Joining the J-red club....

[FredsFirewood]

Cleaning / Getting it to Run Jonsered 49SP Cantdog

Hello Fellow Jonny Red Owners. I was given a Jonsered 49SP. I have cleaned the old sawdust and oil from around the saw. Yes, I took it to Stark Street on Tualatin Sherwood Avenue, the mechanic took 2 bolts off to remove Muffler and check the piston and cylinder condition. It look good with no Major Scoring marks on the rings or piston. He reinstalled the Muffler.

Taken the Flywheel Off and sand paper the points, put it back together, trying to get a spark. Sandpapered the two Iron coil plate ends which are nearest to the flywheel. Measured the with an Analog Dial Multimeter the primary coil to be about 1.5 to 1.9 Ohms, the secondary coil to be over 10,000 ohms. Adjusted the breaker points to snuggly fit a business card width. Adjusted the Magneto by placing a business card between the loosend Magneto and the flywheel with the flywheel set at Top Dead Center (TDC). The magnet in the flywheel held the magnetic up against the paper business card. Tighten up the two 5.5 millimeter allen screws holding the Magneto Coil. Rolled the flywheel forward and removed the business card. I get spark now. YEAH!!. Cranked and Cranked but no POP. Dangerous to do but poured a little gas down the throat of the carb and pulled the starter rope. It fired up a few revolutions then quit when ran out of gas fumes that it was running on.

Took off the Carburetor, Took off the Fuel Filter inside the Gas tank. and blew it clean with an air hose. This is one of those expanded metal (brass or copper?) filters with the worn out foam boot around the outside of the metal filter. Checked that nothing was plugging the fuel line by blowing air through from the carburetor side to the unfilterd gas tank side.

What should I do next to get this Jonsered 49SP running again?

Tillotson Carb Model HS21D602 Does this take the RK32HK, the RK32HS, or the RK21HS
Tillotson carb rebuild Kit, CantDog?

I think that I will replace the fuel filter and fuel line first, then rebuild the carbureator. It does not seem to be sucking gas up into the carb. So I felt that I should rebuild the old gaskets and diaphrams. No Gas Fumes NO FIRE. Whats your suggestions and set of instructions. WIll use this Jonsered 49SP to trim / prune Plum trees.
My Arm is tired from pulling the starter rope and no fire in the belly of the beast.
?)>) Arm wiping sweat off the brow.
Fred

ps. After Getting it to run, I am consider buying the $23 electronic ignition module that mounts to the case ground and one wire to the Cut Off Switch / wire from the Magneto. You cut the wire that goes fto the points and conensor. The points and conensor are no longer used. This module then senses the peak current? and opens up and makes the spark.
What do you think of this type of electronic ignition to replace old points, being an electronics engineer I would think this would make the saw start easier and more consistantly. I see it as a good $23 dollar investment after I make sure the saw runs for a while on the points that it already has. Your comments about Electronic Ignitions please for Jonny Reds. ( Maybe I should move this to a separate forum starter thread? April 1 2009 No this is no joke post either today.

 

[jra1100]

B200

I don't need any 621 parts, but if you run across any 920 parts saws, let me know.

I sure will. I have seen none of those to date, but I will keep my eye out for one. They as such strong old beasts that they just keep on going. JR

 

[kruege84]

Make us feel bad already and tell us how much she run ya! Looks to be in excellent shape.
I'm thinkin about lookin at one that has the tank sealed w/ epoxy...thinkin he's wanting too much at 150.00.

That's the one. He didn't get $150 for it though. It wasn't a bad break. That was what I focused on when I was checking it out. He did a really nice job of fixing it.

 

[kruege84]

F' this. I getting a new camera. I'll try to borrow one so I can finally get you guys some pics.

 

[Austin1]

Hello Fellow Jonny Red Owners. I was given a Jonsered 49SP. I have cleaned the old sawdust and oil from around the saw. Yes, I took it to Stark Street on Tualatin Sherwood Avenue, the mechanic took 2 bolts off to remove Muffler and check the piston and cylinder condition. It look good with no Major Scoring marks on the rings or piston. He reinstalled the Muffler.

Taken the Flywheel Off and sand paper the points, put it back together, trying to get a spark. Sandpapered the two Iron coil plate ends which are nearest to the flywheel. Measured the with an Analog Dial Multimeter the primary coil to be about 1.5 to 1.9 Ohms, the secondary coil to be over 10,000 ohms. Adjusted the breaker points to snuggly fit a business card width. Adjusted the Magneto by placing a business card between the loosend Magneto and the flywheel with the flywheel set at Top Dead Center (TDC). The magnet in the flywheel held the magnetic up against the paper business card. Tighten up the two 5.5 millimeter allen screws holding the Magneto Coil. Rolled the flywheel forward and removed the business card. I get spark now. YEAH!!. Cranked and Cranked but no POP. Dangerous to do but poured a little gas down the throat of the carb and pulled the starter rope. It fired up a few revolutions then quit when ran out of gas fumes that it was running on.

