Just Got Started....No End in Sight!

[Homelite]

Been surfing the forum and the net for a while now and have been cutting with my CSM since March. I run an MS390 with 24 inch bar on a Granberg mill. I am in the western suburbs of Chicago but have some property in SW Michigan with nothing but trees and when one falls, it is gets sliced. I am still a little low on the learning curve, but I would rather learn on some OK logs rather than mess up on a nice one. I have a couple hundred feet of some red oak on the drying racks right now, but will hopefully increase it this fall. Some of the wood has carpenter ant damage, but between the darkened wood around the tunnels and the staining from water on the heartwood, some of it is quite nice. I get about 60-70% nice clear boards between 6 and 16" wide with 30-40% with some sort of ant furrows or staining. It's fun nonetheless cheaper than buying it from the store.
I am finishing the conversion of my Parks 20" planer and Delta/Rockwell 20" bandsaw to single phase and will hopefully be able to complete the milling process from start to finish.
I have attached a few pics of some of the progress to date. Hopefully you will enjoy them as much as I enjoy viewing everyone elses!
I have questions about the norm....the best way to air dry, but so far it has been going alright. The ends still check (minor) and there are some surface checks, but unfortunately I can only monitor it when I head to MI once a month or so.

 

[woodshop]

Welcome to the forum... looks like you are already serious into milling and know what you're doing. Nice oak logs. I would try and keep them more towards the 8ft length if only because you will lose some wood on either end air drying. Some minor end checking and even a little surface checking is normal and almost unavoidable when air drying lumber. I guess you have no problem milling hardwood with a saw that size? I noticed in one of those pics, second to last one, you are pulling the mill towards you rather than pushing it down the log? I would think that would be harder on the back... just looks that way anyhow. I usually kinda lean into the mill when milling, partially using my body weight to move the mill down the log.

You have it right when you say no end in sight, it gets in your blood. If you have a woodshop like myself, you will enjoy feeding it with custom lumber. Taking a project from standing tree to finished product carries a lot of satisfaction.

 

[wdchuck]

WElcome to AS, keep up the good work, you are well on your way to feeding the one way addiction.

 

[Homelite]

Thanks for the welcome Woodshop! I like your pics with the USGS shirts in them. I'm a geologist and seeing geology and milling in the same picture brings a tear to my eye.
As for the mill, I pull the mill and sometimes it gets pushed depending on whether I am taking the picture myself. Sometimes I can't get back to the right side of the log in time.
I love the MS390, and recently acquired an older 039, but I already want an 084 or larger so it doesn't take so long. It doesn't take too long with the 390 as long as the chain stays sharp, but with the nature of where the logs come from (lots of sand), they tend to dull up after a log and a half.
I've noticed from your threads that you mill quite a few different thicknesses. What do you find to be the best thickness per species? I have done mostly 5/4 and 4/4 so it can be finished to 4/4 and 3/4. I will be experimenting with some 12" cherry in a few weeks and would like to know what your experience has been.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the pics homelite it looks like you are well into it!

When I can I've been washing my logs to get rid of as much sand as possible. This makes a big difference with chain life even on really hard wood.

Keep the pics coming.

 

[dustytools]

Nice pics Homelite, thanks for sharing them and welcome aboard!

 

[stonykill]

nice pics and welcome. As for milling thickness, I can't speak for others, but personally I mill 1/4 inch thicker than I want as a finished thickness. I mill some 10/4, 8/4, 6/4, and 5/4. Never any thinner as I don't have any use for 3/4 " thick boards.
Nice pics and thanks for sharing!

 

[woodshop]

I've noticed from your threads that you mill quite a few different thicknesses. What do you find to be the best thickness per species?

Well, other than milling some species like apple that tend to twist up like a pretzel no matter how you mill or dry it, and thus I always mill it thick, the species has little to do with it. In my case, like stony and others, I mill for what I will be using it for. I make nutcrackers that need 1 3/4 thick S4S (surfaced 4 sides) stock, so I mill a good bit of 8/4 and 9/4 to get that finished thickness. I make and sell a lot of cracker holders that need 1 1/8 thick stock, so I mill 6/4 to get that. For all my 3/4 boards I start with 1 1/8 from the mill, which is what I mill the most of. If it's quartersawn or riftsawn, something real stable with no defects or knots, you can get away with milling 4/4 to end up with 3/4 S4S. That's always a gamble though, as you will find the thinner you mill, the harder it will be to dry your lumber without some twisting. Thus I mill mostly 1 1/8, especially on boards 10 inches or more wide.

btw, I do work for the USGS as you surmised, but I'm not a geologist, I'm an electronics tech.