Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type

[husq2100]

No PN on the clutch. Its an Oregon drum so I guess it's been changed at some time? I have the 60mm muffler bolts. I also found the SK symbol on the piston and cylinder. Im learning a lot here.

Oregon would have supplied them back in the day for factory fitment I would think. If factory they will have a part# starting with 501 or 503. If just Oregon it will only have a 5 didget Oregon part# The saws I have are from USA, the drums that have Husqvarna part #'s are all made in "Canada" so I guess Oregon supplied them. Does your oiler have a brass drive gear?

 

[komatsuvarna]

Oregon would have supplied them back in the day for factory fitment I would think. If factory they will have a part# starting with 501 or 503. If just Oregon it will only have a 5 didget Oregon part# The saws I have are from USA, the drums that have Husqvarna part #'s are all made in "Canada" so I guess Oregon supplied them. Does your oiler have a brass drive gear?

Mine just has a 5 digit Oregon number, I had it memorized until I got back in the house :msp_rolleyes:. Yes, Brass gear drive.

 

[Joe46]

On my first 2100 my dealer modified the carb. I believe he bored the venturi, and I "think" put a welch plug in place of the gov. This was I believe around around 1979. Mine also came with the 7th mount, which I believe the very early models didn't have. Perhaps Husq2100 can verify? Appreciate all the info. I've only owned 3 so it's good to learn more about them.

 

[husq2100]

Regarding your oiler, make sure it has a steel washer that runs between the brass gear and crank seal (seal is fitted to oiler on this side on alot of Huskies). It should also have a rubber ring/seal (called a V ring) that fits to the metal insert in the clutch side face of the oiler housing, then you need a plastic seal ring to cover this. Then your rim and drum pushes through into the brass drive gear. On the case side there should be a little rubber seal for the 2 small oil points and a O ring around the main opening.

Edit: also forgot, does it have the little white plastic plug in the housing at the end of the pump shaft? if so this is a bugger to get out. I couldnt get mine out without destroying it. I am yet to find anywhere to buy them....If you look at my Husqvarna 2100 Oiler thread, you will see it talked about. Turtle gave some good info.

 

[husq2100]

On my first 2100 my dealer modified the carb. I believe he bored the venturi, and I "think" put a welch plug in place of the gov. This was I believe around around 1979. Mine also came with the 7th mount, which I believe the very early models didn't have. Perhaps Husq2100 can verify? Appreciate all the info. I've only owned 3 so it's good to learn more about them.

Looks like the 7th av mount (out front) was introduced around 1980. At the same time there was a change to the exhaust outlet on the "Jungle" type muffler.

How did that bad boy run after the carb mods? Where was this dealer located? what did you use the saw for? Does he have any NOS parts left haha :msp_w00t:

 

[komatsuvarna]

Regarding your oiler, make sure it has a steel washer that runs between the brass gear and crank seal (seal is fitted to oiler on this side on alot of Huskies). It should also have a rubber ring/seal (called a V ring) that fits to the metal insert in the clutch side face of the oiler housing, then you need a plastic seal ring to cover this. Then your rim and drum pushes through into the brass drive gear. On the case side there should be a little rubber seal for the 2 small oil points and a O ring around the main opening.

Edit: also forgot, does it have the little white plastic plug in the housing at the end of the pump shaft? if so this is a bugger to get out. I couldnt get mine out without destroying it. I am yet to find anywhere to buy them....If you look at my Husqvarna 2100 Oiler thread, you will see it talked about. Turtle gave some good info.

Ill have to check on that and see. I just tore it down today, but I can't remember all the small details. I pretty sure all that stuff is there, but Im not 100%. Ill have a good looksee in the morning.

I have a NOS tank, case and a few other parts. Im going to be swapping the crank and stuff into the NOS case. Its should be a fun build. Sounds like it's going to be interesting too lol.

 

[husq2100]

I have a NOS tank, case and a few other parts. Im going to be swapping the crank and stuff into the NOS case. Its should be a fun build. Sounds like it's going to be interesting too lol.

Tanks and cases seem to float about....its the other things, the small things that are hard to find :msp_mad: Im guessing your NOS case doesnt have any case bolts with it??? If you are using the ones from your exsisting saw, there may be a small chance they arent the right length. When you get to that point post up the part# from the NOS case and we will try and work it out. Also becareful changing over the tank vent and the manual pump stuff if these arent in the NOS tank...those bits, once again very very hard to come by.

 

[Joe46]

Looks like the 7th av mount (out front) was introduced around 1980. At the same time there was a change to the exhaust outlet on the "Jungle" type muffler.

How did that bad boy run after the carb mods? Where was this dealer located? what did you use the saw for? Does he have any NOS parts left haha :msp_w00t:

It pulled stronger in the cut. It was in Port Angeles, Wa. I cut timber on the Oympic Peninsula with it:hmm3grin2orange: Sadly he died of heart problems many years ago. He was an ex faller that got busted up pretty bad so went into sales and repair.