Took off the Carburetor, Took off the Fuel Filter inside the Gas tank. and blew it clean with an air hose. This is one of those expanded metal (brass or copper?) filters with the worn out foam boot around the outside of the metal filter. Checked that nothing was plugging the fuel line by blowing air through from the carburetor side to the unfilterd gas tank side.

What should I do next to get this Jonsered 49SP running again?

Tillotson Carb Model HS21D602 Does this take the RK32HK, the RK32HS, or the RK21HS
Tillotson carb rebuild Kit, CantDog?

I think that I will replace the fuel filter and fuel line first, then rebuild the carbureator. It does not seem to be sucking gas up into the carb. So I felt that I should rebuild the old gaskets and diaphrams. No Gas Fumes NO FIRE. Whats your suggestions and set of instructions. WIll use this Jonsered 49SP to trim / prune Plum trees.
My Arm is tired from pulling the starter rope and no fire in the belly of the beast.
?)>) Arm wiping sweat off the brow.
Fred

ps. After Getting it to run, I am consider buying the $23 electronic ignition module that mounts to the case ground and one wire to the Cut Off Switch / wire from the Magneto. You cut the wire that goes fto the points and conensor. The points and conensor are no longer used. This module then senses the peak current? and opens up and makes the spark.
What do you think of this type of electronic ignition to replace old points, being an electronics engineer I would think this would make the saw start easier and more consistantly. I see it as a good $23 dollar investment after I make sure the saw runs for a while on the points that it already has. Your comments about Electronic Ignitions please for Jonny Reds. ( Maybe I should move this to a separate forum starter thread? April 1 2009 No this is no joke post either today.

I bet that once you put a carb kit in it especially new diaphragm's it will run fine seems you have covered everything else. I happen to like point's over electronic dare I say the Spark even looks hotter on a points system at least wile pulling the saw over? As how they perform at High rpm Electronic in theory should work better. I say keep it point's.

 

[Cantdog]

Freds 49sp

Hey Fred,

Welcome to the world of the 49sp!! These are very simple saws to work on and respond well to treatment. It sounds like you have already done a lot. If this saw has set for along time just replace the fuel filter and line first (check that the oneway vent valve in the tank is functioning properly also)The complete carb kit for that is #RK-23HS. When you rebuild your carb pay close attention to the way everything comes apart so you get it back together correctly. Also GASoline71 has a tilly rebuild link in his sig which may be helpful to you. Not the same carb but the steps and methods are similar enough to be helpful. Pay close attention to the little screen under the top cover. It sets down in a little hole next to the fuel inlet. Those are frequently packed with filter fuzz. When you take your carb off the manifold check the gasket and make sure that it covers the impulse line and seals and directs the impluse corridor to the carb properly (The one that comes in the kit dosen't do that!!!) if your original is beat you will have to make a new one. No air tight seal ----no pump---no go!!! And above all make sure all passages are clear and clean. When you replace the hi and lo needle valves turn them in just snug (DO NOT overtighten) and then back each out one full turn, that will get you in the ballpark for startup.

I'm with Austin1 on the points issue if in fact you have a workable set of points. They should be filed and matched (so they fit together flat) and they will work fine. However the points for the 49sp are no longer produced so if you have trouble and cannot find a used set perhaps the solidstate module maybe the way to go. Myself, I don't mind points at all and on that saw they don't seem to be very problematic. The gap on the points is .016in and the air gap for the coil is .012in.

Hope some of this is helpful. If I have missed something someone will step in and fill in the spaces I'm sure. There is an awful lot of information on this site. The search function will help you locate information on a multitude of saw related problems and how those folks delt with them. There is hardly a problem that someone hasn't already had. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Cantdog]

70e

F' this. I getting a new camera. I'll try to borrow one so I can finally get you guys some pics.

Yeah we want more pics!!!!! And everyone wants to know just what dirt cheap is as that saw looks lke brandy new!!!

 

[kruege84]

Sorry, still no pics. I have no idea what's wrong with the camera.

Upon further inspection of the cylinder, there is some VERY VERY minor streaking. Like I said earlier, looking at the plug had me thinking it was running a bit lean. But everything is still smooth when I run my fingernail over it. Should I try to hone it, or am I just being anal? Compression checked in at 152, but should I replace the ring since everything is already torn down?

 

[PB]

Sorry, still no pics. I have no idea what's wrong with the camera.

Upon further inspection of the cylinder, there is some VERY VERY minor streaking. Like I said earlier, looking at the plug had me thinking it was running a bit lean. But everything is still smooth when I run my fingernail over it. Should I try to hone it, or am I just being anal? Compression checked in at 152, but should I replace the ring since everything is already torn down?

