Installing a carb kit basics.........

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TimberPig, sorry can you be more specific. I am not sure what line is the impulse line.

I noticed today that if I take off the fuel cap and the put it back on the saw will run perfect for a little while. I cleaned the vent in the cap but it is still doing the same thing.

The impulse line goes from the crankcase to the carb. It operates the fuel pump diaphragm, to feed fuel to the carb.
 
The impulse line goes from the crankcase to the carb. It operates the fuel pump diaphragm, to feed fuel to the carb.

And the 025 Stihl (Walbro carb) doesn't have one. Somebody please kick me if I'm wrong.:buttkick: Makes me wonder what causes the diaphram to pump on my 025s. Vacuum through the intake possibly?
 
Yes it does... Look carefully... It connects up underneath the plastic housing, and goes into the carb though a hole in the boot connector.

Do you have an IPL? That's a great place to start. Maybe a service manual also.
 
Yes it does... Look carefully... It connects up underneath the plastic housing, and goes into the carb though a hole in the boot connector.

Do you have an IPL? That's a great place to start. Maybe a service manual also.

Lake, Help me out here.
I'm not the brightest star in the sky, but I've owned a dozen or so Stihl 025s over the years and have yet to see an impulse line on their carbs. Unless they're built into the boot somewhere?

Don't have an IPL or a manual here. Could you send me a link with a closeup picture.

Thanks
 
There a little hole on the boot rubber that lines up with a hole in the carb body. As I mentioned above, the impulse line connects to the plastic housing near the carb and boot.
 
I didn't a few years ago, but do now... changes in the gas have made the use of loctite or nail polish a problem. I just put them in dry now.

Zama's use of sealer has cost Stihl a bundle in warranty claims over the past few years.
 
Zama welch plugs

I know most folks I've talked to don't use any sealer on the plugs in Walbro carbs, but I don't know what to do with this Zama. Andy, why has the sealer caused problems? Is it because of the sealer coming loose and plugging up passages? So you don't use sealer on the Zama wedge-shaped plugs now? I was concerned whether the nail polish could stand up to gas, but apparently it doesn't.
 
The sealer usually never makes it to the passages - just comes loose as a big piece and interfers with the metering lever. Sometimes it covers a jet, and can be a pain to see as it moves around.

Yes, even the big triangular wedges like in the C3A - just dry and a slight tap on top with a big flat punch to "just" distort the cover - too much and they never fit.

Every time I open a Zama carb, I probe the sealer (if any) to see if it's loose.


I'm not sure if zama is using sealer or not now.
 
Don't you have problems with leaks around the edges of the welch plugs? I thought folks started using the nail polish, etc because the carbs kept leaking around the welch plugs causing problems? Thanks
 
nope.... It sure is easier to use a sealer, but if you tap them just right, they expand and don't leak. If they do, you know immediately as the low end won't be close to 1 turn (or whatever) calibration, or, worst case, they come out and the carb floods.

A few points:
-Since getting an ultrasonic cleaner I rarely take out welch plugs.
-I have seen nail polish used sucessfully, and in carb and that have been installed for a couple or more), years. I've also seen a lot of factory failures.
- Zama must think they know something as they use it, but, it is failing in the field. I heard that Stihl (and it must affect others - the carb are used in a a slew of other equipment) isn't happy with the failures.

What does Zama recommend?
 
Just an observation

If I am supposed to feel bad for the large manufacturers when they cheap out buying their parts and have to have the dealers fix their mistake I don't

Chinese Zama carbs are crap period....and the price of products did not go down when they started using them. I replaced a Chinese Zama on a Stihl pole saw yesterday with a real Japanese Zama.

I am beginning to think I am going to have to sell Chinese garbage as well to compete but I spend alot of time testing the products I sell and only sell stuff that works and lasts.....old school...I admit it:)
 
Lake,

If you could put a little photo montage together about how your getting them in without leaking I would appreciate it. I have tried but apparently don't have the right technique. Thanks
 
Howdy Folks,
This thread keeps getting better and batter.

Pest,
Is there a way to tell the difference between a Chinese Zama and a Japanese Zama carb?

Just curious? Thanks

v/r

Mike
 
Hey guys, I may be changing topic a little, but I'll risk the harrassment. I have a 034 and a parts old junk Stihl that I dont even know what it is. Ok, both have Tillotson carbs, one is a B43, the other off the parts saw is a B31. Both have Stihl logo on them also. I been looking for kits for the B43 carb on the 034 AV, and everywhere I look it shows Tillotson only used on the Huskys. Should I be looking for a Stihl kit then assuming that is what they mean since it has the Stihl logo on it also?
 
I think your numbers are wrong... Try cleaning the area and then shine an oblique light source, and use a magnifying glass.

The Tillotson carb on the 034 will be an HK 4x number. Might have and A, B, C etc after it but the first few letters/numbers are the most important. The KIt you need is and RK-32HK
 
Howdy Folks,
This thread keeps getting better and batter.

Pest,
Is there a way to tell the difference between a Chinese Zama and a Japanese Zama carb?

Just curious? Thanks

v/r

Mike

It says "Made in China" on it. The problem is Zama QA/QC, not Chinese/Japanese.
 
I can usually tell the difference by smell, and the subtitles.................

You had me laughing so hard after I timed out that it took me 10 minutes to log back in to rep you for that one:bowdown:


And it won't let me rep you ROTFLMAO
 
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