Ice climbing

[RUBE]

I have a hankering to do some ice climbing this winter. I was wondering if anyone else here had ever or wanted to ever climb a slab of ice? I have made a 45' pillar before, south central WI, and am thinking about doing it again this year weather permiting.
Any interest or stories?

 

[Ironbark]

My wife and I are into ice climbing and usually manage 2 weeks in the Canadian Rockies every year. We also go to Rjukan in Norway for a long weekend. It's a neat place and you can climb right by the old duterium factory in Vermork that the allies bombed during WWII to stop the Nazis from using the heavy water to produce an atomic bomb.

Conditions are more fickle in the UK, but Scotland and specifically Ben Nevis has some superb ice climbs. Zero Gully and Point Five are arguable the finest ice gullies in the World.

My favorite area is called the Ghost Valley just outside Calgary in Canada. It's an adventure all the way. You need a 4WD to drive the 15 mile or so approach and you need good conditions or it's impossible. Some superb route at all grades. This House of Sky is a fantastic WI3 and stepping up a notch is Beowulf WI4 set in magnificent surroundings.

I'll see if I can find some pics when I get a chance.

But that's the trouble. Canada is so good that we never get to the other great places like Colorado, Wyoming and Montana.

 

[RUBE]

Ironbark you are much more traveled than I my friend. I have mainly stuck around Lake Superior area. There are many fun treasures around it. From the north shore of Minn. around to the U.P. of Michigan. Made it out to the North shore area of Lake Tahoe which is a winter playground. Just outside of the Donner lake area is really nice. Low elevation, fun skin in approach nice weather and good food close by.
The whole pack it up approach thing got me thinking about a decade ago and I got creative at home. I can make(create) 3-4, 45' routes that range from straight vert to some pretty crazy techno stuff. For the most part we top rope it for newbes but with good weather I can get a couple routes for screws. All this and a bonfire and a warm toilet 75' away
If you ever think about the central part of the US check out Munising MI around the first week of Feb. Lots of folks head there for a fun week.
Be safe and have fun!

 

[BCbound]

A small search of the web and it seems there's a bit of ice around you. have a few friends who do a lot of ice climbing in southern Ontario if you can get up there. Quebec also has world class ice.I'm in the rockies and have hit all those places that Ironbark spoke of. If you get into the ice climbing a bit more you'll have to head out here. It's the place to be for ice.

http://theicepit.com/
http://www.climbingcentral.com/home
http://www.lakesuperior.com/online/216/216waterfalls.html

 

[RUBE]

Thanks for posting the links BC. I know of "the pit" just havent got there yet. The stuff around the lake is awesome and awe inspiring. The blue ice with the lake waves hitting the walls below you is a surreal place to be.
The wall I build at home is a play toy or home gym so to speak. We have set up grills, tv's for football games, kegs, stereos and double halogen work lights for night climbs. Its kind of a "hey I wonder if this would work" thing. Years ago a buddy hammered some spikes into a board than screwed them to the bottom of some ol boots and used a couple of carpenter hammers. Worked out till the screws ripped out thru the boots. If anyone ever wants to try this add some big washers to the heads of the screws so they wont pull thru. Did a route one year that was vert for 6' than went to 94 degrees or so for 35foot. Wanted to spit ya off the whole way.
I see its going to be 3 above zero, fahrenheit, later this week but maybe warm up later in the week. If/when we can get some solid weather for ice making Im going to get at it. Just thought if there were any tree climbers that wanted to try something different Id throw it out there for them. Trees are so dynamic and fun as is ice in a whole new way. It changes all thru the day and night. Brittle pie plates at every huck turn to sticky glue like substance when you can do no wrong. Plus you now get to shop for alot of cool new gear.
Later.

 

[BCbound]

If you are going to build a wall, I've seen it done many times with some old scaffolding and then you tie chickwire all over it and start the hose. Have fun

 

[bendtrees]

Wisconsin isn't that far from Alberta right? You've gotta get out there! Or, the Bozeman Ice Fest is this weekend. A great venue to learn from experienced folks and try out sweet gear. I may bail out of here myself and hit the road.

 

[RUBE]

Bend, Alberta is a little bit of a road trip and I talked with a buddy that lives in Booze man and yesterdays high was negitive something and he says that south in the canyons is well a tad nippy. They just had some snow and approachs are.... interesting. Im sure they will have things worked out for this weekend and I think its suppose to warm some.
I hear what you are saying about having fun with some new gear but darn it I'd like to play with the stuff I have

 

[Ironbark]

Here's some from January '09:

My wife top roping Camilla's Foss WI3:

Me starting out on a really nice short roadside WI4:

Topping out. See how close the road is! Always get an audience!

 

[Cedarkerf]

Here's some from January '09:

My wife top roping Camilla's Foss WI3:


Me starting out on a really nice short roadside WI4:


Topping out. See how close the road is! Always get an audience!

Cool pics Collin. Wish I could get myself back in shape thought that always looked like fun although western Washington doesn't tend to get cold enough for ice climbing.

 

[UnityArborist]

Nice Picks Iron Bark

Look like your belayer is Standing on your rope in the second picture. Standing on ropes with crampons is BAD. Looks like you could have some crazy mixed routes on the right side. There is two small icicles to set it apart from a rock climb. I moved to Oregon from the midwest for bigger trees and warmer weather so I haven't been on ice for years. I heard a saying once that goes, 'It doesn't have to be Fun to be Fun.' That applies well to ice climbing, be safe out there.

 

[RUBE]

Fun stuff Iron Bark. That hike in must have been a real bear
I need to dig up some pics.

 

[lngbeard]

That looks like a gas. In the pic "Topping out" do you have a screw in that I can't see? Just wondering as it looks like a pretty long way to the last visible pro. If you came off you would be on your belayers head. Thanks for sharing.

 

[RUBE]

Looks to be right between the knees, to me anyway. Im not wild about coming off anywhere but its that ground thing I dont like making contact with. Personally I load 'em low till its outta the picture.

 

[ropensaddle]

Here's some from January '09:

My wife top roping Camilla's Foss WI3:

Me starting out on a really nice short roadside WI4:

Topping out. See how close the road is! Always get an audience!

I won't tell ya what the audience is saying lol.

 

[Burvol]

Cool pics Collin. Wish I could get myself back in shape thought that always looked like fun although western Washington doesn't tend to get cold enough for ice climbing.

What? I thought you retired, LOL!!! You got all the time in the world now, I expect to see you in tip top condition this spring at the GTG.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Workin on it have to go back to work Jan 2nd

 

[lngbeard]

Ironbark,
I see the piece now. Good work. Yah, grounding bad.

 

[RUBE]

The Ice Pit

Went to the Ice Pit this last weekend. Much bigger than the website pics. Boy am I outta shape. 1st Festival on 16/17th of this month. Ill try to take some pics this weekend or next.

 

[RUBE]

Ice and a mix. All top roped. If you enlarge the 2nd one you may be able to pick out the climbers.