Throw it back together and call it a day. If the saw has 152psi it has plenty of compression, and I find it best not to mess with the old buggers. If you break something parts are getting harder to find.

Put a new carb kit in it and maybe do a pressure/vacuum test on the case.

 

[heimannm]

kruege84 - 152 PSI on that saw should run for a good long time.

Fred, I would try priming it a few more times. I find a lot of old saws won't pull fuel from the tank right away, but after priming (with mix) and running them a few seconds at a time the carburetor parts get loosened up and they begin to function normally.

If that does not work, welcome to carburetor rebuilding...it's not as bad as you think as long as you pay attention while taking it apart, and don't wait three weeks to put it back together again.

Mark

 

[Cantdog]

70e

Sorry, still no pics. I have no idea what's wrong with the camera.

Upon further inspection of the cylinder, there is some VERY VERY minor streaking. Like I said earlier, looking at the plug had me thinking it was running a bit lean. But everything is still smooth when I run my fingernail over it. Should I try to hone it, or am I just being anal? Compression checked in at 152, but should I replace the ring since everything is already torn down?

I wouldn't try to hone it if it's as good as you say, you do not want to go through the cyl. plating. Prehaps a bit of 00# steel wool or 600 wetdri if it needs it. But I would decarbonize the piston and combustion area and exhaust port. Carbon and heat is what usually spells the end for an old 2 stroke. Make sure that your ring is nice and free. If you can easily come up with a new ring great if not and the original is not stuck in the ring groove I would not remove it. The old one will work fine. As PB said the more you mess with something the greater the chance to break something you can't easily replace . I guess it's all in what you expect from an old saw. If you depend on it to make your living do it the very best you can if it's just a Saturday saw clean it up well and put it back together and have fun. With proper tuning and overall care it will last a very large number of Saturdays.

 

[bowtechmadman]

Sure buy the saw out from underneath me Kruege. Hope you have good luck w/ it.

 

[kruege84]

I wouldn't try to hone it if it's as good as you say, you do not want to go through the cyl. plating. Prehaps a bit of 00# steel wool or 600 wetdri if it needs it. But I would decarbonize the piston and combustion area and exhaust port. Carbon and heat is what usually spells the end for an old 2 stroke. Make sure that your ring is nice and free. If you can easily come up with a new ring great if not and the original is not stuck in the ring groove I would not remove it. The old one will work fine. As PB said the more you mess with something the greater the chance to break something you can't easily replace . I guess it's all in what you expect from an old saw. If you depend on it to make your living do it the very best you can if it's just a Saturday saw clean it up well and put it back together and have fun. With proper tuning and overall care it will last a very large number of Saturdays.

The ring is still good. I already cleaned the carbon build-up. I'm just waiting on some gaskets and a carb kit, then I'll put it all back together. So far, it has cleaned up very nicely.

 

[kruege84]

Sure buy the saw out from underneath me Kruege. Hope you have good luck w/ it.

You've already got a lot more saws than I do. Give some other people a chance!!

 

[Cantdog]

70e

Sweet!!!! From the one pic you posted it looked like it was in real good condition for it's age. You can almost always tell a saws life (barring straight-gassing it) from the way it looks on the outside. You can tell just about how much time it has spent in someones hands by the paint wear on the throttle handle. Todays plastic handles do not show the hours like the old ones. You can usually tell if the previous owner took good care of it or if when it was done for the day it got tossed in the back of the truck to rattle around with the other 12-15 saws in there only half of which ran. IMO you got yourself a keeper, someone either didn't use it much or took real good care it. Or both. Best of luck and I'll shut up now. It's almost beer-30 here on the eastside anyway!!!!!

 

[computeruser]

Nice score.

 

[bowtechmadman]

Just giving you a hard time...all forgiven if you get to a GtG and let me run her.

 

[kruege84]

A quick update....

I stripped and cleaned the beast, everything I could do without pulling any seals. It's looking like one of Brad's right now!

Even though it was in great running shape when I got it, this is what I've done so far:

Carb rebuild
New gaskets
Remove carbon build-up
New spark plug
New air filter
Painted the muffler

Not that it needed any of it, but hey... I'm a bit anal about my saws....

I'll be placing an order from Bailey's for a 24" bar and new sprocket.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find gasket material that is as thin as the old base gasket. I'm doing a squish test tomorrow without the gasket. If it comes in at .022" or over, I'll probably just use some Dirko.

It should be up and running again in a couple days!

 

[kruege84]

Just giving you a hard time...all forgiven if you get to a GtG and let me run her.

It sounds like there will be one towards the end of the summer. If you're there, you can play with her as much as you'd like!

 

[B-N]

The Jonsered 621 was curing cancer before the 361 Stihl.

A funny thing we have here;

#1 621 falls out of favour to the 361
#2 cancer rates rise

Clear proof that the 621 is a better saw!!!