Husqvarna 41 won't run again after re-fill

[Billy Jack]

My dad's 41 was used a few days ago and ran fine until the tank was empty. He re-filled it and it refused to run afterwards, except for a few seconds with the choke set.
I looked it over; good spark, fuel, compression, air filter, no fuel line issues. I took the carb apart and cleaned it. A few bits of trash but, overall, nothing significant. Checked tank and it was clean. Fuel filter okay, but even tried to start it with only the fuel line in the gas tank - sans filter. No dice. Tried the gas cap tighter/less tight. No difference.
Using Sea Foam spray, it would fire and run until the Sea Foam was depleted from the carb, then it would starve and cut off. The fuel line appears to be pulling fuel, but the carb isn't getting any to the cylinder. I cleaned all orifices and journals in the carb and nothing appeared damaged. This saw is NOT abused at all. I'm thinking about just getting a rebuild kit for the carb, but wnat to make sure I'm not missing something.

Any advice?

 

[zogger]

Vent?

My dad's 41 was used a few days ago and ran fine until the tank was empty. He re-filled it and it refused to run afterwards, except for a few seconds with the choke set.
I looked it over; good spark, fuel, compression, air filter, no fuel line issues. I took the carb apart and cleaned it. A few bits of trash but, overall, nothing significant. Checked tank and it was clean. Fuel filter okay, but even tried to start it with only the fuel line in the gas tank - sans filter. No dice. Tried the gas cap tighter/less tight. No difference.
Using Sea Foam spray, it would fire and run until the Sea Foam was depleted from the carb, then it would starve and cut off. The fuel line appears to be pulling fuel, but the carb isn't getting any to the cylinder. I cleaned all orifices and journals in the carb and nothing appeared damaged. This saw is NOT abused at all. I'm thinking about just getting a rebuild kit for the carb, but wnat to make sure I'm not missing something.

Any advice?

fuel tank vent OK? Not familiar with that saw at all. I was using a 55 that if the little vent filter got the least bit of crap in it it would not restart. Same deal, if running, work well, run the tank out, refill, no start. Was a puzzler until I got turned onto that little vent filter thing. Little tiny plastic thing that slips in the end of the vent pipe. Maybe your saw has one, have to find your IPL and look. They cost like fifty cents. Of course I read you tried it with the cap loose, so don't know there. Carb kit can't hurt. Just on general principles maybe the inlet needle/orifice is blocked with some particle. How is the diaphragm? And really check the fuel line, it appears the least almost invisible little crack is enough to make saws not work in a lot of cases. Again, cheap parts, fairly easy for the swap (at least ones I have done).

You said you had some little dirt you found in the carb, and it appears to be pulling, so whut the heck, a full tear apart and good cleaning, including pulling the welch plugs and cleaning and replacement, with the carb kit would most likely work. As long as you are gojng that far, do the fuel lines and filter to. Not much more loot for the parts, and will give you peace of mind at least.

Isn't that a fairly old saw now? All original stuff in it? Proly due for a good once over anyway, top to bottom.

 

[Billy Jack]

fuel tank vent OK? Not familiar with that saw at all. I was using a 55 that if the little vent filter got the least bit of crap in it it would not restart. Same deal, if running, work well, run the tank out, refill, no start. Was a puzzler until I got turned onto that little vent filter thing. Little tiny plastic thing that slips in the end of the vent pipe. Maybe your saw has one, have to find your IPL and look. They cost like fifty cents. Of course I read you tried it with the cap loose, so don't know there. Carb kit can't hurt. Just on general principles maybe the inlet needle/orifice is blocked with some particle. How is the diaphragm? And really check the fuel line, it appears the least almost invisible little crack is enough to make saws not work in a lot of cases. Again, cheap parts, fairly easy for the swap (at least ones I have done).

You said you had some little dirt you found in the carb, and it appears to be pulling, so whut the heck, a full tear apart and good cleaning, including pulling the welch plugs and cleaning and replacement, with the carb kit would most likely work. As long as you are gojng that far, do the fuel lines and filter to. Not much more loot for the parts, and will give you peace of mind at least.

Isn't that a fairly old saw now? All original stuff in it? Proly due for a good once over anyway, top to bottom.

Thanks for the info and I've tried most all of it. It is a fairly old saw, but used very little. In the last year or so, I changed the fuel line and filter for my dad. While I was at it, I cleaned the carburetor, and basically made it grease/gunk free. I sharpened the chain, tuned it, and set the rpms on it. The saw was running fine until Saturday when he ran it our of gas. It just refuses to run now.

 

[Roofgunner]

41

I have a 36, which I think is basically the same saw except the 41 is more powerful. Sometimes, after you say it ran with the choke on for a few seconds, I would close the choke, and hold the throttle wide open to see if it was flooded. If it won't start with the choke, without the choke, or after you've pulled it with the throttle open check to see if the plug is damp with gas. If it isn't you could put a tsp. of gas in the cyl, reinstall the plug and see if it starts. You also may be able to observe if gas is being drawn into the fuel line. If it isn't I'd rebuild the carb and also replace seal in the orfice that transmittes engine vacuum to the carb to pump the diaphram that pulls the fuel into the carb. If the saw sat along time or if that carb has never been rebuilt if probably needs it.

 

[Billy Jack]

I have a 36, which I think is basically the same saw except the 41 is more powerful. Sometimes, after you say it ran with the choke on for a few seconds, I would close the choke, and hold the throttle wide open to see if it was flooded. If it won't start with the choke, without the choke, or after you've pulled it with the throttle open check to see if the plug is damp with gas. If it isn't you could put a tsp. of gas in the cyl, reinstall the plug and see if it starts. You also may be able to observe if gas is being drawn into the fuel line. If it isn't I'd rebuild the carb and also replace seal in the orfice that transmittes engine vacuum to the carb to pump the diaphram that pulls the fuel into the carb. If the saw sat along time or if that carb has never been rebuilt if probably needs it.

