut, but with the same result.
I know it is likely related with the L screw, but Husqvarna has specifically stated (at least in manual for my saw) that this is not to be fiddled with by end user. Since it's almost new and I don't want to void my warranty, I did not touch it and took it to shop the second time.
So my question is, has anyone had this issue and can verify if the L screw would solve my issue? If so, and IF the guys in the shop won't manage to get it right the second time either, I may be tempted to try it myself.
Few videos I've seen with this saw, almost all had fishy starts and stalls and delay between the throttle and engine actually rewing up - makes me think these do not get tuned very well from the factory. I know, - you get what you pay for, which in this case is not much, but it actually remaining on, would be nice for 250 EUR.

So in the end, - I apologize for the long thread, I thank whoever takes time to read through, and I hope I made my self clear enough, as English is not my first language.
Best of luck!
Pigeon

After using 3-4 tanks if fuel in any new saw they are just run in and sometimes may need a tweak on the tuning.
I run 2 365 x-torq husqvarna saws and previous to that jonsered.

A new saw while being run in will NOT show you its full power.
I would not like to see a highly rated saw condemned due to owner/shop incompetence. Its a €250 saw. To hell with the warranty. You would have had it tuned in the same length of time it took to log in here

 

[Le0]

highly rated you say? you want to the husqvarna 135 mark-2 experience? Please, buy mine. after two 1/2 years and regular professional care, its a finicky bit. Within the first six months the brake assembly had to be re-built on warranty. Im no logger, i barely used it. but ever since then it's been the same story as pigeon's - constant attention.
"built from the bottom up" .... got it