Hyway Titanikel Cylinder

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Jasonrkba

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I've been wanting to post this for a while but I wanted to give time for us to see how they hold up. The technology has been around long enough now to see the advantages or disadvantage. The cylinders are beautiful but are they better than the regular Hyway cylinders and how? I have heard they are difficult to port and the Caber rings don't seat very well so your better off using the supplied rings if your going to do any grinding. If your just doing a simple top end change is this the way to go, and why?

Thanks. Jason.
 
These are very generic questions.
The after market cylinders are different from one model of saw to another, try asking about the exact saw you're working on.

Im typically working on older cheap saws that are not worth what a OEM cylinder cost so I buy high way cylinders. I havent tried a titannikel yet, The plating has been fine in the cheap ones so far for me so I stuck with them. The big bore 660 top ends were 30 bucks canadain and work good after some serious porting lol.
 
These are very generic questions.
The after market cylinders are different from one model of saw to another, try asking about the exact saw you're working on.

Im typically working on older cheap saws that are not worth what a OEM cylinder cost so I buy high way cylinders. I havent tried a titannikel yet, The plating has been fine in the cheap ones so far for me so I stuck with them. The big bore 660 top ends were 30 bucks canadain and work good after some serious porting lol.
It's how long will a 30$ p&C last in the real world of longevity- firewood guys and aborest saws in other words, never used titanikel but had no problems with nicosil hyway

Titanikel​

 
These are very generic questions.
The after market cylinders are different from one model of saw to another, try asking about the exact saw you're working on.

Im typically working on older cheap saws that are not worth what a OEM cylinder cost so I buy high way cylinders. I havent tried a titannikel yet, The plating has been fine in the cheap ones so far for me so I stuck with them. The big bore 660 top ends were 30 bucks canadain and work good after some serious porting lol.
Yep, you're right. Let's take a fork of meteor, hyway, farmertec. Looking at the forum, a lot of people use them. I do not know, for example, H372,H390,S390,S440
 
Yep, you're right. Let's take a fork of meteor, hyway, farmertec. Looking at the forum, a lot of people use them. I do not know, for example, H372,H390,S390,S440
yes I have been using meteor and hyway for years because the hold up, don't mind the hyway pistons but have a box of various size cabers so just usually swap them out.
 
What I have found is that the squish was substantially larger on the aftermarket that even a gasket delete couldn't make up for. Therefore compression would suffer and with it power.
 
What I have found is that the squish was substantially larger on the aftermarket that even a gasket delete couldn't make up for. Therefore compression would suffer and with it power.
I have a lathe so no problem for me but a hyway 390xp cylinder comes out about 31 with a gasket and the lower transfers on block end have shaved to a sharp edge- plug and play but the 372 reqires work
 
What I have found is that the squish was substantially larger on the aftermarket that even a gasket delete couldn't make up for. Therefore compression would suffer and with it power.
On what saw?
The 3 different stihl 660 cylinders I have need a gasket, they have .022-.026 squish with a gasket. The big bore kits need some simple port work to run good but no machine work at all.
The 272 I put a cheap cylinder on had .018 squish with no gasket. I ran it like that but the owner complained about how hard it was to pull over so I put a base gasket in it.
 
On what saw?
The 3 different stihl 660 cylinders I have need a gasket, they have .022-.026 squish with a gasket. The big bore kits need some simple port work to run good but no machine work at all.
The 272 I put a cheap cylinder on had .018 squish with no gasket. I ran it like that but the owner complained about how hard it was to pull over so I put a base gasket in it.
It was on a TS420 cutoff saw with a Cross Performance cylinder.
I decided to measure the depth of the squish band on my OEM cylinder and then the Cross Performance one. I was hoping they were the same or maybe because the word performance is in the brand name that aftermarket one maybe a little shorter. The distance from the gasket surface to the squish ring on the OEM is 2.827 inches and the aftermarket is 2.847 inches. So I start out with .020 inches more squish. Using the old cylinder gasket I get squish in three locations of .0600, .0605 and .0595 inches. It looks like the original OEM squish was in the area of .038 inches by using data gathered.
I measured the aftermarket gasket to find that it is .0345 inches so if I used the new AF gasket with the AF cylinder I will have .0725 inch squish which I would give an uneducated guess is way too much. If I do a full gasket delete I will end up with .040, .044, .040. Not exactly to happy with the Cross Performance performance at this point but without a gasket at least I can get back to OEM squish.
 

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