I'm thinking the diaphragm has given up the ghost. I'll get a re-build kit as it seems to be the most likely solution.

 

[sefh3]

Time for a carb kit. Most likely sucked up something when the tank got low.

 

[Billy Jack]

Well, I found the tank vent which only amounted to that hard "plastic-like" seal at the top of the tank and put a small screw in it. At the same time, I replaced the fuel line with a slightly smaller inner-diameter. It cranked up and ran rather rich at WOT. Set the L and H and it runs fine now. WOT is set at 12,100 rpm, down a bit from the 12,900 it would max out at. Seems to run fine now for a small saw.

 

[J.W Younger]

I'm guessin you have a weak pump or weak impulse signal.
Opps forgot that saw has a primer bulb so if its working you can't blame it on just an empty line caused by running out of fuel. Nevermind, I'm shutting up now.

 

[Axlerod74]

I'm guessin you have a weak pump or weak impulse signal.
Opps forgot that saw has a primer bulb so if its working you can't blame it on just an empty line caused by running out of fuel. Nevermind, I'm shutting up now.

These saws do not have a primer bulb and mine always took a few pulls to get gas up into the carb. Once warm, one pull all day long.

 

[Chris-PA]

With my 142 the instructions for cold start are to put on the choke and give it 5 quick pulls - it always starts on the 6th. Hot I pull out the choke to set the throttle and then push it in again. Usually starts on the first pull.

 

[J.W Younger]

These saws do not have a primer bulb and mine always took a few pulls to get gas up into the carb. Once warm, one pull all day long.

Ok, the weak pumps still on the table. The pump diaphram is a very thin membrane with a flapper valve. Make sure its flexible and the orifice under the flapper is open/flapper sealing an stuff. On the bottom you have the metering diaphram, under it is the metering needle, lever and spring. The spring under the lever holds the needle in the closed position, when the diaphram and cover is installed the diaphram will open the needle when it is in the relaxed position. Once a certain amount of fuel is pulled in the diaphram is pushed back and the needle is closed by the spring under the lever. Works sorta like a float set up in a 4 stroke but with less volume and in any position. If all thats up to snuff then you prolly got a stoppage somewhere in the low speed circut.

 

[mattinky]

One other thing you might want to check is the impulse tube, it's on the back side of the plastic plate in front of the carburetor. It has a "tit" that slides into the impulse port on the cylinder, this is sealed with a short piece of tubing... I've seen these split/rot and you lose impulse to the carburetor. You can buy them from a dealer but I've made them myself from fuel line several times. It's part# 505 31 07-51 in this diagram: Parts and Diagrams for Husqvarna 41 (1991-06)

*edit - Oops, I see Roofgunner already mentioned this..

 

[J.W Younger]

Well, I found the tank vent which only amounted to that hard "plastic-like" seal at the top of the tank and put a small screw in it. At the same time, I replaced the fuel line with a slightly smaller inner-diameter. It cranked up and ran rather rich at WOT. Set the L and H and it runs fine now. WOT is set at 12,100 rpm, down a bit from the 12,900 it would max out at. Seems to run fine now for a small saw.

Sorry, I missed this when I made my long ramblin post, cool beans, glad you got it goin. May be gitin close for a new ring if its down 800. Have you done a compression ck?

 

[Billy Jack]

One other thing you might want to check is the impulse tube, it's on the back side of the plastic plate in front of the carburetor. It has a "tit" that slides into the impulse port on the cylinder, this is sealed with a short piece of tubing... I've seen these split/rot and you lose impulse to the carburetor. You can buy them from a dealer but I've made them myself from fuel line several times. It's part# 505 31 07-51 in this diagram: Parts and Diagrams for Husqvarna 41 (1991-06)

*edit - Oops, I see Roofgunner already mentioned this..

I swear I never saw that part when I took the carb off. I thought it just had a gasket on the cylinder port area. In any event, it runs fine now.

 

[Billy Jack]

Sorry, I missed this when I made my long ramblin post, cool beans, glad you got it goin. May be gitin close for a new ring if its down 800. Have you done a compression ck?

I appreciate the advice. No, compression is fine. I purposely tuned it down those 800 rpm for a bit of longevity in such a small saw.

 

[scottr]

I swear I never saw that part when I took the carb off. I thought it just had a gasket on the cylinder port area. In any event, it runs fine now.

The 'tit' that Mattinky is talking about is behind the bracket/adapter that is behind the carb gasket.

 

[Billy Jack]

The 'tit' that Mattinky is talking about is behind the bracket/adapter that is behind the carb gasket.

Okay, thanks. I just didn't explore past the gasket. I guess since it ain't [apparently] broke, I won't fix it for now!

 

[Billy Jack]

Turned out to be a slight tear in the fuel line at the carburetor inlet. Fixed it, adjusted the low setting, and cut some small stuff down. Cut fine....for a 41cc. The original "safety" chain is about done with re-sharpenings. Thinking about replacing it with the Oregon 20BPX.

 

[Ryan A]

Old thread and the search function paid off but I saved a LOT of headache when I read this post and found part of my problem with the impulse tube

 

[Wood Doctor]

I ran into this with my friend's Husky 41, and the same cure worked. He runs a 41, a 350, and a 353, all with 18" bars. Hard to believe that all three will pull the same B/C combo, but they do. Thanks, Ryan A, for digging this old thread up.