Hwo to get rid of poison Ivey?

[forestryworks]

Ever see a walnut tree with poison ivy on or near it?

Sure have. After all, Poison Ivy thrives in light to moderate shade.

However, Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) contains an alleopathic chemical called juglone, which inhibits respiration of sensitive plants, but Poison Ivy is not on the list of sensitive plants. Not arguing with you, just throwing it out there.

Can't beat using Glyphosate, repeated mowing, thinning, grazing (increased sunlight tends to decrease poison ivy), and when safe to do so (and you have the required training, certification, insurance as required by your local, regional, and state laws), prescribed burning for controlling P. Ivy. Using a combination of the aforementioned management techniques will work the best.

 

[Foxfire]

Foxfire

Do the chemicals kill the roots?
I've always heard that you need the pull the roots to truly get rid of it.


The round-up enters through the leaves and is drawn down to the roots. The roots swell and die.

If you're digging up plants like Thistle. Yep; you need to dig up the entire root.

Sounds good, I'm not too keen on using chemicals, but I'm not dumb either...

 

[Sagetown]

~ and when safe to do so (and you have the required training, certification, insurance as required by your local, regional, and state law), prescribed burning for controlling P. Ivy.

My skin is toooooo sensitive to even toy with the idea of burning that stuff.

 

[haveawoody]

forestryworks,

The black walnut spray works for me.
Best in early spring when the ivy is just opening new leaves, later in the season it takes much more spraying.
Like anything sprayed though it wont kill every single bit of poison ivy, it's a tough weed to remove with the heaviest of chemical sprays.

Me I have never seen poison ivy on or near black walnut because of the persistent dose of juglone it produces.
Although poison ivy is a persistent character itself.

I would steer clear of burning poison ivy, airborne poison ivy smoke is a serious health risk.
The only absolute way to remove poison ivy is with a spade.

 

[forestryworks]

I would steer clear of burning poison ivy, airborne poison ivy smoke is a serious health risk.

That is correct, hence why I said you can burn only when safe to do so, as in very few plants in the burn unit and you have a good smoke management plan. After all, you are legally responsible for your smoke - where it goes, who it affects, etc. Generally speaking, burning Poison Ivy during the dormant season produces slightly less airborne toxins (though smoke itself is toxic), but cool season burns do not kill the plant as do growing season burns.

The only absolute way to remove poison ivy is with a spade.

That works for the backyard guys with small lots and cold beer

Otherwise, big acres will need a combination of eradication methods, and places managed with regular fire have lower populations of P. Ivy.

In North Central Texas, where I've had most of my experience with Poison Ivy, we don't have Walnut. So herbicide, careful mowing, and burning are really our only options. And digging with spades if there is cold beer

 

[naturelover]

Well, I used roundup, and it killed it back for a season, but seems to have returned. Guess will have to hit it again.

Hate to use anything around the trees though, so I usually end up getting someone who isn't allergic to cut it or pull it, me certainly not getting near it.

Its keeps coming up where I mow, so even cutting it back weekly hasn't stopped it. I am still able to push mow the main yard, but the "lower 40" requires me to use a riding mower.

Nasty stuff indeed...

 

[Sagetown]

Well, I used roundup, and it killed it back for a season, but seems to have returned. Guess will have to hit it again.

Hate to use anything around the trees though, so I usually end up getting someone who isn't allergic to cut it or pull it, me certainly not getting near it.

Nasty stuff indeed...

Roundup won't hurt the trees as long as you keep it off the leaves. Roundup on the bark won't hurt a thing.

I used to spray it around my tree trunks to kill the grass. It does a great job, but all kinds of dormant weeds come up then. I'd rather have the grass, so I just use the weedeater and keep the grass trimmed back dirt short.

 

[Preston]

For me the most effective stuff is AMINE 400 bought from Tractor Supply. I want some 245 T but since the agent orange problem in Vietnam, I can't find it. The AMINE 400 is a 2-4-D week killer and kills without killing grass. But I do spray it on the plant and don't get crazy spraying it. It will kill what's up but next year, or if any new stuff sprouts it will need to be sprayed again. I've been using it on new bamboo sprouts and it does very well on it.

One thing I noticed is to use it just like it says. I had it killing really good and then it wasn't doing so well. I realized I was putting to much AMINE in the water. I use one ounce to a gallon of water. Any more than that is a waste and it does not kill as efficiently. This stuff doesn't kill every thing in site like roundup.

 

[forestryworks]

One thing I noticed is to use it just like it says.

Gee, a no-brainer there. The label is the law.

 

[Preston]

I poured in just a tad to much. It just didn't work as well. I will admit though, I don't measure like the wife does when she's cooking.

 

[cantoo]

2,4,D is usually the best to use as it only kills broadleaf plants. We used to do lots of it and still do abit. Keep spraying it every few weeks at the start of the season. It will keep coming back so you do have to keep spraying it. For those of you saying that you don't want to use it around your trees I suggest you put the round up down and do some reading. There are 100's of sites explaining proper and legal use of roundup. They also explain what it does and doesn't kill. If you don't know then don't use it.

 

[kyle23]

Thanks for all the feedback on how to get rid of it. I am going to try pulling up as much as I can get and the remaining(if there is any) I will try spraying with Black Walnut bark water.