improving wood stove

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mikes mold

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Location
Pine City MN
I have a daka 521 wood stove. It is attached to my forced air furnance. It is 1970s design and I use a lot of wood. 12 cord last year. My question is there a way I can weld in some baffels. Like the newer designs are. I also have a fireplace insert with this 1990s design. Besides baffels it has tubes with holes under the baffels. does anyone know how to incorporate this design into my daka stove. thank you for your time. cold in MN
 
Welcome to AS. What part of the great state you from? OOH, sorry I don't have any help with your question. Someone with some knowledge should chime in soon.
 
This probably isn't the advice you're looking for, but...

Your inginuity, creativeness and hard work are probably better directed in gathering and processing firewood than in modifying a woodstove.

Gather some extra wood, sell it and use the money to buy a new stove. You'll be much happier long term. It won't cause any insurance hassles should issues arise. The new high efficiency stoves are awesome! Well worth the price tag.

Hope this helps!
 
Thank you! You are no doubt right. I even looked at the gasification furnance $7800.00. It is not only the 12 cord used. It is 3 to four hour burn that is hard to maintain also. At 64 it is hard to justify the new stove. Mike
 
theres lots to do but it will still be just a modifed piece of antiquity ,id sell it and buy a psg EPA certified caddy ,get a nice tax break to offset that cost too!
12 cords is way too much wood for an indoor addon unit and id say at 64 its harder to justify all that cutting splitting and stacking given your age than the initial cost of a much better furnace appliance
 
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how much square footage are you trying to heat? insulation? Just curious as 12 cord seems like an astronomical amount. You are talking 4x4x8 = 1 cord right?
 
Yep full cords. The house is 76 feet long. Some built in the 40s,50s, and 70s. Addons. It is the burn time that I am interested in 4hr max. That is why I would like to improve the stove. Like adding secondary burn tubes and or baffels. I do agree I should buy a more effecient stove. They all advertise 8 hr burn. Bull! This stove is only on its second year. In addon furnaces there is not a lot to choose from. I am looking at the Yukon. Wished I seen it earlier. Thanks for your time mike
 
Adding onto too or changing the design of that Daka put's the onus on you if there were ever issues.
Also by changing the design it may not be insureable due to not being tested out by an accredited tesing facility.
With that being said...people do what they are gonna do and it may never be an issue.
I'd say....how much of a gambler are you?

The furnaces we make are eligeable for the 30% tax credit.
With the amount of wood your burning it's clear to me it will not last too long.
I'd guess there will be some warpage and splitting happening ...I could be wrong...they are not the strongest of furnaces.

Your best bet would to put a barometric draft regulator in the flue to slow down the drafts before you start adding baffles.
Also make sure your wood is super dry to ensure that it is making all of the heat that unit is capable of making.
Sure is lacks,but it's either what I've suggested and you live with that or change out to a better built furnace.

We appreciate you thinking about us ,but I'm in no hurry to shove a furnace at you.Yes it's a great time to buy one with the deals out there ,but if you think you are going to do something with that DAKA then....have at it and good luck.
We will always be here when you are tired of putzing with your current heater.


Sounds like you are close to Palisade...stop in for a cup of Joe sometime.....I'll give you the nickle tour.
 
I too have an old fireplace insert that I was thinking about doing the same thing to. I don't see what harm could come from welding in a baffle and a few pipes to supply secondary combustion air up under the baffles. I mean I am sure there is some spectacular tech going into these spiffy new EPA non-cat stoves, but for the most part lots them are pretty low-tech. A baffle to redirect that exhaust gas back over the fire for secondary combustion and a little extra air. Am I being completely ignorant here? It should be said that I live in SE Tennessee and this stove will not have huge heating responsibility like it would way up north. I just want to increase efficiency and decrease pollutant output to a reasonable amount. Would this mod do that. I can't afford a fancy new stove right now. What says ye?!? What are the dangers of this? Thanks in advance gents. This is my fort time over on this forum. I have been over on the milling forum alot
 
Thats where a newer furnace comes into play. You can get 8 hour burns with your furnace, but you will fill your chimney with cresote. A furnace like mine combines preheated air into an insulated firebox. Once up to temps, I can load and damper down fully and achieve a long clean burn. I'll get almost all of my heat from under the baffle with secondary combustion, along with a cleaner chimney. If you modify the furnace, then sell it and something happens it could be a bad thing. You may or may not ruin your firebox, but will destroy your baffle and very possibly overheat the furnace. If you do it, do at your own risk. The clean burning epa stoves have preheated air, fully insulated fireboxes, insulated baffles and burn from the top down due to being on firebrick. You would get more heat, but also send more heat up the chimney without a heat exchanger. Being you just bought it, I would opt out for modifying the furnace. Take care of it, save your money and when it comes time considering purchasing a better unit and sell the old. Also we never loaded our old furnace all the way each time. I didn't mind throwing a few pieces on the fire every 3 or 4 hours until bedtime, then we would load it up. That said, we heated an old victorian home 2400 sq ft with a 1500 series hotblast furnace. Last year we used around 6 1/2 cords of wood. Take advantage of the tax credit in the form of insulation for the home. It will be the best money spent, instead of heating the outdoors.
 
If you watch a secondary combustion stove in the winter, the burn tubes will glow cherry red alot of times. Extreme heat, well over 1200 degrees. This is why they have a fully firebrick lined interior to keep in heat and protect the steel. The baffles aren't made of metal, but most are a ceramic fiber board, firebrick, or like mine a stainless steel insulated baffle. You would have to have a thermometer to monitor the temps of the furnace, and if going full bore and the power goes out, your screwed. The furnaces that contain secondary combustion are built for the extreme heat.
 
Sorry for the post hijack but I thought similar question for a different application.

My stove would be much less efficient than one of those fancy furnaces with an internal temp of 1200 deg. I understand they need to withstand some heat but most steels have a melting point around 2500 F. I think they should be able to hold up to 1200-1500, at least for a little while. I think I am going to go for it. Its either that or freeze this winter ;)
 
North central Mn? Go to Grand Rapids and check out Charmaster. ( west side of town heading to Deer River ) You might get some ideas there. Modifying an existing unit is probally not a good idea especially if it's indoors but you might get away with it.
 
Experiment all you want with the stove, I just want to point out that if something fails and cracks and it's December... well that becomes an emergency.

If this is the only source of heat in the home I'd square away a backup before I started tinkering with it.
 
improving stove

Thanks to everyone. It is too risky insurance wise to revamp the stove. I have my own toolmaking shop and can weld. Just didn't know how to do it safely. Looks like I got to split more wood. Thanks again for all the advise.
 
Thanks to everyone. It is too risky insurance wise to revamp the stove. I have my own toolmaking shop and can weld. Just didn't know how to do it safely. Looks like I got to split more wood. Thanks again for all the advise.

Good call. There's just too much at stake to risk an untested, unapproved
modification.
:chainsawguy:
 
FYI...you could get with the tax credit a wood furnace that would only need a load on each end of the day for $1000 that has a 30 year warranty...BJ90
 
FYI...you could get with the tax credit a wood furnace that would only need a load on each end of the day for $1000 that has a 30 year warranty...BJ90

A BJ90 for $1000? You're saying that this furnace gives the 30% tax rebate at the end of the year? I have checked the website occasionally even tho I can't afford one but hadn't seen that.
 

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