Kickback not working? (Stihl)

[Soilarch]

I've had a MS460 for about 3 weeks. I've ran it just about everyday for the last 2 weeks. I usually start it with the brake on with the high idle (cold start?) setting. Today I noticed the chain take off during high idle. I checked to make sure I had engaged the kickback brake. I had! There's not bogging or stalling at all.


What has happened, can I repair it myself, how much part cost can I expect.

This is my only saw and not having it for a week (in the shop) isn't really an option I want to entertain.

 

[Rookie1]

You will have to take off clutch cover chain and bar. Then take off plate that covers brake mechanism to see whats broke.

 

[nilzlofgren]

You will have to take off clutch cover chain and bar. Then take off plate that covers brake mechanism to see whats broke.

+1 There is a metal brake band in there plus a spring, and I believe a cam of some sort. Check those.

 

[Soilarch]

Alright bare with here...I've never worked on chainsaws

Clutch cover off, easy.

Is the brake mechanism behind the metal "skid" plate in front of the sprocket. (The oil transfers from the saw to the bar in a slot. Help by one screw I believe.)

That's the only plate I recall. (Of course, I'm not looking at it right now.)

 

[skid row]

Take it back to the dealer, they will fix it under warrenty..

 

[Rookie1]

No not what your talking about with bar studs. Towards the rear of that. It is molded/contoured,big word huh,and has a couple of torx screws holding it on. More or less it goes around clutch. If its too much for you maybe take it in let them look at it order pats or whatever and keep using saw carefully til parts come in.

 

[serial killer]

There is a little access cover, number 16 in this picture. Pretty much anything from number 10-15 could be busted. Your dealer should fix it for free, but it never hurts to learn how to rip something apart.

 

[Soilarch]

Went and looked at the saw. I see what you're talking about now. (I didn't think I had the right plate...but I had never noticed the torx screws.

It is not a new saw and has never been really cleaned up while I've had it. No warranty. I found a 460 with new piston and cylinder for less than I could buy a 290 new.

I've got enough wood to split to stay around the house tomorrow. I'll split and stack the logs and peak inside the saw. May make a day of "fixin" as my truck's front brakes are squealing on me too.

Besides my back will probably appreciate it.

THANK YOU for the help and the pictures. Really bugs me you can't get manuals/schematics unless you're a dealer. I generally like to keep manuals of the stuff I own. Not just to fix it but to see where the "weak links" are so I can use it better/safer/longer.

 

[mikefunaro]

check your pms, I have the IPL.

MGF

 

[stevethekiwi]

i think you should take it to a dealer. you will end up losing an eye (no offence, these puppies can be dangerous)

STK

 

[SawTroll]

.... Really bugs me you can't get manuals/schematics unless you're a dealer. I generally like to keep manuals of the stuff I own. Not just to fix it but to see where the "weak links" are so I can use it better/safer/longer.

Check your pms!

 

[Soilarch]

Thanks to the generous information I got her back up and going.

I simply wore through the brake band. $15 and 45 minutes later (for take apart, run to store, and reassemble) she'll bring a wot chain to a halt.

Thanks guys. I'll be much pickier about when/if I intentionally use the chain brake from now on.

 

[bama]

Thanks to the generous information I got her back up and going.

I simply wore through the brake band. $15 and 45 minutes later (for take apart, run to store, and reassemble) she'll bring a wot chain to a halt.

Thanks guys. I'll be much pickier about when/if I intentionally use the chain brake from now on.

There is nothing wrong with starting the saw with the brake on. I can't do it on many of mine since they never had chain brakes, but I try to do it on the ones that do.

 

[icelation8]

Its always reccomended to start the saw with the brake on but as soon as the saw starts to come up in high idle lock grab the throttle and release it to disengage the saw from high idle. Then disengage the chain brake when ready to start cutting. It is not a good idea to leave it in high idle for an extended period of time while the brake is engaged.

 

[Soilarch]

From what you guys are saying the brake doesn't wear as fast as I thought. For some reason I assumed I had worn it in two.

(This is a used saw, have no way of knowing it's age...but I'd guess at least 3-4 years. And if it needed a new piston/cylinder it may have been ran hard and long............or just ran lean.)

For another $15 I'll stick to my usual regimen and learn just how fast they wear.