i actually pruned 8 trees today with out spikes

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kf_tree

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i cheated a bit though. 6 of then were pin oaks so i used the bucket to get to the top and tie in. then i did all my cutting on the way down. the tree's had not been pruned in at least 20 years so it was easier and faster to do it in the tree than punch hole for the bucket. there may be hope for me yet.:D
 
The day we are no longer willing to learn new stuff is the day we need to hang up our saddle and rope. :angel:


Who knows, maybe by next year this time you might even be looking for branch collars! :p :D
 
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Sooooooooo, if they were nicely scaffolded, would it have been to much diffrent than spiking (workwise)?

Especially grabing the first 20' with a ladder?

Then having a line thrown in to boot.........
 
About spiking

If you can convert Spike then maybe you can convert me too. I have done some reading online about pruning palms and how spiking is harmful to the palms. I never realized the problems it can cause by putting gashes in the side of the tree....like diseases and harmful insects that can kill the tree. I am going to go out and buy a ladder the next chance I get. I would have never been brought to this realization if I hadnt come this site and read some of the things you guys have to say. This is a really great place...I can definatly learn from you guys and make myself better as a treeman.
 
Barry

If you are going to buy a ladder, a couple things to consider:
1) If the ladder is too heavy to get off the truck, you might end up spiking stuff you don't need to. I have found alum. ladders to be lighter generally than fiberglass. Keep 'em away from lines, though.
2) Check the weight rating. I can get away with using a flimsy 20' alum. with a 200 lb. rating to get in most trees because I only weigh 145. My boss is 230, and my lil ladder scares the heck outta him. He also has a 28' fiberglass, but it takes 2 guys or one strong guy to get it off the truck. I rarely use it because it is such a pain to handle.
3) Make sure you have a place on the truck for it. If it can't ride with you every day, it won't be much help. A 24' ladder won't fit in an 11' ladder box on the chip truck.
 
I weigh 185...hehe

Brian,
You think I could get away with a 200 pound weight limit weighing 185 or do you think that is pushing it? Should I go to a more heavy duty ladder at my weight? Good call on using alum. cause I dont want to throw around a real heavy ladder all the time. I imagine that if I get a 20'+ ladder its just going to have to be strapped in the back of the truck hanging out the bed a little bit because I dont have anywhere else I can put it. I dont have a chipper(everyone around here takes brush to one of three local dumps on 415) and I dont use a trailer because I am a pretty small operation here in Ormond but I am looking to get one if I can obtain a larger customer base. My customer base just hasn't fit the need for one yet. Thanks for the advice on ladders. I am going to go price them tomorrow.
 
Awesome! I don't want you to change your moniker, though, Spike! Now, if I could get you to send me some of your clients...

Gopher
 
Barry, Re. Ladder ratings. You can probably get by with the lighter duty ladder at your weight but a heavier duty rated ladder will be more pleasant to climb on (more stable/less 'bounce'). The physical weight goes up not only with duty rating but also rapidly with length. A 24' ladder isn't just 20% longer than a 20' and thus 20% heavier. The manufacturer has to beef up things to accommodate the extra stress of the longer span. I have a 32' aluminium ladder rated for 250lb. It is awful to handle but very useful at times. Stepping down to a 28' reduces the weight enormously. Bottom line---Figure out what you NEED and the find your best compromise.:)
 
ladders

Werner Ladder Co. in Greenville Pa. has a web site and I have been buying ladders from them since the early 1970's. They will even let you tour their co. if you call ahead and ask. They can explain what ladders do and how and why they are rated for different jobs. They make more than just ladders for industry. I've never had a ladder from them fail in the past 30 years.
The rating is for what the center of a single rung will hold, place your feet to the outside edges and it will hald more. A good ladder will hold it's rated weight when streched out end to end and used as a stage with planks, that includes a 60 footer.Yes I did rigging with ladders and set them up as booms also, but that was for working steel and roofing.
There are many ladder designs to choose from and just as many unique set ups to work with but not just to climb up a tree. Take a look at Werner.com. They colour code the aluminium ladders with yellow and red tips (residential use), blue tips (commercial use), black tips ( industrial use). The colour code also tells you how much the ladder is rated for at a glance. The date of manufacture is stampped on the ladder so you never forget how old the ladder is or what it is rated for. Yes they make fiberglass ones for use around electric lines.

http://www.wernerco.com/
 
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Wow, didn't know ladder was rated as horizontal bridge at its full rating!

Simple ladder rack will keep ladder from hanging out back.

Aluminum gets its structural strength from exact shape of channelling. There was an article a while back about even rattling around in transit can drop strength a small percentage from slight mis-shaping of rails.
 
I use a 28ft. fiberglass ladder daily to work off mid span.
They aren`t that heavy, you just have to learn how to carry them.
The foot bracket between the rails makes them stable, the pole strap is nice for resting the ladder on a tree and they aren`t conductive.
The proper ladder and the right rack set up is what you need for commercial use of a ladder.
Don`t buy anything too light and flimsy.
 
Although aluminum work platforms resemble extension ladders (at a glance), they are an entirely different design. Ladders are made for climbing. Period.
When using tools and equipment borrowed from other trades, the same degree of scrutiny, caution and respect should apply as would be for the primary tools that are taken for granted from experience, understanding and frequent use.

According to OSHA:
"Ladders shall never be used in the horizontal position as scaffolds or work platforms."

Roger
 
ladders

OSHA does not want you to use ladders as work platforms because they have rules about railings to go with the work platform or stage and kick plates. Used to be you could buy that stuff to attach to ladders. Rules have changed over the years. I don't reccomend you use the ladders for work platforms or stages. I do know what a good industrial grade ladder can do and what can be done with it from personal experience. Few people check their equipment for dents and dings and even fewer know how to use equipment properly. Stick to using ladders to climb and be safe.
 
i agree w/ kevin,
i too have a 28' fiberglass ladder that i seem to use on just about every job. it's heavier than an aluminum ladder but it's a heck of alot beefier to climb!!! even streched out to 28'. always tie your ladder in to the tree then hook up your safety lanyard!!!!! i love my 28' and it rides nicely in the back of my trailer~~~
budroe:cool:
 
But, John, I know you have a head start on most of us mortals, but "white men can't jump". Or can they?
 
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