Hydraulic Plumbing options?

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Wirenut2266

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Hello Fellas: Just about to start wood splitter project, and trying to get set up for future needs as well. Right away, will have 24" to 30" finished heigth, table's to catch split logs, and detent valve....Now in future, I will add hydraulic log lift. Can I still use same detent valve. Can I just add another valve to system, or do I need two modular valves. What would be best plumbing option???? From pump to detent valve, out of detent to future log lift valve, then out to tank? Or is there a better way to plumb it? Or only one way to plumb and I'm blowing smoke ? Thanks for input, Bruce....
 
Hello Fellas: Just about to start wood splitter project, and trying to get set up for future needs as well. Right away, will have 24" to 30" finished heigth, table's to catch split logs, and detent valve....Now in future, I will add hydraulic log lift. Can I still use same detent valve. Can I just add another valve to system, or do I need two modular valves. What would be best plumbing option???? From pump to detent valve, out of detent to future log lift valve, then out to tank? Or is there a better way to plumb it? Or only one way to plumb and I'm blowing smoke ? Thanks for input, Bruce....

Yes, you can use the same valve, but it requires another (basically cylinder selecter type valve) that is very close to the price of another detent valve. Now I have hooked cylinders in series before, but remember whichever cylinder has less resistance will activate first. And it's hard on seals if the size and design of the cylinders are not the same. I'd recommend getting a 2 spool valve up front. You'll have less hoses to buy & keep's it simple. You can just use two valves hooked in series also. In that case the first will have priority. In actualality you probably wouldn't be operating both at the same time anyway. My personal op. is a two spool valve one detent, one spring return. And yes there are many other ways you could still do it. Just make sure and match the max flow of the pump to the valve. Good luck.
 
just add another control valve to operate the log lift cylinder.

if you look at a top of the line TW6, it has a couple control valves on it.
 
Valves

Wnut, Plumb it right, use 2 valves, in one,.another words,. buy a double valve,Cheaper than two singles, trying to run two cylinders off 1 Valve, is not a good option,. do it now, instead of adding extra fittings later,Besides adding another valve later and scabing a mount for the second valve, Aint good either,.. .E,J,
 
What others have said. Get a 2 spool valve - makes a much neater, simpler install. Check the scrap yards for the valve - there is usually one on almost any piece of junk machinery that comes in. I gave my last one away to a guy building a splitter. Wish I had it back.

Harry K
 
Mankato Bruce, the electrician?

I would use a two spool valve if you don't need detent return on the splitter part. You still have to control the flow and speed to the lifter or it could catapult logs right over you into the trailer.....

Cut & paste & edited from answering this in another forum. There are also other ways to achieve that I deleted:


2 parts to post

kcj



HOW PROVIDE AUX HYDR FOR LOG LIFTER
Several ways to do it, depending if adding to an existing circuit or building from scratch.

Personally, I’d either:
A. Find a two spool single valve (if I didn’t need detented return) and shim the spool to limit the speed of operation of the lifter, or
B. Use a 6 port selector valve for lifter or splitter, or
C. Add a second power beyond valve for the lifter (if I wanted detented return), before the existing splitter valve, and locate it somewhere away from the main valve so there is no way of confusing the levers.


Three issues come to mind:
A. The selecting circuit to get oil to the second cylinder. That is easy.
B. Controlling flow. If you send all 11 or 16 or 22 gpm to a small lifter cylinder, it could toss the logs over the beam right into the trailer….
C. Heat and throttling losses involved in taking a couple gpm off the main circuit. Any way this happens the rest of the flow is converted to heat. Since this is an intermittent cylinder use, don’t worry about it. If a continuous use, like the conveyor motor discussed earlier, heat would be a big issue and the circuit needs to be more complicated to prevent overheating.



A. SELECTING WHICH FUNCTION
-2 SPOOL VALVE. This would be the cleanest installation.

The handles should be oriented differently (say one 4 inches shorter, or turned down instead of up) so there is no chance of accidentally pulling the wrong handle full stroke, moving the lifter, and having a log roll at you.
Getting a two spool valve will be harder to find and more expensive than the common box store splitter valves. Buying new is easy to build up just what you want, but scrap or surplus will be harder. The cylinder spool section is normal and common. The detent section is a bit harder to find in industrial applications, especially with a kickout. Most surplus/salvage detented manual valves are for motor use. They will have all ports open in center, (cylinder won’t hold position) and a detent in each direction but no kickout. They are made for running a motor continuously. Depending on the valve, you can buy various spools to convert. Most mobile valves are loose enough in tolerance that new spools interchange in the old body. You can buy detent and kickout kits. Overall though, you will probably spend more buying parts then buying a valve new.
If you don’t need a detented return (i.e. if the return cycle is fast enough, say 3 or 4 seconds, the detent isn’t necessary) then a simple two section cylinder spool valve with inlet relief valve is easy to find surplus or salvage. This is by far the cleanest if you don’t need detent.


