Jonsered 600+ Questions

[Maine-iacJay]

Im a newbie, and I have some questions, I have a chance to get a Jonsered 600+ in good shape for $500 with no saw, wondering if it is worth it? Also what should I put on for a saw? I know that it will start the stihl vs. husky fight but I would really appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

 

[woodshop]

Im a newbie, and I have some questions, I have a chance to get a Jonsered 600+ in good shape for $500 with no saw, wondering if it is worth it? Also what should I put on for a saw? I know that it will start the stihl vs. husky fight but I would really appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

I would post this over in the chainsaw section of arboristsite.com. You will get lots of response there. Personally I know little about Jonsered other than they are a good saw, comparable to the other major players. (I think they are made in same factories as the Husky saws, might be wrong on that one though).

 

[Mad Professor]

Im a newbie, and I have some questions, I have a chance to get a Jonsered 600+ in good shape for $500 with no saw, wondering if it is worth it? Also what should I put on for a saw? I know that it will start the stihl vs. husky fight but I would really appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

No experience with that mill (I have a logosol) but get the biggest saw you can afford. I'd suggest a 660 or 394. I run a 066 on my mill and wonder how much better an 088 would be.....

 

[aquan8tor]

The husky dealer I get parts from said the 394/2094 cylinder/parts are the same except for the externals; the castings are a little different, but major stuff is the same; I don't know why Jonsered gave the 2094/2095 a 6.7 HP rating instead of Husqvarna's 7.1 HP. Same displacement, I think. Haven't taken one apart. The same dealer had stopped carrying jonsereds but said he had sold a 2095 powerhead & bar with their pico rip chain to a guy for milling a couple years ago; I talked to the guy, who'd used it in his own rolling jig to make pine beams for timberframing.
I did a search on the 600+ and it looks like thats a good price, but how good a "deal" it is depends on how long a cut it has, and how much work you're willing to do to get the logs to it, and how much you have to spend on a saw.; It'd probably be pretty easy to get the mill on a trailer, based on the size it looks to be; Just get a big saw. At least 80cc or better, with 95-100preferable. You DO need the power. Its not like cutting firewood.

 

[snowshoveler]

i have a 600+ and i can assure you that the price is very good.
for saws you are limited by size.
a 394 fits in very nice.
372s and all its variants wil not fit in the mill.
44s and all its variants will not fit either.
smaller saws like 357s and 254s will fit with a few small mods (the bar mount studs are closer together.
the big saws like a 3120 wont fit either.
the worm screw adjustment for the height of cut is what interfers with with the front handle on the saw.
i mostly use the 394 and have used 254,262 saws for milling logs under a foot in diameter.
i have milled pine and oak considerably larger than the mill is capable of normalaly (sp)...i just turned the carriage around and mounted the saw on a plate with the bar pointed outward instead of inward.
with very little practice you will be able to cut some very impresive lumber.
the accuracy it is capable of will surprise everyone who has ever sawn lumber.
any questions just ask.
chris

 

[Maine-iacJay]

thanks snowshoveler and all that responded, I never thought of turning around the saw to cut a larger log. I was leaning toward a 395, but it is really nice to find out the little idiosyncrasies of that mill. I did buy it and I am probably going to wait till spring to buy the saw, if I can wait. :greenchainsaw:

 

[gunnarfan]

I'm glad that people picked up on the fact that that was a mill number and not the 6-- series of jonsered saws. I have been looking at the mill that tilton/jonsered dealers sell called the mini jobber.. faulkner's used to sell them before years ago. those go for 1100 or so. can do dado/log cabin milling with those as well as slabbing.

how northern is northern? the county maybe?

was bumming about selling off my 111s saw but that paid off wedding rings.. now i'm looking at transferring a motor from another application for my "bar" milling setup.

also restoring a bandsaw from the old eastern mill. 32" wheels.. thats going to be fun to replace those.

 

[Maine-iacJay]

Sounds like the 111s would be a great saw for any chainsaw mill, they must have had some wild torque. I have been looking at E-bay trying to find a deal, but nothing yet. Talked to a lot of woodcutters up here and they all max out in the 71-75 cc range, they call me foolish for needing a 95cc+, but none of them have done any milling either.
Yeah, Im from the County, only someone from Maine would understand that!

 

[gunnarfan]

As far as size goes a lot of guys seem to think more about cutting up cordwood or what they are going to run around and fell with. I've heard every excuse... Theres no more trees big enough etc for such a saw and all that. I held that 111s at waist height and had a 42" cut bar on it. I was able to drag it along and slab freeheand. It actually seemed a lot lighter when running. I ran it through some large old maple without any issue. I'm interested in some large motors (maybe bike or sled) that i can bolt on to a rig and have it just run back and forth so weight would no longer be an issue. I pick the hotsaw guys brains for that stuff.

 

[bookerdog]

i have a 600+ and i can assure you that the price is very good.
for saws you are limited by size.
a 394 fits in very nice.
372s and all its variants wil not fit in the mill.
44s and all its variants will not fit either.
smaller saws like 357s and 254s will fit with a few small mods (the bar mount studs are closer together.
the big saws like a 3120 wont fit either.
the worm screw adjustment for the height of cut is what interfers with with the front handle on the saw.
i mostly use the 394 and have used 254,262 saws for milling logs under a foot in diameter.
i have milled pine and oak considerably larger than the mill is capable of normalaly (sp)...i just turned the carriage around and mounted the saw on a plate with the bar pointed outward instead of inward.
with very little practice you will be able to cut some very impresive lumber.
the accuracy it is capable of will surprise everyone who has ever sawn lumber.
any questions just ask.
chris

I fit a 3120 on the jonny.

 

[snowshoveler]

if you still have that setup i would like to see a pic of it.

did you have to change out anything .
i tried putting a junked one on and the front handle was in the way of the worm adjustment screw.
didnt mess with it a lot but its very possible that the saw was twisted more than a bit.
havent had the oppurtunity to try with a good 3120.
but if they really do fit i might just have to find one.
thanks ...Chris

 

[bookerdog]

I will try to get a pick with mine on this weekend

 

[snowshoveler]

thanks...
untill a few minutes ago i was considering making the plunge for a new one .
now im glad i can read and have found this place.
Chris