Husqvarna 154se mods?

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Adam08ski

Adam08ski

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Guys,

I am in the process of rebuilding part by part this 154se that I bought a while back.

But whilst doing it I was wondering if there are any cylinders that fit from larger huskys, any potential muffler mods and any more up to date metal clutch covers that fit as a direct replacement?

Below is where I am at with it but now I want a better clutch cover than this darn rubbish plastic one and feel like making it more powerful (never really going to use it for much just want something interesting to do to it)

Any advice would be much appreciated, also is this saw any good??? :pingpong:

14711492_10157466694900567_4362618957159058848_o.jpg
14700772_10157466699070567_6193454056631832403_o.jpg
 
that saw is no good, you might as well send it to me at your cost......























just kidding!


the 154 is a closed port 54cc engine and it will be a great running saw with a few mods....

The muffler is one of the most restrictive of all Husqvarna pro saws, the outlet is really way too small to muffle the noise, as it is so small it chokes the engine back... it will make a huge difference without having to port the cylinder. Rebuilding the carb is also a smart move along with new fuel line and filter. c
 
rynosawr said:
that saw is no good, you might as well send it to me at your cost......

just kidding!


the 154 is a closed port 54cc engine and it will be a great running saw with a few mods....

The muffler is one of the most restrictive of all Husqvarna pro saws, the outlet is really way too small to muffle the noise, as it is so small it chokes the engine back... it will make a huge difference without having to port the cylinder. Rebuilding the carb is also a smart move along with new fuel line and filter. c
Click to expand...

Ah I have read that it is a saw that I should never get rid of, but to be honest I bought it on a whim as it was going cheap and was going to clean and sell it, never realized I would like it more than the MS260 I have no got rid of. lol

I have a new fuel line and fuel filter, spark plug (gap set to original spec), new genuine ignition coil (gap set to original spec) and new air filter.

I have re-set the carb jets and feel I have it running decent, I am assuming the muffler mod will kick all of this out again?

SO by how much should I increase the muffler outlet? Is it also a good idea to remove the muffler, template the cylinder outlet and match the muffler inlet to the cylinder outlet?

Oh and I will one day this winter rebuild the carb too :)
 
Next question for someone in the know....

I need a new piston ring as I feel the current one is a tad tired, only ones I can find on fleabay are below

Caber
45 MM DIAMETER
1.5 MM WIDTH
1.9 MM RAD

For Husqvarna 51's I believe, are these correct in fitting all the 51's 254xps and the 154se I have?
 
Another post another day.. so I have bored out the air filter outlet to match the diameter of the filter mount elbow. Maximum air flow in. Secondly I have opened out the muffler outlet to remove the ring that is welded inside the muffler outlet and opened out the louvres inside the muffler. I have just put a new caber ring on. Next thing to ask is should it sound roughly the same after tuning or should it scream a tad more. I don't seem to notice any improvement with it four stroking the same noise. Should I be leaning it out a bit. I have never modded a saw so I'm usually airing on the side of too much four stroking. Should it still be the same principal with the noise. I do not currently have a tacho and have always set my saws by sound. But now it has better flow I am all so confused. Please help!!! Thanks!
 
If more air is let in, and the muffler is more open, it is more likely that it currently is running lean - unless the carb is adjusted richer. Do a full carb adjustment, starting with the L side. A larger carb likely is a good idea, as the original has a rather small venturi.

Magnesium clutch covers were introduced on that saw family around 1996/97, but there are things to be aware of regarding fitment that I don't remember right now...

The other top ends in the family (only the 262xp one is interesting regarding power) fits on the case, but they use a longer con rod on the crank, despite the stroke is the same. I don't think they fit under the top cover either.
 
SawTroll said:
If more air is let in, and the muffler is more open, it is more likely that it currently is running lean - unless the carb is adjusted richer. Do a full carb adjustment, starting with the L side. A larger carb likely is a good idea, as the original has a rather small venturi.

Magnesium clutch covers were introduced on that saw family around 1996/97, but there are things to be aware of regarding fitment that I don't remember right now...

The other top ends in the family (only the 262xp one is interesting regarding power) fits on the case, but they use a longer con rod on the crank, despite the stroke is the same. I don't think they fit under the top cover either.
Click to expand...

Ok so here's what I did:

Re-tuned the carb, set the idle and L.. It now idles well and picks up lovely.

