Jotul woodstoves

[MOE]

Ive been looking for a used jotul stove. There is a model 602C that is for sale locally at $400. How big is this stove? is it worth the money? What makes them different from others. I've heard people like them but never why. any input would be apreciated. thanks

 

[Ryan Willock]

I have a model 400 and love it. Thats all my wife and I heat with and let me tell you even when its cold out it has no trouble running you out of the house if you put the wood and air to it! The 400 should be smaller that the one you're refering to. My house is 1,300sqf. and I live in the mountians @ 1700' elevation so our winters a norrmally pretty cold and we have no trouble. Also it is a very efficiant stove.

 

[MOE]

Does the 602 have an ash pan and cooktop like some of the jotul's I've seen.

 

[Wood Butcher]

The 602CB is JØTUL's smallest wood stove. It is also the most popular wood stove in the world with over 1,000,000 having been produced! Known as the Little Giant it has some great features: furniture quality casting as in all their stoves, decorative fireview door, rear or top flue exit, cookplate, non-catalytic burn technology, available in all colors, can put out a max of 28,000 BTU's per hour and heats 600-800 square feet. It weighs in at 160# and takes 16" logs.

I heat exclusively with wood. Well, actually I have a gas backup furnace but it hasn't fired up this winter. A couple of biases I have developed over the years- 1) If you plan to get useful heat from a stove never get the smallest of anything
2) If you plan on using it regularly make sure it has an ash pan. That is a killer for me, the only stove I have without one is an outdoor boiler stove, and to clean out the ash from that I use the bucket of the tractor and just shovel it in, then dump somewhere.

Anyway, for me then this stove would have 2 strikes as being too small and no ash pan, but that is just me.

 

[MOE]

thanks, that's the info I was looking for.

 

[whatsnext]

Moe, Do yourself a favor and find a stove that has the option of using outside air for combustion. It makes a HUGE difference. Trying to heat your house while running negative atmospheric pressure really wastes fuel and causes uneven temps throughout your home. I had a Jotul box type stove in my cabin in Michigan and thought it was the nicest stove I had ever seen. The place was only 400 sq ft though so my GF could keep it warm if she worked at it.
JMO, John...

 

[smokechaser]

We use a 602N in our 978sqft house at 3500' elevation in the mtns of central Oregon. Its the only thing we heat with. I'm just getting to the end of D.fir I cut two yeaars ago. I dont mind shoveling out the ashes every now and again. I do sometimes wish the box was just a bit bigger though.

 

[Jackman61]

This thread is in the wrong place, but I'll respond anyway. I use a Jotul Firelight CB non cat. stove. It works well and makes good heat. The glass stays clean, ashpan is large. It doesn't hold a fire overnight. I've used it for about 6 years now as supplemental heat.

 

[MOE]

I am heating 1,000 sq feet in minnesota winters. I would like something that's big enough and has enough control to hold a fire overnight. I would also like and end loading so it won't puff smoke with my 6" chimny and would also like an ash pan. Is there a Jotul that would fit the bill? Thanks again.

 

[Menchhofer]

Just purchased Jotul 3 CB this year and have used it for about 3 months. Decided it was a little small for the home, so I purchased Jotul Oslo and am in the middle of the installation. The 3CB is for sale if you are interested. They cost about $1350 new, I would sell mine for $950.00.

 

[New England Jim]

Hi Moe, Iv'e been using a jotul 602 for about 8 years and it's been a good little stove. I bought mine used out of the bargain buyer for 100 dollars and it was the older green enamal ones. While I think the 602 is good I would go with the 3cb for a little more money if I was buying new. good luck with it.

 

[whatsnext]

Outside air as an advantage is a myth that has been busted for years.

It offers no advantage.

Lots of infor here:
http://www.woodheat.org/outdoorair/outdoorair.htm

I heat entirely with a Jotul Firelight freestanding woodstove.

Dan

Sorry TreeCo, but that 'paper' is utter nonsense. It assumes that your stove is improperly installed or operated by a moron. A properly set up outside combustion air supply would have none of the problems reported in that 'myth busting' report. Ask any professional HVAC designer.
John..

 

[whatsnext]

Dan, You're the one spreading a myth because, for some reason, you think woodheat.org is the last word in wood heating. If it works for you I'm happy. The easiest solutions to every problem in the report you provided would be to simply run your home at positive pressure, which is easily done, or just make sure your draft is unaffected by changes in wind direction which is also quite easy. This is actually much easier to do than having to remember not to run your dryer or kitchen vent while simultaneously opening your fireplace door or trying to overcome a poorly installed system. I'm not the only one who thinks this way but I guess we're all a bunch ignorant dopes because, well, you say so.
John...

