Husqy 262xpg mods

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Luuk Cornelissen

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 10, 2018
Messages
31
Reaction score
27
Location
Holland
Hello people, im from Holland and im new on this forum so please correct me if im doing something wrong. My English is not very good so sorry for that.
Now my question, i bought a 262xpg that had a siezed piston/cilinder. I did rebuild it almost completely, new bearings seals etc. But the cilinder is on its way so nothing to do in mean time. I was thinking of modding the muffler and polish the cilinderports. I did read something on this forum about muffler mods but it isnt all clear to me yet. I have this muffler with a small pipe not the one with the spark screen. Enyone on this forum that has done a mod like this? And is it worth the efford?
Regards Luuk cornelissen
 
I put a brand new 24" bar and chain on it. Semi chisel i know it is large for the saw but it looks so good, cilinder comes today im thinkig of only polishing it and maybe making the exhaust port a little bit higher. The cilinder gasket is 1mm and im thinging of getting e few hairs off of the bottom of the cilinder for better squish. Someone here with some experience? I would like to get some extra power out of it.
 
One of the easier muff mods.

2 different types of deflectors, one is screwed on and one is welded to the can.

With the screw on, remove it, open the area under and put back on. On the other, grind the opening under it bigger through the front.

Fold the teeth on the deflector parallel with the muffler axis. Leave the inner ones folded and trim the others off with a tin snips. Sand the sharp edge you leave.

Eliminate the base gasket. There are 2, see what squish you get and make a custom gasket so it’s around .020.

Pull the flywheel and grind half of the keyway out. Put back on, rotate as far counter clockwise as you can against files key, and torque nut to 26 ft/lbs.

The 87 carb is helpful, but not 100% needed. If you can’t get one, you can convert a 198 to a 87 by adding the 120 parts to it. Takes and hour or 2. I’ve done a few.

The ones I’ve done were fully “ported”, meaning the ports were widened, the squish band and base were cut, and the muff was modded. I did the 198 conversion when an 87 was net available.

They are a great runner.






 
Thank you for your answer. First of all i dont have the muffler with a screen at all, i have the mufller with the small axhaust pipe in te link below you van see what i mean. It is not a 262 muffler in the link but the style is the same.
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Husqvarna-394-395-XP-replacement-muffler-p/h90396.htm

What i did is i drilled a 8mm hole above the pipe and a few holes inside the muffler wall

I dont know yet how to insert pictures it fails everytime.
Do you think the base gasket can be lowered so much?, i have some gasket material left but i dont know if that material can be used for basegaskets.
I dont think i will put the cilinder on the lathe although i have te possibility to machine it. Carburator is an option but i dont think my saw is going to run that fast i need one. Maby ill use the old cilinder to practice and once it is done i will get te aftermarket from the saw to turn its base down. Other oprion is (i saw on youtube) milling the bottom of the crankcase down half a millimeter or something. (Yes millimeters om from europe) i dont understand the **** about inches im sorry.
One question left. How do i know what squish i have? Can yuu measure hat with a special tool?
Thanks a lot
 
You can add adhesive sand paper to old piston and sand the band. Then clean outer edge up with a wood file. Yes, I’m serious.

I can’t insert pics either. Something is wrong with the site.

Use .6mm solder. Clamp jug down over piston onto case. No ring needed.

Make sure it’s rotating freely by hand first.

Turn solder at right angle so it sits over pin, you won’t get a piston rocking error that way.

Fold over fins outside and hold in place that way.

Turn crank nut with a drill at medium speed for 30 secs. Remove solder and measure crushed area with a mic or caliper.
 
Back
Top