Huztl MS660

[Mattyo]

if I was to produce these, it may indeed be easier to use nuts and weld them on... BUT... on a 372, you still need to rebate the inside of the threaded rod because the threaded part of the PTO side is further down on the crank ... (needle bearing, washer and eclip sit further out) ... so the crank has to go into the threaded rod about an inch before the threads can engage. I assume cranks of other species are this way as well as long as there is an inboard clutch....

so I need to drill down into the threaded rod anyway.

i like my mig a lot btw... but there are a lot of guys buying the 660 kit right now, and I'd like to have an easy solution that doesn't require a lot of tooling... but its a little more elegant than just using hot/cold and case screws.

 

[Johnnybar]

if I was to produce these, it may indeed be easier to use nuts and weld them on... BUT... on a 372, you still need to rebate the inside of the threaded rod because the threaded part of the PTO side is further down on the crank ... (needle bearing, washer and eclip sit further out) ... so the crank has to go into the threaded rod about an inch before the threads can engage. I assume cranks of other species are this way as well as long as there is an inboard clutch....

so I need to drill down into the threaded rod anyway.

i like my mig a lot btw... but there are a lot of guys buying the 660 kit right now, and I'd like to have an easy solution that doesn't require a lot of tooling... but its a little more elegant than just using hot/cold and case screws.

Maybe a short piece of tubing between the nut and rod could be another option for those that don't have the special tap. Too bad we are not neighbors...we could bum tools off each other!

 

[Mattyo]

Yep...metal tube would work as a spacer...but this sort of thing starts to get quite a bit more complex...

Add to this that m14x1.25 nuts don't exist on ebay in left hand form. ...so ya really need the special tap.

 

[Mattyo]

Ok, OEM parts...just went down the street to the Stihl dealer...

crankcase gasket, 2 oem seals, impulse line and fuel line, intake manifold... $95.

 

[davhul]

I got all that for $72. Are they normally high?

 

[Johnnybar]

I got all that for $72. Are they normally high?

wow, AM on ebay is way cheaper

 

[davhul]

He's probably trying to get away from the AM rubber. $72 is what we sell that oem for

 

[Johnnybar]

Yep...metal tube would work as a spacer...but this sort of thing starts to get quite a bit more complex...

Add to this that m14x1.25 nuts don't exist on ebay in left hand form. ...so ya really need the special tap.

The center hub from a old clutch will fill the spot in a pinch. Any shop will have throw aways laying around or new AM is around $3.

 

[Johnnybar]

He's probably trying to get away from the AM rubber. $72 is what we sell that oem for

I think I'm sticking to OEM to see how it goes at those prices. I'm not making a living with my 660 and I have plenty of time on my hands so the decision is easy. I think weim' recently built some all AM saws to test durability so I'll eventually add to his findings.

 

[Johnnybar]

Ordered my kit on 2-13 and no info yet. They stated that the communication system with shipping is down 3 days ago so I asked again today and specifically requested a carrier and tracking number so I can be home when it arrives...don't want any sticky fingers to help it leave my front porch if I'm not here.

 

[Mattyo]

according to DD ... here is the proper kit for gaskets, and it may be cheaper to get the whole kit than the individual gaskets...

btw, the intake boot is $40 by itself..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS660...726601?hash=item4ae55e0f09:g:KIwAAOSweW5U6KGo

 

[davhul]

The old 064 and 066 was different. Different dealers have different prices. That boot is $29.99 here

 

[Johnnybar]

according to DD ... here is the proper kit for gaskets, and it may be cheaper to get the whole kit than the individual gaskets...

btw, the intake boot is $40 by itself..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS660...726601?hash=item4ae55e0f09:g:KIwAAOSweW5U6KGo

Any chance you have a scanner on your printer so you can scan a pic of the heat shield? I have foiled glass tape to fabricate one and a pic would simplify the task.

 

[Antarctica]

Well, if I were starting a new thread not this, I'd title it Huztl Buzzkill...

After seeing this thread and a few others around the web I ordered the 660 kit a few weeks ago. It arrived about a week ago just before I headed out of town - shipping was faster than I expected. I finally got a chance to start going through it today and inspecting some parts.

I did some tolerance stackup checks on the crank and crankcases, which I think indicates I need to push one of the bearings - I'll get into that in just a bit.

The real problem I encountered is that the half of my crankcase that the six bolts thread into seems to not be tapped for those holes. See attached pics...


Another hole...


All six are untapped, although some look like 'something' (not the right tap for sure) has been down them. Maybe the tool broke and they had no tool breakage detection on the machining center? Am I missing something? I looked at a few video's of others' builds, and theirs are definitely tapped...

Pretty bummed as I was ready to get into this. Now I'll either have to tap them myself (which I shouldn't have to do) or wait for a new case half (I guess I'll start to experience what kind of customer support they really have). Has anyone else seen this?

As far as the crank and cases tolerance stackup, I made the following measurements:

Crank lobe machined shoulder to machined shoulder - 1.293

Depth of one case to bearing - 0.136
Depth of other case to bearing - 1.119
Gasket thickness - 0.020

So, the total bearing to bearing distance - 1.275

Which means its about 0.015 too narrow for the crank shoulders. Granted, pushing it all together will probably result in one of the bearing s moving anyway, but it seems like an opportunity for undue side load pressure on the crank bearings...

Thoughts? Ignore it? push one bearing back a bit?

 

[Mattyo]

not an expert here, but sometimes the clutch side bearing needs to be seated to a particular depth, and usually the flywheel side is buried or minimum flush.

btw, i'm taking notes from lots of guys here and gonna put it in my vids one way or another...

 

[Johnnybar]

Looks like you also have some casting porosity in that second pic...unless that is an image ghost some 1184 or equivalent will be required. Did you try a case bolt in the holes to verify that it wasn't drilled oversize vs untapped?

 

[Johnnybar]

Anyone have a clue what this means as far as ship progress? Is "forwarder" the carrier such as DHL or FedX?

Dear Sir，
Thanks for your message.
Your order had already been sent out to our forwarder.
And they will provide the tracking number later.
Our order processing system met some problems, so we cannot update the shipping status in time. Really sorry for this problem.

Best regards,
Evie

 

[jackjcc]

Anyone have a clue what this means as far as ship progress? Is "forwarder" the carrier such as DHL or FedX?

Dear Sir，
Thanks for your message.
Your order had already been sent out to our forwarder.
And they will provide the tracking number later.
Our order processing system met some problems, so we cannot update the shipping status in time. Really sorry for this problem.

Best regards,
Evie

So if you have given them your cell number you should get a text about tracking. It's really odd, I didn't realize I had given them my cell number. The forwarder is the carrier in the US. They ship to the US and a domestic carrier completes the shipment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mattyo]

fyi, 11220071053 gasket set is $44.99 at my dealer... like best to buy this rather than individual pieces

 

[Antarctica]

Looks like you also have some casting porosity in that second pic...unless that is an image ghost some 1184 or equivalent will be required. Did you try a case bolt in the holes to verify that it wasn't drilled oversize vs untapped?

Yes - the holes are not drilled oversize, just not tapped. I don't see any real porosity issues, but will probably assemble with a gasket sealant anyway.

So, I guess I'm the only one so far with this issue... My luck...