 

[whatsnext]

It is not necessary to "simply run your home at positive pressure" as you are suggesting to run an EPA woodstove.

Fireplaces are a different story but this thread and your suggestion was concerning a woodstove needing outside air.

http://www.woodheat.org/outdoorair/outdoorairmyth.htm

Dan

Dan, I never mentioned the use of an EPA approved stove. I also never said that it was nessesary to run your house at positive static pressure, just that it's an option. I stated that you will use less fuel and have more even heating if you use a stove with an outside air inlet, and you will, your fixation on the contrary not withstanding. The problems mentioned in that article you keep posting having to do with mechanical vent fans have an even greater effect on stoves without outside combustion air inlets. The other problems mentioned having to do with pressure differentials effect those stoves also but can be eliminated with a properly designed outside air inlet. The market is proving both you and woodheat.org to be somewhat misguided. I really don't care what woodheat.org has to say. They are clearly using bad engineering data and are therefor easy to ignore. Clearly you are happy with your stove but that doesn't make it the only stove. This whole thread is really off topic anyway and there are plenty of wood heat forums available to the original poster with a quick Google search.
John....

 

[whatsnext]

Well John.............outside air is a "option" that is not needed on an EPA wood stove. You keep slamming woodheat.org but the data is from Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC).

http://www.woodheat.org/outdoorair/outdooraircode.htm

"Outdoor combustion air in the Canadian national building code
Made mandatory in 1990, removed entirely in 1995."

Have you got links to some of the better sources of information you mention?

Dan

Dan, What I find kind of funny about the report you site is that YOUR stove system has one or more passive outside air inlets which the site seems to have an even bigger problem with. ALL stoves do or they won't function. Therefore ALL stoves fall prey to exactly the same problems sited in the CMHC report when they are not installed properly. This is one of the problems when real engineering reports are dumbed down for public consumption. You're arguing against all outside combustion air inlets even though your stove uses one or more, it's just not as well designed as it could be if you controlled it. It's really kind of funny when you think about it. I really have no problem with woodheat.org I just don't agree with their insistence that this one CMHC report ends the debate which it does not. Woodheat.org presents the report as though it were gospel and it is not any more so than Canadian building codes are. I'm sure they allow both types of stoves by the way. All modern commercial HVAC systems control combustion air in an effort to lower fuel costs. Homeowners would be energy wise to start paying attention to it themselves. I'm also really not all that interested in finding links for you. The web has a search function called google and any perfunctory search on wood stove efficiency will get you all you want. Broaden your horizons a bit and skip past the woodheat.org contributions or people who site them. This is not a debate on which religion is the best it's just chat about wood stoves and frankly I've kind of grown tired of it. As long as you're warm you're happy. If assuming that you are always right makes you feel better then so be it. I wasn't attacking you, I was going after the CMHC report.
John..

 

[whatsnext]

John I use a Jotul Firelight and it has no "passive outside air inlets" as you have suggested.

My stove has a fixed secondary combustion air input but it draws room air only. It is this feature that woodheat.org has issues with. I have made mine adjustable with a very easy modification.

You apparently are suffering some confusion between 'secondary combustion air' and 'outside air' as is evident in your quoted text above. The terms are not interchangeable.

Dan

Dan, I'm not "suffering" from confusion even a little bit. Your stove may not have passive air inlets but your house centainly does that your stove makes use of. Your stove draws air in from outside using passive vents that you are apparently ignorant of just because you didn't install them yourself. When air is drawn into your stove it has to be replaced with outside air or either the fire would go out or your house would collapse from the pressure differential. I'm an engineer and you're an arborist do you really want to claim you have a better grasp of engineering terms? This is my last post on this subject because it's REALLY getting boring. Sorry.

 

[whatsnext]

John of course I understand the air a wood stove uses from inside a house has got to replaced.

At to the slam about me being an arborist and you being an engineer.........well I'm a degreed engineer too.

You said that my stove has 'outside air' inputs that I don't know about........

I beg you pardon but it does not.

Your use of the term 'outside air' to mean either air drawn from the room or air drawn from outside of the dwelling is not a correct use of the term.

Outside air does not mean air drawn from the room.

It seems to be a convenient confusion.

Dan

And this, and all the rest of your posts in this thread, is somehow an argument FOR using a wood stove that sends warm moist air up the stack while introducing cold dry air into your house somewhere else?

/sorry, I couldn't help myself.