I found an 026 for a good price and that's been my wheeler saw, with a little looking you can come across them for around $100 or if your my brother find one at a garage sale in excellent shape for $50.
Jeep saw/four wheeler saw
- Thread starter bobdag
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I've done the same with little beat up looking saws and my spare tire. I write Bad and a big white X or red X on my spare tire that lays in back of truck and needs repaired on the little saw. Thieves don't like to steal bad stuff.
bobdag
ArboristSite Member
bobdag
ArboristSite Member
I'm still looking. I ended up with another project so this might be on the back burner for a bit. Especially if the jeep is broke down. The new project is a McCullough super pro 81.
If anyone is still reading this:
Today I bought a new RY3714 , Small light Ryobi. Chainsaw. New Home Depot $ 109+ tax $ 119.?.
Didn't need another saw just wanted to see what this is. Sold my Echo cs310 with MM because it was to slow and thought 7 cc bigger engine might make a difference.
This is my initial run and opinion.
First the nose sprocket did not look greased and the chain appeared to be dry. I ALWAYS, oil a new chain and bar every new saw.
Oil added first out of habit just to assure myself I won't forget that. Fuel was added and all instructions followed. The SAME thing I do on most primer bulb types including the cs310. Saw started third pull. Throttle hesitation but expecting that. Warm up throttle up was good. Dropped a few small trees. Removed the tip guide and did a break in by cut 5 minutes, stop about 5, cut again etc. On cool down muffler smoked a tiny bit at first. Expected that. I never crank a new saw and beat it hard until the rings are seated. After a while I started topping a downed tree and the anti-vibration was decent. I felt the saw was faster and stronger than the cs310 with MM. I'd cut let saw idle, pull limbs, cut more. Saw idles well. The saw seemed to run a long time on one fill up. Decided to check the chain. Oops, there was not enough oil, bar was very warm, chain loose. I knew NOT to tighten a hot chain. No oil. I could not believe it. Yes it was evident there had been oil in the tank. But this baby was pumping it out to fast. My Echo 490 can do that. I've learned how important it is to check chains and thankfully my chain was not ruined. The chain oil I'd bought seems to thin. I'll add STP oil additive and check viscosity. But this saw also has ADJUSTABLE oil flow like my big professional saws. After cool down added more oil and gas. I have no idea how long this saw will last but it's almost as light as the cs310, cuts faster and as well IMHO. At this time I'm very impressed. Eventually my right hand did begin to tingle a little bit. The AV has 3 isolation points. It not bad but for a slow old man who likes rest breaks it'll be fine. When it broke in I'll do a Muffler Modification and tune up.
This saw is exactly what I wanted. It will be my "so what" saw. So what if it breaks in a year or two. There is a 3 year warranty. It's gonna ride on my Tractor. In my trailer, in the back of my car. My here Grandson, use THIS saw and leave my Sthils, and Echo's alone. Re-start is good.
There is one OTHER thing. Not the saws fault. I see people making this mistake often.
When I kill ANY motor with a pull rope connected to an engine with return springs and pawls,,,,the trick an old Mechanic taught me years ago, is this, it's simple and effective and saves from damaging the assembly and or rope. With one hand, I pull about a foot of slack and hold it out,. Then with the other hand flip the Off switch. Some engines, sometimes kick back when dying and if there is no slack in the rope starter assembly and rope has to absorb the shock . By holding slack the pawls, an rope get relief. In reviews some people say, rope broke. Maybe that's why. My feeling is these little cheaper saws take a world of abuse and get a bad rap due to the users. Few people will abuse a 359 dollar saw. But my 490 Echo often takes up the slack rope.
If this saw fails. I'll post.
I put ALL saws in cases. This saw perfect fit a small orange Sthil box.
It came with a scrench, a bar sleeve and oil. So much for under 120 bucks. Before I bought I did a study even talked to a friend that retired from Home Depot. He simply stated, it's a good saw for the money. I like the air breather. Looks about like a Echo breather. Snaps open too.
Today I bought a new RY3714 , Small light Ryobi. Chainsaw. New Home Depot $ 109+ tax $ 119.?.
Didn't need another saw just wanted to see what this is. Sold my Echo cs310 with MM because it was to slow and thought 7 cc bigger engine might make a difference.
This is my initial run and opinion.
First the nose sprocket did not look greased and the chain appeared to be dry. I ALWAYS, oil a new chain and bar every new saw.
Oil added first out of habit just to assure myself I won't forget that. Fuel was added and all instructions followed. The SAME thing I do on most primer bulb types including the cs310. Saw started third pull. Throttle hesitation but expecting that. Warm up throttle up was good. Dropped a few small trees. Removed the tip guide and did a break in by cut 5 minutes, stop about 5, cut again etc. On cool down muffler smoked a tiny bit at first. Expected that. I never crank a new saw and beat it hard until the rings are seated. After a while I started topping a downed tree and the anti-vibration was decent. I felt the saw was faster and stronger than the cs310 with MM. I'd cut let saw idle, pull limbs, cut more. Saw idles well. The saw seemed to run a long time on one fill up. Decided to check the chain. Oops, there was not enough oil, bar was very warm, chain loose. I knew NOT to tighten a hot chain. No oil. I could not believe it. Yes it was evident there had been oil in the tank. But this baby was pumping it out to fast. My Echo 490 can do that. I've learned how important it is to check chains and thankfully my chain was not ruined. The chain oil I'd bought seems to thin. I'll add STP oil additive and check viscosity. But this saw also has ADJUSTABLE oil flow like my big professional saws. After cool down added more oil and gas. I have no idea how long this saw will last but it's almost as light as the cs310, cuts faster and as well IMHO. At this time I'm very impressed. Eventually my right hand did begin to tingle a little bit. The AV has 3 isolation points. It not bad but for a slow old man who likes rest breaks it'll be fine. When it broke in I'll do a Muffler Modification and tune up.
This saw is exactly what I wanted. It will be my "so what" saw. So what if it breaks in a year or two. There is a 3 year warranty. It's gonna ride on my Tractor. In my trailer, in the back of my car. My here Grandson, use THIS saw and leave my Sthils, and Echo's alone. Re-start is good.
There is one OTHER thing. Not the saws fault. I see people making this mistake often.
When I kill ANY motor with a pull rope connected to an engine with return springs and pawls,,,,the trick an old Mechanic taught me years ago, is this, it's simple and effective and saves from damaging the assembly and or rope. With one hand, I pull about a foot of slack and hold it out,. Then with the other hand flip the Off switch. Some engines, sometimes kick back when dying and if there is no slack in the rope starter assembly and rope has to absorb the shock . By holding slack the pawls, an rope get relief. In reviews some people say, rope broke. Maybe that's why. My feeling is these little cheaper saws take a world of abuse and get a bad rap due to the users. Few people will abuse a 359 dollar saw. But my 490 Echo often takes up the slack rope.
If this saw fails. I'll post.
I put ALL saws in cases. This saw perfect fit a small orange Sthil box.
It came with a scrench, a bar sleeve and oil. So much for under 120 bucks. Before I bought I did a study even talked to a friend that retired from Home Depot. He simply stated, it's a good saw for the money. I like the air breather. Looks about like a Echo breather. Snaps open too.
