Husqvarna 44 Muffler mod?
- Thread starter Gareth83
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What's the inside diameter of the new muffler outlet pipe ?
i drew around the muffler gasket on graph paper and I get 2.375cm2
80% = 1.9cm2
85% = 2.02cm2
Existing hole is roughly between 1 and 1.1cm diameter as not completely round this gives exit area of between 0.79 and 0.95cm2, lets's just say 0.87cm2 for arguments sake.
If we aim inbetween 80 and 85% say 1.95cm2 then I need to drill a hole with an area of 1.08cm2
Therfore I'm guessing I need a hole that has a diameter of between 1.1 and 1.2cm
I'll stick with 1.1 to err on the side of caution which is more or less the same as original as you originally said lol
I will drill this on the top surface say right in the middle of the front panel. or maybe even drill a few smaller ones? What about even just a slit on the side lol?
80% = 1.9cm2
85% = 2.02cm2
Existing hole is roughly between 1 and 1.1cm diameter as not completely round this gives exit area of between 0.79 and 0.95cm2, lets's just say 0.87cm2 for arguments sake.
If we aim inbetween 80 and 85% say 1.95cm2 then I need to drill a hole with an area of 1.08cm2
Therfore I'm guessing I need a hole that has a diameter of between 1.1 and 1.2cm
I'll stick with 1.1 to err on the side of caution which is more or less the same as original as you originally said lol
I will drill this on the top surface say right in the middle of the front panel. or maybe even drill a few smaller ones? What about even just a slit on the side lol?
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
The inner baffle is what holds this muffler together, not the lip on the outer edge. If you slice the inner baffle in half, the outer shell will slide right out of the backshell. The lip on the outside is there so they don't have to weld it at the factory. It just keeps the gasses from leaking out the seam. Try it on the muffler you opened up. If you cut that baffle tube, the thing will almost fall into the two halves. Once inside, then you have to make new standoff pieces to keep the muff from crushing, as that is part of the function of the baffle tube.
I think you are confusing this with the previous muffler. This one is indeed welded up around the lip on the outside which will need slitting to open up.
It seems too much hard work.
I will just drill an additional 11mm hole or 3 x 6.5mm holes in the shape of a triangle
It seems too much hard work.
I will just drill an additional 11mm hole or 3 x 6.5mm holes in the shape of a triangle
Gareth, the 80% - 85% area rule is exhaust port measured at the cylinder wall not at the cylinder/muffler area. I don't know why you keep wanting to drill a vertical hole in the top of your muffler. Do you want to sendum smoke signals?
now you've confused me lol. The area at the cylinder wall is the same size as the muffler gasket...? Can yo show me a pic of a cylinder wall? Reason for drilling vertically is due to strength, the location you propose is right on the corner. Smoke would hardly be an issue surely?
I didn't try to confuse you and I don't have a cylinder wall picture. A lot of newer saws have a larger muffler flange than cylinder/exhaust port area. I think I see how your muffler is held together. The outlet flange is crimped on the silencer pipe. I'd bet if you carefully filed down the outlet to below the crimp area it would slide apart. Then you could remove the silencer and increase the diameter of the outlet. The other muffler looked different. Does the baffle or some call it a diffuser look the same as the old muffler ?
without cutting it open again I would be unable to remove the silencer. i don't really wish to cut a brand new muffler open as I'd have to pay to have it welded up as I don't have the facilities.
This is why I thought capping the existing exit off and porting a new hole say 16mm would bypass the silencer. The only place for this is at the top or at the front. I'm guessing it would then need a screen though?
The diffuser looks exactly the same as the last and the muffler gasket mates up exactly to the exhaust port
stihlhead
ArboristSite Operative
You may be overthinking this whole process and making it harder than it is.
Plus, every mod is going to need some work, they are not simple drill and run projects. Modding requires some elbow grease and they do get easier with practice.
Plus, every mod is going to need some work, they are not simple drill and run projects. Modding requires some elbow grease and they do get easier with practice.
Many mufflers are pressed together without being welded. Are you saying that you know for a fact that the front of your muffler is welded to the back?
yes, I have the old muffler cut open sat infront of me and it is indeed welded
Yes, I understand that the old muffler was welded but I'm asking about the new muffler. It looks just like the Husqvarna muffler I have where the front half is pressed into the back half. If you were to take a thin piece of metal and slide it between the seam of the front half and back half it would tell you if it were welded. I don't think that you can look at it and know.
It's welded, trust me ;-)
it's the bottom design which is shown as a complete unit
That does't mean that it is welded it means that you can't easily separate it and buy the internal parts. Did you try what I suggested or are you reluctant to put the sweat equity into a muffler mod ?
woodyman
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you don't care about spark screens or how it looks you could just drill a hole in the front.I did this before I welded on my pipe an welded up the hole.
Gareth, can you tell me specifically where your new muffler is welded and how you determined that it is welded ?
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