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HitchC&L

ArboristSite Member
Joined
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Location
The Green Mountain State
How do you keep your logs off the ground?

I dont mill yet, but Id like to start this coming spring/summer. I have a tractor, so the lifting isnt the issue, but Im wondering what I would prop it up on.

Im thinking of getting a 36" Alaskan, and flattening off the top, then using the mini mill from baileys, and running a vertical cut down either side, to make a 3 sided cant, then running boards right out of that. Is there an easier way to do this? More effective way?

To run the vertical cuts, I would have to get the log off the ground so the bar wasnt trying to dig in the dirt. Any suggestions for this?

Excuse me for not knowing really what Im doing, Im just trying to learn as much as I can, and make a plan for how to accomplish it.
 
I just made some quick stands for some logs yesterday. I had a few firewood rounds close that were about 14" - 16" in diameter. I noodled the round in half lengthwise so it would have a flat surface then I made a small notch on the round side for the log to sit in.
 
I ended up with an Aeromatic cedar log that the center was pretty bad and made some blocks about 3-4' long--12"x12", 8"x 10", and some 4"x6" ones. They are relatively light (compared to something like oak) and I can stacke them, wedge them, prop them, whatever i need and it my saw tips them it is no major deal. It has worked well for me.

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To run the vertical cuts, I would have to get the log off the ground so the bar wasnt trying to dig in the dirt. Any suggestions for this?

You actually usually don't need the log off the ground to run the vertical cuts. Because your not actually cutting all the way to the ground. Sometimes if the log has alot of taper you need to raise up the small end a little bit.

I've done the sides plenty of times with the log laying on the ground.

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You actually usually don't need the log off the ground to run the vertical cuts. Because your not actually cutting all the way to the ground. Sometimes if the log has alot of taper you need to raise up the small end a little bit.

I've done the sides plenty of times with the log laying on the ground.

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On those mini mills, are you able to adjust how much of the bar is sticking out?

For instance, if I have a 25" bar, and I only need a 16" cut, would I be able to adjust it so it will only stick out that far, and have the rest up above the log? Seems like this would be a bit unsafe.
 
yup you can adjust it, it has a little plastic shield if your nervous about it ;). I use a 28" bar most of the time in my mini mill, on smaller logs when I have over half the bar above the log it can get a little bit tippy, but its easy enuf to control.
 
OK, thats good to know. Things are coming together in my head a little better now haha.

Id still like to lift the log up tho, just to get it out of the dirt, these suggestions are pretty good, Ive got a few ideas now
 
OK, thats good to know. Things are coming together in my head a little better now haha.

Id still like to lift the log up tho, just to get it out of the dirt, these suggestions are pretty good, Ive got a few ideas now

I find it easier to make the first alaskan cut and the 2 mini mill cuts on the ground, then I lift the 3 sided cant up onto some shortie saw horses. Its kinda hard to work the mini mill in the vertical position if your cutting at waist height, but an alaskan works best at waist height.

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i have been using the beam macine to cut off the sides it isnt very accurate but i refinish the timbers with the alaskan and all the smaller stiuff i i square up with a skill saw.
with the beam machine you can just watch the angle so the bar doesnt hit the ground
 
My main mill is a Logosol M7 and the saw is cranked through the log. I had a spare crank so I fashoned a piece of 1x1 angle iron to attach to the crank and to the mill as shown in the next two pics. In the previous post--that was my test run with the setup and I screwed a 2x4 to the end of the log and screwed the pulley to the 2x4. The last picture shows the current setup--I made a hook and clipped it to the pulley. I find this works well withy my long bars when I saw alone. It is real easy to keep an even steady pressure with the crank. The string is nylon Trotline string and it stretches, delivering a nice even pull as I guide the saw with my left hand on the throttle. I also found that I had to put a clamp on the round stabilizer bar directly in front of the reel to guide the string onto the reel--otherwise the string wanted to jump the side.

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Sometimes I use whatever is literally lying around, like the old rotten log in this thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=107756

And closer to home I have some big firewood blocks cut to hold logs as big as I can manhandle alone:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=76422

And yes, as others have said, with a vertical milling jig like a Mini-Mill it is possible to mill 3 sides of a log while it sits right on the ground, if you're careful. I do it if I have to, but don't like to for mostly ergonomic reasons as above.

Hopefully those photos can give you some ideas.
 
I do this:

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With the log on the ground a stack a half round on each side (sometimes a full round piece if it won't roll or I have a chock of some kind) one on each side of the saw log. I then add a second log on one side leaning against the saw log. When I jack the saw log up, the log stacked on the side drops down into place as shown in the photo. And be sure to chock the far end of the saw log if you're using a jack to lift as shown.

And I don't edge the whole log, but I could if I wanted to since the tip of the bar grazing the supports won't hurt anything. Unless the board is thicker than about 3 inches I'd rather edge the individual boards.
 
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I do this:

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With the log on the ground a stack a half round on each side (sometimes a full round piece if it won't roll or I have a chock of some kind) one on each side of the saw log. I then add a second log on one side leaning against the saw log. When I jack the saw log up, the log stacked on the side drops down into place as shown in the photo. And be sure to chock the far end of the saw log if you're using a jack to lift as shown.

And I don't edge the whole log, but I could if I wanted to since the tip of the bar grazing the supports won't hurt anything. Unless the board is thicker than about 3 inches I'd rather edge the individual boards.

Hank,

I followed your log lifter design and used it last week. It works great and it's easy to use. I couldn't remember who had posted the design and found it while looking for saw horse designs for logs.

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jerry-
 
I just want to remind folk using these jack based log lifters that they can tip sideways very easily and there is great temptation to stand alongside the log to keep the log steady. While this works, and when near vertical it is surprising how big a log a mere human can keep balanced, once the log reaches a certain angle from vertical there is nothing anyone can do to stop it tipping and it could end up causing a serious injury.

HuskyH has the right idea of reducing the risk, but even there I can envisage a big log just pushing/rolling those supporting blocks aside if the log was to fall from sufficient a height. Just having to move alongside the log to place more blocks into place represents a risk.

I'd suggest putting gluts (short lengths of log) at right angles to the log being supported, or go for a design like my Log lifter 2 (see my sig)
 
Glad its working for you Jerry and thanks for showing us what you're doing.

I agree with BobL, so pay attention everyone. Even a small to medium size log can hurt you. Chock it up good all-around every time.
 
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