-6 PORT SELECTOR valve between the existing valve and the existing cylinder.
Basically this takes the two A & B lines out of the valve and sends them to one of two possible directions: to the existing splitter cylinder, or to the log lifter cylinder. Cross SD4 and Prince DS. I didn’t see a 6 port in Energy Mfg. (I only list these three because they are the cheap end of the industry and most common in the retail channels.)
Valve needs to be big enough to handle not only the pump flow, but also the return flow when cylinder is retracting. 11 gpm from pump could be 15-18 returning from closed side of cylinder in retract. Minimize the pressure drop, as every cycle of splitting must go through this valve.
+Can add to existing machine pretty easy.
+When in splitter mode, the lifter is disabled. It cannot accidentally move if the main valve were hit by hand or by a piece of wood. If there is a second spool for lifter, the lifter is live all the time.
-Cost of the 6 port valve is close to adding a spool to the main valve if building from scratch.
-Extra hoses and space required.
-? Extra motions: move selector, then move manual valve, then selector back to split. May have to switch back and forth a couple times to align log on the beam and bite it with the wedge. If the lifter is not used a lot, this could be a minor issue.


-3 PORT SELECTOR in the P line between the pump and the original splitter valve. This sends the oil to either the lifter or the splitter.
+Can add to existing.
+Lifter is disabled in splitter mode.
-Needs another relief valve on the pump side, as the selector blocks flow as it passes through from one direction to the other. This blocked condition, even briefly, could spike the pressure and blow hose or pump.
-Still need the separate lever valve for the lifter. Costs increase.
-? Extra motions: move selector, then move manual valve, then selector back to split. May have to switch back and forth a couple times to align log on the beam and bite it with the wedge. Given that lifter is not used a lot, this could be a minor issue.
-More complexity and cost. I would not go this way.


-MANUAL STEEL HIGH PRESSURE BALL VALVES, two required, in the P line. Turn on the line to the lifter, then turn off the splitter. Lift the log, then splitter on, and lifter off.
+Only advantage I can see is that parts are easy to get.
- -Needs additional RV, chance of getting valves turned in wrong order, and lot of messing around. I would not go there. Only listed because it was asked.


-SECOND VALVE, ADDED BEFORE MAIN SPLITTER VALVE
The new lifter valve needs to be either power beyond or series function. It also needs a relief valve built in if there is not one at the pump, since the RV in the existing splitter valve is downstream of this point. The existing splitter valve can be used with no changes.

Power Beyond valves have one inlet and two outlets. One is a normal tank line for return from a function operated by this valve. It also connects to spring and seal cavities so that high pressure is never applied to those places. The second outlet goes downstream to other valves. If nothing is being operated in valve 1, the full flow is available to operate downstream functions in valve 2. If anything is operated in valve 1, usually there is no flow downstream to operate valve 2.

Add sketch and schem


Series valve has only one outlet port, but that port as well as spring and operator cavities can withstand full pressure. If a downstream valve is operated, the entire Series valve sees full system pressure. If functions are operated in both valves, the sum of the pressures required by each function can’t exceed the pump RV setting. If two cylinders each required 2000 psi to operate, but were connected to series control valves, either one would work fine individually. However, if both were operated at once, the resulting demand of 4000 psi exceeds the relief valve setting and neither cylinder would move.
If loads in each valve are quite low, a series valve allows both functions to work at once. If loads are high, both will stop.

Add sketch and schem


+Easy to add.
+Single spool power beyond valve is easy to find. Does not need detent.
+Keep existing splitter valve
-An extra valve
+ and - Lifter is live all the time.




-SECOND VALVE, ADDED AFTER THE MAIN SPLITTER VALVE
If the lifter valve were added downstream of the splitter valve (in what was the line to tank), the lifter valve does not need to be PB or series, BUT the existing splitter valve must be changed to PB or series. Most cheap valves, especially with detent and kickout option, should not have full system pressure applied to the tank port. I don’t know of a readily available, cheap Power Beyond valve with detent and kickout.

+Easy to add.
-Single spool power beyond valve with detent is harder to find.
-Have to buy two new valves
-An extra valve
-Change the hose because line between the two valves will now have full pressure at times.
+ and - Lifter is live all the time.

I would not go this way unless the valves were available free.

end part 1
 
continued



B. CONTROLLING THE FLOW
If the cylinder is small, the main pump flow would cause it to stroke excessively fast. This could be difficult to control, and possibly dangerous.
Note: depending on load pressure, a two stage pump may cycle back and forth from high flow to low flow. This may cause some dynamics and shock and vibration, but since lifting is very intermittent use, I wouldn’t worry about it.

