Husqvarna 338xpt California

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SierraMtns

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
356
Reaction score
307
Location
Shingle Sprins
I am helping out a friend and seeing if I can fix up his saw. It was acting up on his last job. Hard starting and idling fast. I got it home and put the tachometer on it and it was idling at 3,100 rpm and then would go a little higher (3,400). The clutch had not engaged. Which surprised me a little. The saw maxed out at 11,200 rpm. I can't find where these saws should be set at but 11,200 seems low.

Next I sprayed some carb cleaner over top of the carb and it stalled. So I think there is a leak with one of the hoses. My plan is to change out hoses and vacuum/pressure check the seals. I need to make some block off plates for exhaust and intake. The rubber intake boot looks good with no cracks. I doubt the carb has ever been rebuilt.

My friend doesn't use the primer bulb nipple thing at all. Can I just run the hose right to the top of the carb? This would cut out possible areas for leaks down the road.

Let the cleaning begin. I am nuts about starting with clean parts and clean area. My friend likes to make fun of me on how clean I keep my saws.

Bypass primer bulb nipple?

IMG_2204.JPG


IMG_1030.JPG IMG_1041.JPG IMG_1043.JPG IMG_1047.JPG IMG_1048.JPG
 
Beast Master has experience with the 338.
I have a 339. Same saw except rear grip. I used a 338 for a couple months several years ago. Both it and my 339 exhibited the same symptoms as you described.
I suspected that the primer bulb may have been part of the cause . Perhaps the whole cause.
If you do figure out how to get the engine out of the outer shell. PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
The oiler went out on my 339 and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out so I can get at the oiler.
 
Beast Master has experience with the 338.
I have a 339. Same saw except rear grip. I used a 338 for a couple months several years ago. Both it and my 339 exhibited the same symptoms as you described.
I suspected that the primer bulb may have been part of the cause . Perhaps the whole cause.
If you do figure out how to get the engine out of the outer shell. PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
The oiler went out on my 339 and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out so I can get at the oiler.


I wonder if the 339 and 338 have the same oil pump?

 
I'm sure they do. As the 338 that I used had the oiler go out on it also. Drum driven /nylon / ? , Oiler gear was still OK so I believe it is the actual pump or lines.
Thanks for the vid. I would like to find a vid that shows how to get the engine out of the shell.
 
those pumps are known to wreck the pump shaft if you back out the screw too far looking for more oil if i remember right. i dont see why you couldnt bypass the purge bulb system, as u said, reduce number of leak points.
 
One of the last Husqvarna saws I have dealt with. I have worked on chainsaws for over fifty years and the 338xpt is one of the most difficult saws I have ever dealt with. I took one on trade and it had a cracked piston--(making noise). I discovered the California edition was a different animal!
Piston cost nearly 100.00 where the regular 338 cost about 40.00, to my memory. I talked to factory rep and he knew NOTHING about the 338 !
To change oil pump, you either remove the powerhead from case or remove clamshell cap!
And one more thing--crank bearings are sealed for life.
 
One of the last Husqvarna saws I have dealt with. I have worked on chainsaws for over fifty years and the 338xpt is one of the most difficult saws I have ever dealt with. I took one on trade and it had a cracked piston--(making noise). I discovered the California edition was a different animal!
Piston cost nearly 100.00 where the regular 338 cost about 40.00, to my memory. I talked to factory rep and he knew NOTHING about the 338 !
To change oil pump, you either remove the powerhead from case or remove clamshell cap!
And one more thing--crank bearings are sealed for life.

I found this little saw fun to work on. :D It taught me patients.

Our local dealer was impressed that I was even tempting to fix this saw up.
 
Update:

The following parts where replaced. I thought about deleting the primer bulb but not knowing if it would work I just replaced the hoses and bulb. Tested the compression after putting the saw back together and its 161 psi. I was supers it was that high.

1. Intel fuel hose
2. Return fuel hose
3. Primer bulb
4. Fuel filter
5. NGK spark plug
6. Impulse hose

Also, I deleted the auto decomp. Not sure what Husqvarna was thinking when they did that? Seems like a major area for a air leaks. I wanted to replace the carb gaskets but our local dealer didn't have any kits in stock. So that part is on order. Saw is up and running but not idle the smoothest (I'm very picky). This saw did not tune super easy like my other saws. Not sure if its because it has a Zama carb or just needs a rebuilt. My friend informed me that the carb has never been rebuilt. I asked him how many hours are on this saw. He responded with "hundreds and hundreds of hours". He ran a full time tree business for 6 years with this saw. I did notice the saw wanted more fuel. I learned a lot working on this saw.

IMG_1049.JPG
 
The Cali intake boot has a metal flange that bolts to the cylinder. I have had two of those boots develop a tear at the flange, causing fits with idling and dying when the saw is bumped, due to air flooding the intake downstream of the carb. I finally got a new $$$ boot installed gently, and it's been fine since. 338 & 339 are a total pain but worth it if you can get em dialed in.
 
Back
Top