I used Permatex Motoseal 1 on a Huztl 56mm. The squish was .023 but I did have about .012 Freeport. I can't pull it over without the decomp which also means I can't get a reading on the compression. This build is noticeably stronger than a 54mm build without base gasket.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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it seems my tank leaks along the seam, also it looks like the halves don't meet 100% do you think they will replace the tank, do i have to ship the bad one back usually? my clutch drum is no longer binding, i ran the saw a bit with no bar and now its free, took it apart and all the parts look good.
RoverRebellion
ArboristSite Member
OK guys shes all together. And she SCREAMS right out of the box. No idle problems here, and High jet seemed set perfect out of the box. Final tally is i have a TON of leftover rubber parts, and was missing a few M5x12 and M4x10 bolts but thats about it.
To aid in your sanity, set LOW jet to "All the way seated, and 1.25 turns out". Tune it from there!
Let me also say that I had no issues using a big scoop of common sense and using the case screws to mate the halves together.
I DID use the hot/cold method to seat the clutch side in the crank.
I DID NOT use a cylinder gasket and used 1184 on the cylinder and crankcase deck.
Cylinder is an EasySaw MS660 56mm big bore kit from Wolf Creek Saw Shop. THERE IS ZERO FREE PORT IN MY BUILD USING THIS EASYSAW PART KIT. (And awesome customer service too!)
Cylinder squish using the above kit was a tight .017. I wont worry about it until it becomes an issue. Saw runs awesome.
I DID use Caber 56mm rings.
The saw is EXTREMELY difficult to start without a decomp valve when cold because compression is so high. It will make your right arm bigger for reasons that wont be obvious to anyone else, have a story ready.
Lastly, the decomp valve button has popped off a few times already. It will be replaced with oem.
To aid in your sanity, set LOW jet to "All the way seated, and 1.25 turns out". Tune it from there!
Let me also say that I had no issues using a big scoop of common sense and using the case screws to mate the halves together.
I DID use the hot/cold method to seat the clutch side in the crank.
I DID NOT use a cylinder gasket and used 1184 on the cylinder and crankcase deck.
Cylinder is an EasySaw MS660 56mm big bore kit from Wolf Creek Saw Shop. THERE IS ZERO FREE PORT IN MY BUILD USING THIS EASYSAW PART KIT. (And awesome customer service too!)
Cylinder squish using the above kit was a tight .017. I wont worry about it until it becomes an issue. Saw runs awesome.
I DID use Caber 56mm rings.
The saw is EXTREMELY difficult to start without a decomp valve when cold because compression is so high. It will make your right arm bigger for reasons that wont be obvious to anyone else, have a story ready.
Lastly, the decomp valve button has popped off a few times already. It will be replaced with oem.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
My HuMS660 ( that's my new nickname for the Huztl MS660) has been a doozie of a saw for the money and build ease. Cut the 5th slab a couple days ago...so that makes 6 rip cuts on the 32" x 10' red oak so far. Boy, all that lightening sure did a number on it.
So you think it will make it through at least a few more cuts? 
I saw a huge walnut that was just cut and was going to stop after I ran an errand and ask permission. By time I got back someone else was loading that baby up to take it to a Miller.
I saw a huge walnut that was just cut and was going to stop after I ran an errand and ask permission. By time I got back someone else was loading that baby up to take it to a Miller.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
I think as long as I did my part on aligning the crank bearings properly, it will last a long time if fed good mix and ran with common sense. We'll see... I have a 35' and 15' pair of oak logs waiting.So you think it will make it through at least a few more cuts?
RoverRebellion
ArboristSite Member
Are you guys doing the official 50:1 mix on these?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Break in and the first 5 slabs have been on 33:1 @ 60 ml per 2 liter, full synthetic...basically same as 32:1 @ 4 oz / gal. I wouldn't go any lighter than 40:1 for intermittent cutting and likely will stay with 33:1 for milling. The 50:1 saws all have true nikasil cylinders which I am told hold an oil film much better than chrome does.
PS; OEM bearings likely tolerate less oil than Chinese knockoffs too.
PS; OEM bearings likely tolerate less oil than Chinese knockoffs too.
Also, if I understand, the spec of 50:1 is really in the interest of meeting EPA requirements, not in the interest of making your equipment run better and last longer. I run everything on 40:1 or better.
I gave a couple I built to my friends that cut. One has about 8 gallons ran through it and the other about 5. Both with a different mix of oem parts.
I plan on getting the first one back and tearing it down to put in a oem wrist pin bearing. Then I can see how it's wearing. I told him 40:1 but it's whatever brand mix they use. Running a 32" bar.
I plan on getting the first one back and tearing it down to put in a oem wrist pin bearing. Then I can see how it's wearing. I told him 40:1 but it's whatever brand mix they use. Running a 32" bar.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
A few have mentioned several hundred hours on them and had no complaints. Overall, I just can't see how you could beat the things for value. Maybe if you had access to some straight gassed powerheads for 50$-100$ and added a jug kit, you could end up with a lower investment but 660's aren't common and definitely don't get thrown out for cheap around my parts.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I decided to get one of these to try for myself. I really don't care that its not a real ms660 because, chances are, I will never be able to justify buying a real one. The way I look at it, it's all just for fun anyway. Anyway, I read all of the problems most folks were having before attempting to assemble mine. My crankcase halves went together perfectly, piston and rings looked good. The wrist pin, bearing, and clips fit nicely also. The cylinder looked great. No rough casting marks in the ports, and all the ports looked symmetrical with good beveling on the edges. My gas cap came with an o-ring already installed for a seal, but I chose to swap it with the flat rubber seal that also came with the kit. It seemed to seal a lot better that way. So far no leaks. The chain brake linkage was wrong. The link that connects to the chain brake handle was flipped around the wrong way. I used vise grips to squeeze the rivets holding the linkage together and disassembled it and flipped that link around. I hammered the rivets back down and the chain brake works flawlessly now. The sprocket drum fit nicely during assembly, but after running the saw a while it started getting tight and backed off the crankshaft messing up the retaining washer and e-clip. From what I've read it seems to be the drum and not the bearing. The other issue I have had is the throttle linkage wont let the carb come back to idle everytime. I plan to work on that next. Maybe bend on the linkage some. The saw tuned fine with the chinese carb, but the adjustment screws are set out farther that they should be to reach tune. I don't know if the metering leaver is set at the incorrect height or if it's a metering spring issue. Gonna take it off and look at it when I mess with the throttle linkage. So far those are the only issues I have found. The saw is very strong with loads of compression. I put a chinese 28" bar and chain combo on it also. It pulled that combo great until the clutch drum walked off the crankshaft. Here's the only pic I have on me right now. I will try to post more as I deal with the issues I have found so far.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
The plan is to keep it that way. I read where some have honed the id of the clutch drum with success, but I have also seen comments against doing that since it's a bearing surface. We will see.
One of mine the clutch came loose twice and wedged itself against the drum. Which made it hard to get the washer and clip off.
First time it was torqued to spec and the second time I hit it with my 3/8 impact. I finally ended up putting some blue loctight on it.
When using a impact damage to the clutch/crank or shearing the flywheel key could happen.
First time it was torqued to spec and the second time I hit it with my 3/8 impact. I finally ended up putting some blue loctight on it.
When using a impact damage to the clutch/crank or shearing the flywheel key could happen.