Some ways to control the speed:

-LARGE CYLINDER, 4 or 5 inch bore, to operate the lifter.
+This slows down the motion, without using separate flow controls or extra valves.
- -Large cylinder at 2500 psi could be many tons of force, and tear things apart. Not feasible to design the lifter to handle the high load.
+Solution: Use a valve with port relief valves, or add a dual cross port relief valve between valve and cylinder. If the main splitting relief is 2500 psi, but the port reliefs or cross port reliefs are set to say 500 psi, then the pressure will be limited to 500 psi at the lifter cylinder and protect the structure.


-LIMIT THE STROKE OF THE SPOOL VALVE by adding adjustable stop screws at each end (difficult), by shimming the spring actuator part of the valve end (opposite the handle end) so the spool cannot open more than a small stroke even if the handle is pulled hard, or by adding some sort of external bracket or stops to prevent the \handle from moving full stroke. This is the approach I would use. I would use a small cylinder to limit force and shim the spool to limit flow/speed.
-Takes some work and creativity and fiddle factor.
+Controlling at both meter in and meter out prevents possible pressure intensification caused by a true meter out control. See below.


-IN LINE FLOW CONTROLS in each of the two lines to the cylinder. These look like a steel block with a micrometer knob sticking out the side.
CAUTION: This appears to be the easy solution, but there are some complications that can increase the rod side pressure enough to blow the rod seal.

Flow controls can be installed to restrict oil going into the cylinder (meter in), or to restrict oil coming back out of cylinder (meter out).

Add sketch and schem

Assume a cylinder is mounted so oil to the closed end extends the rod and lifts the log. Oil to the rod end retracts and lowers the log. Lifting is a ‘resistive’ load, as the oil must be pushed in against the weight of the log. If we open the ports and stop pushing oil in, the motion stops. Driving up a hill is a resistive load. Stopping the engine ‘throttle’ from applying power slows or stops the load.
Lowering is an ‘overruning’ load, as the log weight pushes oil out and the load tends to run ahead of the pump pushing oil into the cylinder to move it down. Driving down a hill is an overrunning load. Stopping the engine ‘throttle’ by itself does not stop the load. It continues to overrun the drive until brakes are applied in another way.


A resistive load (lifting the log) can be controlled by meter in (restricting oil INTO the closed side of cylinder) OR by meter out (restricting oil coming OUT of the rod side. In either case, if the oil is ‘choked off’ it is being compressed and the load is slowed down.
An overrunning load (lowering the log) can only be controlled by meter out (restricting oil OUT of the closed side). Meter in (restricting oil into the rod side) could be totally closed off, and the cylinder would still push oil freely out the closed side, cavitate the rod side, and the load would drop uncontrolled.

So, it seems the answer is simply to do meter out flow control on both ports, with a reverse free flow check when the direction reverses. Unfortunately, not so easy.

Pressure intensification can occur with meter out control, creating internal pressure higher than the relief valve setting.

Add sketch and schem

In lowering, assume the control is totally shut coming out of the cylinder closed side. Full pressure (2500 psi) is applied to rod side. Rod seal sees 2500 psi, and should be fine in this case. However, the total force on the piston now is 2500 psi times the rod side net piston area, PLUS the weight of the log/lifter. That must be resisted by the internal pressure times the area of the closed side of the piston. Usually, if the load is somewhat low, the pressure on the closed side is below the 3000 psi rated maximum of the cylinder body and things are ok.

In raising, the load directions reverse. I won’t go into the math until the sketch is posted, but depending on load and system pressure, the pressure in the rod side, as restricted by a meter out flow control, can exceed the rated pressure of seal or cylinder body.

Intensification is USUALLY a problem only for a cylinder with overrunning load tending to pull the rod out, say a cylinder holding a load hanging from the rod end downward. Pressures with the full 2500 psi on the closed side, intensified maybe 30-40% due to the area ratio, and added with the load weight pulling the rod out, can exceed the rated pressure of the rod seal.

I am NOT saying meter out should not be used. In fact, it is by far the most common hydraulic control. In a home built, intermittent use project, the cylinder may run for years because the cycles are low, or the overload condition might not occur. ‘What do you mean, I’ve done that for years and never had a problem.’
In an industrial application, these intensified pressures should always be checked during the design stage.


-PRIORITY DIVIDER OUT OF PUMP FLOW taking a small flow off, through a power beyond valve either operating the lifter or not, then adding the flow back into the main flow.
+Efficient, not much lost in heat or flow
-More parts
-Needs another relief valve at pump, before the priority divider.
-More complicated than most people can design.




C. HEAT
For a cylinder or intermittent use, ignore this.
For a motor or continuous load, this must be considered. Probably add a second dedicated pump just for this circuit.
Alternates, beyond the scope of this writing:
-Separate dedicated pump running the motor only.
-Separate pump or pump section running to power beyond valve, then to the motor. Unused PB flow adds back into the main pump flow for splitter.



end part 2
 

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