Regarding the H, I set it to 1 1/2 screws out as a starting point, which I believe is factory break in setting for the 154se/254XP? This seemed a little too lean so I let it out to 1 3/4. This seems to have a lot higher revs than I remember it having (it may just be a placebo effect from modding), but theory is that more air in and more air out is less restrictive so the saw will want to be higher in rpms. If I make it richer the saw 4 strokes too much and it bogs in the cut. So I am guessing I may have it OK. My only fear is that the saw now sounds too nice, but then again it might just have sounded crap before I gave it a proper tune?

I will get a new carburetor this winter, but I have no idea which one will fit the solid intake that includes the impulse in it?

Maybe I am just expecting too much from this little Husky, I am testing it in maybe 9" very green fir as its all I have unsplit, a pretty sharp but not new by any stretch chain. Maybe this is a lot to expect from it. I have tended to use my 371 for a long time now and it has never bogged on me cutting anything.

But I have got a new Oregon chain on it's way to sort that out.

Regards the chain brake cover, I have found a good second hand 254xp mag cover. Just had to cut off a locator pin at the back behind the clutch drum that the 154se crankcase does not have a hole for.
 
Adam08ski said:
....

Regards the chain brake cover, I have found a good second hand 254xp mag cover. Just had to cut off a locator pin at the back behind the clutch drum that the 154se crankcase does not have a hole for.
Click to expand...

The issue I had a vague memory of was located back there - so that sounds right. ;)

The carb I would look into first are the smaller (15mm) carb used on the 262xp, HDA-120 - and I believe the -117 and -144 are candidates as well. Check that the impulse arrangements fit though, I'm not sure.

I have never worked on those saws myself, so what I know is picked up from others that have, and have written about it.
 
This is what I do, and I love how they run. Usually 13,500 to 14,000 WOT. Much more torque than late model 50cc saws.

#1 - Muffler Mod
#2 - Match the Air Filter
#3 - Set the Squish to .018 to .022
#4 - Adjust Carburetor
#5 - Oregon Super 20 LPX, set rakers at .025 to .030, and round file sharp

My 154 and 254's all have HDA-35B carbs and seem to do fine. I have not tried a 120 on it yet, but will be doing so in the near future.
 
So I have managed to set the carb up finally. Also seems my filing skills have gone down hill as my new 21 LPX CHISEL and the now tuned saw cuts though wood like the hottest knife through silky smooth butter. I blame the file. It was cheap. Here it is all clean. Stuffed the 254xp clutch cover and starter on as they are better items in my opinion. Looks good I think :)

It is better than I ever imagined. Next to set the squish...
 

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weimedog said:
The 254 "Old Style" I cobbed together from a pile of extra parts. Build 4 for a local fella and had this junk left over...:)


Part two, assemble, tune, and run..



An earlier 245 build....bearings and cases assembled, popup piston cut.
Click to expand...

I've watched these somewhere along the line last year, not sure if it was via here or straight from youtube :) very detailed
 
Adam08ski said:
So I have managed to set the carb up finally. Also seems my filing skills have gone down hill as my new 21 LPX CHISEL and the now tuned saw cuts though wood like the hottest knife through silky smooth butter. I blame the file. It was cheap. Here it is all clean. Stuffed the 254xp clutch cover and starter on as they are better items in my opinion. Looks good I think :)

It is better than I ever imagined. Next to set the squish...
Click to expand...

21 LPX should suit that saw beautifully, but it should become even better after a filing - if done right.

This is the case with all new chain, but with Oregon the difference usually is small.
 
SawTroll said:
21 LPX should suit that saw beautifully, but it should become even better after a filing - if done right.

This is the case with all new chain, but with Oregon the difference usually is small.
Click to expand...
I have ordered a new Stihl file, I seriously recon mine is crap. I used to love a good file, but I haven't done it all summer. The old chain was also pretty worn and had hit a nail or too in it's time.
 
Adam08ski said:
I have ordered a new Stihl file, I seriously recon mine is crap. I used to love a good file, but I haven't done it all summer. The old chain was also pretty worn and had hit a nail or too in it's time.
Click to expand...

Files are consumables, and should be replaced often. Buy more than one when at it!
 
SawTroll said:
Files are consumables, and should be replaced often. Buy more than one when at it!
Click to expand...
Actually discovered last night that 'Rolson' tools make 'bendy' files leading me to believe they are softer than the chain that I was filing...
 

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