Installing a 044 carb on a MS260

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I put an 084 carb on my 1986 Stihl 064 way back 20 yrs ago, yeah took a bit of fiddeling but not as much as stuffing a full circle crank into its crankcase. Saw still runs strong today in the stock appearing class.Only run it about an hour total if that every year.

So what you're trying to say is that I need to put an 084 carb on my 066, then put the 066 carb on my 460, finally put the 460 carb on my 361?:dizzy:. I'd only have to buy one carb?
 
So what you're trying to say is that I need to put an 084 carb on my 066, then put the 066 carb on my 460, finally put the 460 carb on my 361?:dizzy:. I'd only have to buy one carb?

There you go that makes excellent sense!:hmm3grin2orange:
 
No, put the 084 carb on the 026.:hmm3grin2orange:

Just having some fun here but not kidding. Without digging out my 064 with the 084 carb and measuring it , I believe the big carb is 27 mm [its been 20 yrs since the mod so memory is a little faded here].On the 026 put on a detachable cylinder head, some extreme porting,circle crank,tuned exhaust pipe and then she should have no problem with the 084 carb. Just think of the sweet banshee sound from 50 ft up in a tree.
:chainsawguy:
 
Seen 026 and other 50cc saws piped on alcohol spike up towards 19,000, as long as everything is in good order they seem to hold together, but would not want something to start to give at that speed, not likely things are going to come apart in a gentle manner at 19,000 RPM.

Here is an 026 I had been working on ~12 inch poplar, still original carb body but bored, cut off head but no external transfers, so it will get faster when I get the time to get back to the project.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXy4rBf4PHs

Another in smaller wood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CovJD_Ozbng&feature=related
 
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Seen 026 and other 50cc saws piped on alcohol spike up towards 19,000, as long as everything is in good order they seem to hold together, but would not want something to start to give at that speed, not likely things are going to come apart in a gentle manner at 19,000 RPM.

Thanks for the vids Timberwolf. The little 50s have their own special powerband don't they? Yes even with a factory bottomend they can stay together if operated in a gentle manner . Run up to wot and then let off throttle slowly back to idle. Blipping the throttle is the hardest thing on the connecting rod bearings when a saw is heavily modded.
 
I ordered new clutch spring and some how they ended up ordering MS270 springs. They appear to have a little heavier guage wire and maybe a hair shorter. I went ahead and installed them. The chain is no longer coasting. Every now and then it makes little bitty jumps but not a safety factor like it was. Now just to find a chance to get it in some wood and get some video for you guys.
 
Blsnelling: thank you for this article. The larger carb works great! :msp_thumbsup:

The only thing is, the 260 couldn't get rpms pass 12,500 with the stock filter. The carb couldn't breathe. So I cut the fleece or whatever it's made of out and siliconed foam across.

That fixed the breathing issue and allowed rpms to go to 15,800 rpms.

Some porting has been done, and pop can for a base gasket with sealer.

At the very start, when everything was assembled, I had a factory working choke in the filter. It worked even with the larger hole ground in the body. The 260 started good, looked completely factory, but when it went to get tached and tuned, the rpms wouldn't climb pass 12,000. The choke was removed, and gained 500 rpms. Then filter assembly was removed, it went up to 17,100 rpms where it works good.

Then we gutted filter. The saw came down to 15,800 where it's been for the last year.

Once again, thanks for this article!
 

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