I'm Going To Throw This @#$%#$% 211 in the Pond!!!

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Freudianfloyd

Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
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I have a 211c that has caused me more problems than all my other saws combined and I dont know what else to do with it!

Symptoms:
1. Hard to start
2. Once started, adjustment screws dont make any difference, I can turn them up and down and the rpms do not change.
3. Idles crazy fast and wont adjust down, then suddenly goes from crazy fast idle to too slow and dies, then wont restart without having to put it on choke.

What I have checked or tried:
1. Cleaned and rebuilt the carb
2. Checked compression
3. Looked into the cylinder and do not seeing any damage
4. Vacuum tested the carb and it held good
5. Changed out the H and L adjustment needles
6. Verified it was getting fuel and it doesnt seem to be flooding
7. Tried a different carb

Anyway, I know I should probably test the crankcase for leaks, but I dont have the tool for that. I have a vacuum hand pump if there is a way to test it with that.

Other than that any ideas?
 
You must have an air leek. Carb boot, impulse line or crank seals. You can block off you exhaust and intake by putting rubber( I use tire patches) in-between carb and intake same for muffler. Put your vacuume pump on the impulse line. It should hold 7-10 inches of mercury. I recommend getting one that does pressure. When you test carbs you use 7 psi not vacume
 
Check your muffler. I had a 271 and it had the symptoms as yours. I tried a new carb and coil ran the same. By chance I pulled the muffler to look at the piston. While the muffler was off I tried to start it, and ran good but loud. Put on a new twenty dollar muffler on it and it was good to go. It almost went in the pond by the way.
 
Philosophy:
If it was built by a human, it can be fixed by a human.
So, whatever is wrong, is findable, and fixable. (This may not apply to some Chinese saws, or Poulans, with more things wrong with them, than a human can find!)
Another quote: "we have not been able to fix your problem, but we are confused on a higher level, about more important things!"
;)
N
 
Air leak- if you don't have the tools- find someone that does, or do a very thorough visual inspection of everything rubber involved with the intake and impulse.
When it does run, does laying the saw on its side, or upside down cause any instant change in revs or kill it quicker?
You can also try spraying WD40 at rubber to metal junctions to see if that makes a change.

Odds are, if you have messed with it enough trying to get it to run that you have put maybe a tank of fuel or more through it, it may have been running lean enough to flog out the piston and ring, so pop the muffler and have a look at how they look from the exhaust port, clean up any carbon deposits while you are in there and clean the spark arrestor screen.
 
You must have an air leek. Carb boot, impulse line or crank seals. You can block off you exhaust and intake by putting rubber( I use tire patches) in-between carb and intake same for muffler. Put your vacuume pump on the impulse line. It should hold 7-10 inches of mercury. I recommend getting one that does pressure. When you test carbs you use 7 psi not vacume
Maybe I am an idiot, but where the heck is the impulse line. I see three hoses, one leads to a primer bulb, one leads to a tank vent, and one leads to the carb. Are any of those impulse lines?

I thought an impulse line went from the crankcase to the carb, but I cant find one anywhere.

Obviously I'm not a saw pro.
 
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