I don't run any .325chain but 3/8s you can change how it cuts a lot by playing with how high you hold the file on the tooth. The higher you hold it the less hook you get. It will cut a little bit slower but will stay sharp a little longer. You can get too low and it will have a lot of hook but can be grabby and dull quicker.
Husqvarna 346XP Chain
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SawTroll
Information Collector
The same is true with .325, and the file diameter also makes a differense.
I am not a fan of 3/8" chain on 50cc saws, but the differense in cutting speed is minor on the 346xp and 5100S. I assume the differense is larger on weaker saws.....
My local dealer has RSC on a spool, most generally do. I just have them make me a few 66 link loops for about $13 each, cheaper than buying it packaged.
sunfish
Fish Head
$13 is a great price. My dealer has loops already made for $15.
The Count
Addicted to ArboristSite
lots of choices;
As I started, and I am still a noob for the next 5 years I guess, I learned that thiner cuts faster and the thicker is stronger. being as I have said, a novice, few seconds overall is nothing if in the end I bend the bar. LOL. That actually happened to me.
If I`m wrong let me know so I can rectify that.
As I started, and I am still a noob for the next 5 years I guess, I learned that thiner cuts faster and the thicker is stronger. being as I have said, a novice, few seconds overall is nothing if in the end I bend the bar. LOL. That actually happened to me.
If I`m wrong let me know so I can rectify that.
SawTroll
Information Collector
A narrower kerf will generally mean faster cutting, but only if everything else is the same (or better) - often it isn't......
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Thats pretty good. I dont know if My dealer makes his own or not, but seems like I used to give about $23 for a stihl chain to fit a 16'' ms250, and that was a year and a half ago. I HAD to have a chain a couple months for the 372 with a 20'' bar. I got a loop of LPX and it was $35.00. I bout **** my pants, but I had to have it. I understand a man has to make a living, but that way to high. I havent been back since.
I was looking at the chain today on the 346 and it is stamped Oregon with a small 25 on it. The bar shows .325 and 050 and I counted 33 cutters (or whatever they're called). Can someone tell me exactly what chain this is (semi chisel, drive link number, etc. ?) and exactly which one (part no.) I can order from Baileys please.
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komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
The 25 stamped on the cutter dont mean much. Pull the chain up and look to see whats stamped on the drive link.
FWIW, my 346 has a 16'' NK bar and chain. .325 and .050. It has the 25 stamped on the cutter as well, but that 25 doesnt tell anything about the chain, although yours is probably the same as mine. H30 is the same as oregon 95vp and both are Narrow kerf.
FWIW, my 346 has a 16'' NK bar and chain. .325 and .050. It has the 25 stamped on the cutter as well, but that 25 doesnt tell anything about the chain, although yours is probably the same as mine. H30 is the same as oregon 95vp and both are Narrow kerf.
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komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Also, Look on your bar right under where it says .050/ 1.3mm and see if has a circle with what looks like a neck on a rifle cartridge in the middle of the circle. If it does it means you have the narrow kerf bar.
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
It does have a narrow kerf bar then, so you can run either narrow kerf chain, or regular chain.
PN) ORF 95VP66 is the narrow kerf semi chisel chain
PN) ORF 20BPX66 is the regular kerf semi chisel chain
PN) ORF 20LPX66 is the regular kerf chisel chain.
All these is oregon chains in .325 and .050 to fit a 16'' bar with 66 drive links.
PN) ORF 95VP66 is the narrow kerf semi chisel chain
PN) ORF 20BPX66 is the regular kerf semi chisel chain
PN) ORF 20LPX66 is the regular kerf chisel chain.
All these is oregon chains in .325 and .050 to fit a 16'' bar with 66 drive links.
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komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
I guess it really depends on what you cut. The LPX will be the fastest. The semi chisels will last a little longer overall, last longer between sharpenings and works better for dirty wood.JMO
Look at the cutters on your chain from the end of the bar. If the outside corner looks like the number 7, its chisel chain(LPX). If the corner is rounded instead of a square corner its semi chisel, which with the 20 on the drive link would be the BPX.
If it were me Id go with the LPX. If you want semi chisel Id go with the narrow kerf semi chisel since you have the NK bar which would be the 95VP.
Hope I havent confused you, cause it can be confusing.
Look at the cutters on your chain from the end of the bar. If the outside corner looks like the number 7, its chisel chain(LPX). If the corner is rounded instead of a square corner its semi chisel, which with the 20 on the drive link would be the BPX.
If it were me Id go with the LPX. If you want semi chisel Id go with the narrow kerf semi chisel since you have the NK bar which would be the 95VP.
Hope I havent confused you, cause it can be confusing.
I do cut dirty wood and have to admit that the chain thats on there now has been excellent. Would I need the one with 66 drive links, I see there is one with 67 also? If your telling me the saw probably has the Oregon 95vp on it then I may just order a couple of them since its been a great chain so far.
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
It probably is the H30/95VP. You can check it out with your dealer and confirm it. While you are there, purchase one of the roller sharpening kits that is built for the H30/95VP chain. There will be the roller guide which will position your file for you. There will also be a progressive raker guide, plus the files you need.
You can start learning the fine art of chain filing. After you make enough mistakes and finally get the hang of sharpening, the fun factor goes right up.
You can start learning the fine art of chain filing. After you make enough mistakes and finally get the hang of sharpening, the fun factor goes right up.
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
Personally, I would go with stihl rsc, then the woodland pro and as a last resort oregon. In my cutting conditions the oregon gives me the shortest service lenght.
Seems soft and seems to dull easier. I will only use the oregon as a last resort.
Seems soft and seems to dull easier. I will only use the oregon as a last resort.
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's several 'secrets' to filing. Look for 'glint' on the leading edge of the cutter. 'Glint' indicates that the cutter is dull, it is what happens when the light can reflect off the surface of the cutter.
Take a look at a knife blade. A dull blade will reflect light off the rounded dull edge, on a sharp blade the light reflects off either side of the edge and there is no reflection. You will find the same phenomena on the edge of the cutter. Remove the glint, and the chain is now sharp again.
There is also a trick to using the roller guide. You do not want any metal under the file, you want the file to move across the rollers without interference with metal below it. You will likely have to 'clean out the gullet' by removing the metal between the cutter and the raker. This will also give you more 'chip clearance'.
After you have mastered how to sharpen the cutter, you can try different diameter files to use on the roller guide. A smaller file will give you more 'hook'.
The progressive raker depth guage is quite good, there will be two settings on it 'soft' and 'hardwood'. The notch for softwood will give you a more aggressive cutting angle. I have two progressive guages, one of which I modified to give me a wider choice of angles to choose from.
Good luck
Take a look at a knife blade. A dull blade will reflect light off the rounded dull edge, on a sharp blade the light reflects off either side of the edge and there is no reflection. You will find the same phenomena on the edge of the cutter. Remove the glint, and the chain is now sharp again.
There is also a trick to using the roller guide. You do not want any metal under the file, you want the file to move across the rollers without interference with metal below it. You will likely have to 'clean out the gullet' by removing the metal between the cutter and the raker. This will also give you more 'chip clearance'.
After you have mastered how to sharpen the cutter, you can try different diameter files to use on the roller guide. A smaller file will give you more 'hook'.
The progressive raker depth guage is quite good, there will be two settings on it 'soft' and 'hardwood'. The notch for softwood will give you a more aggressive cutting angle. I have two progressive guages, one of which I modified to give me a wider choice of angles to choose from.
Good luck
