Is my 026 missing a part? Pics incl

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groundup

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I have been having trouble cold starting a new to me 026. It will fire right up if I take the air filter off and cover the carb with my thumb. So I'm thinking the choke is not engaging properly, however all the linkage seems to be doing what it should.

Then I got to looking at the carb and comparing it to my 310 and the 310 has an oblong metal seat for the air filter that the 026 does not. The original owner said he changed the carb did he forget this piece?

Here is the 026
101_0678.jpg

101_0679.jpg


Here is the 310 with the oblong piece around the carb designed to seal the air filter.
101_0680.jpg

101_0681.jpg


Thoughts? Any advice is appreciated
 
nope, you aren't missing anything. Dont sweat it, thats how its supposed to be.


Keep an eye on that coil wire though!!
 
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Take a picture of the other side of your air filter. Your choke is in the filter. If the lever is broke the choke will not open or close.
 
Take a picture of the other side of your air filter. Your choke is in the filter. If the lever is broke the choke will not open or close.

That lever is there and engaging the flapper. After I reassembled after the pics it fired right up, maybe it just wasn't lined up correctly?

Not sure I'll have to let it sit and try again tomorrow.

If the fuel line is cracked wouldn't it be leaking fuel when running? After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well.
 
My 026 is a real pain to start cold after sitting a few weeks unless full of fuel. Even then, it will take 10-12 pulls. Once it fires the first time, it runs great all day. The next day it will start much better. I personally think the choke has much to be desired on the 026. If that is it's only fault though, I'll take it.
 
That lever is there and engaging the flapper. After I reassembled after the pics it fired right up, maybe it just wasn't lined up correctly?

Not sure I'll have to let it sit and try again tomorrow.

If the fuel line is cracked wouldn't it be leaking fuel when running? After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well.

you'll want to replace the line as it will fail and the saw will start to run lean if at all, pretty easy to do, and you'll be glad you did:wink2:
 
That lever is there and engaging the flapper. After I reassembled after the pics it fired right up, maybe it just wasn't lined up correctly?

Not sure I'll have to let it sit and try again tomorrow.

If the fuel line is cracked wouldn't it be leaking fuel when running? After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well.

no... the fuel is being sucked into the carb so if you have a crack in the line you'll draw air in causing a lean condition and you'll fry the piston and cylinder. I always replace fuel lines of questionable age... Especially the stihl ones!

Also if you want to do it the easy/better way... go get a rubber gromet kit from harbor freight and some regular tygon fuel line from auto parts store and you can replace the stihl lines with regular tygon! Tygon lasts alot longer and you can replace in the future for $1 instead of paying stihl $12 for a new fuel and impulse line!

BTW: does your carb have 2 or 3 adjustment screws? I wonder if he put a worse or better carb in???
 
Take a close look at the fuel line. In this picture it looks like it's cracked right above the black handle.

How on earth can you tell? I have a 24" monitor and the picture quality isn't enough for me to tell if the line is cracked or not.

nstueve said:
no... the fuel is being sucked into the carb so if you have a crack in the line you'll draw air in causing a lean condition and you'll fry the piston and cylinder. I always replace fuel lines of questionable age... Especially the stihl ones!

Also if you want to do it the easy/better way... go get a rubber gromet kit from harbor freight and some regular tygon fuel line from auto parts store and you can replace the stihl lines with regular tygon! Tygon lasts alot longer and you can replace in the future for $1 instead of paying stihl $12 for a new fuel and impulse line!

I think if his fuel line were cracked, the saw would not present with: "After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well. ."

You guys are awfully quick to give out questionable advice.
 
You need to put the air filter back on, and set the master control to "Full Choke", then take a small screwdriver and see if you can move the choke lever/choke some more to close it completely. If you find some extra travel, it could be the linkage, spring, or master control, you will
have to observe to determine.....
 
How on earth can you tell? I have a 24" monitor and the picture quality isn't enough for me to tell if the line is cracked or not.



I think if his fuel line were cracked, the saw would not present with: "After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well. ."

You guys are awfully quick to give out questionable advice.

Look right here in these two spots. It doesn't look right. That is why I suggested cracked.
attachment.php
 
How on earth can you tell? I have a 24" monitor and the picture quality isn't enough for me to tell if the line is cracked or not.

I think if his fuel line were cracked, the saw would not present with: "After it starts up it runs like a champ. It warm starts fine as well. ."

You guys are awfully quick to give out questionable advice.

Yup.

With all due respect to the AS advisory committee, which has helped me a lot over the last coupla years, only thing I see missing in the pic is the air filter cover. Run the sucker and don't look back!

None of my Stihls start on the 2nd or 3rd pull when they've been sitting for a long time. Takes awhile to get fuel where it's needed. Ifn you can't pull an 026 8-10 times in succession with a drop-start, time to go back up on the porch. :D :D
 
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Let it sit for about 48 hrs. Pulled it 10 times on full choke, no fire. Smelled gas, moved to half choke and it fired right up.

I'm happy with that.
 
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