 

[Logger4Life]

I am pretty sure that Ed heard did get the saws that I am talking about new. But I very well could be wrong about the jungle badged saw having a thin ring piston it very well could have been a thick ring piston. We got on the subject of 2100's when I was talking to him about building a stroked 395xp with a 2100 thin ring piston that I have I actually own 1 brand new one and 2 good used thin ring 2100 slugs and and enough new rings to last awhile in a saw.
So I guess it will be a 3100xp thin ring LOL. HUSQ2100 thank you for the info.
Jay

 

[komatsuvarna]

Tanks and cases seem to float about....its the other things, the small things that are hard to find :msp_mad: Im guessing your NOS case doesnt have any case bolts with it??? If you are using the ones from your exsisting saw, there may be a small chance they arent the right length. When you get to that point post up the part# from the NOS case and we will try and work it out. Also becareful changing over the tank vent and the manual pump stuff if these arent in the NOS tank...those bits, once again very very hard to come by.

Nope, no bolts with the new case. Ill see if I can't check into it a little deeper tomorrow. I haven't looked much, but it looks like that manual oil pump stuff could be a ''trick'' to do! Is most of the parts for these saws NLA?

 

[husq2100]

I am pretty sure that Ed heard did get the saws that I am talking about new. But I very well could be wrong about the jungle badged saw having a thin ring piston it very well could have been a thick ring piston. We got on the subject of 2100's when I was talking to him about building a stroked 395xp with a 2100 thin ring piston that I have I actually own 1 brand new one and 2 good used thin ring 2100 slugs and and enough new rings to last awhile in a saw.
So I guess it will be a 3100xp thin ring LOL. HUSQ2100 thank you for the info.
Jay

or you could go the other way, put a 3120 crank in a 2100....sleeper a few guys have done it.

 

[husq2100]

Nope, no bolts with the new case. Ill see if I can't check into it a little deeper tomorrow. I haven't looked much, but it looks like that manual oil pump stuff could be a ''trick'' to do! Is most of the parts for these saws NLA?

There are a few parts still available new form places like Baileys. Gregg is currently processing an order for me. I spent the last 3 day researching part#s and imputting them into there system to see what comes up, also Gregg has done some searching for me. But there are more parts NLA than available....:msp_mad: but that is life.

If anyone has a smaller combustion chamber cylinder, some pics and measurements would be awesome. Also if there are any cylinders made by Mahle or Galardoni (spelling?)

Cheers,
Serg

 

[komatsuvarna]

There are a few parts still available new form places like Baileys. Gregg is currently processing an order for me. I spent the last 3 day researching part#s and imputting them into there system to see what comes up, also Gregg has done some searching for me. But there are more parts NLA than available....:msp_mad: but that is life.

If anyone has a smaller combustion chamber cylinder, some pics and measurements would be awesome. Also if there are any cylinders made by Mahle or Galardoni (spelling?)

Cheers,
Serg

I'd hate to try to start one if it had any smaller a combustion chamber :hmm3grin2orange:. They're pretty ruff to get turning as is.

My old case halves and the NOS case halves has the same part numbers, so the bolts should be good right? I'll probably do a thread on my build if I have the time too.

 

[husq2100]

I'd hate to try to start one if it had any smaller a combustion chamber :hmm3grin2orange:. They're pretty ruff to get turning as is.

My old case halves and the NOS case halves has the same part numbers, so the bolts should be good right? I'll probably do a thread on my build if I have the time too.

Looks like the change came in mid 1984? Husqvarna state that there is NO change in crankcase reference numbers. The bottom 2 of the 6 bolts around the oiler postion, holding the case halves together, should be 5mm longer than the others on your exsisting 1985 saw. If they are to long for your new case, you will need to source 2 shorter types, or maybe even cut down yours, if the design allows???

 

[Mo. Jim]

So this is a jungle muffler right?

Im don't know much about these model saws. Its off a 2100cd. Mine has the thick ring piston.

I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Looks like the change came in mid 1984? Husqvarna state that there is NO change in crankcase reference numbers. The bottom 2 of the 6 bolts around the oiler postion, holding the case halves together, should be 5mm longer than the others on your exsisting 1985 saw. If they are to long for your new case, you will need to source 2 shorter types, or maybe even cut down yours, if the design allows???

Im with ya. I noticed them 2 bolts was just a bit longer than ALL the other case bolts. Ill be sure to check that....If they're too long, Ill shorten them to the same length as the others.

 

[komatsuvarna]

I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.

Nope, Thats the only port on that muffler Jim.:msp_smile:

 

[husq2100]

I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.

I dont think they ever came from factory like that. I think they were either top/side exit std, or bottom/front exit "Jungle". What you may have is a modded 2101 std muffler. The 2101 standard muffler had a flat square section where the "louvre" exhaust would be fitted, the earlier 2100's did not, they just had full ribbing. So maybe someone got the std 2101 muffler and added the louver??

there have also been aftermarket mufflers available, maybe these where made like that???

 

[sachsmo]

Quack Quack

Jungle Duck?

 

[Mo. Jim]

I went and checked this muffler and it looks factory. It is missing the plate,but the indent for it is stamped in the muffler. AM? mabey,but it is a duel port This is going on a 2100 thin ring that I'm trying to get rebuilt for the Mo. gtg next month.