Liner install with no access

[Iaff113]

So my buddy has a masonry chimney that comes to a thimble. It has no access or clean out once you get to the opening. He wants to start burning again. I recommended he line it but I'm not sure how to go about it. It's an 8 inch flue. I was thinking would it be possible to run 6 inch flex down and some how pull it through the thimble then connect stove pipe to that? Has anyone had this issue. I'm not even sure if flex line could bend to 90.


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[babybart]

Hard pipe to the thimble and seal it. Clean chimney and repeat, year after year.

 

[Iaff113]

Any tricks to getting the pipes together when you can't see it?


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[Mad Professor]

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/round-flexible-custom-kits.php

Check out rockford chimney liners. They can provide you with a liner that you can attach the T- at the junction through the thimble. They also have caps and covers so all the draft will go through the liner flue

You are still going to need a cleanout at the bottom of the chimney. You might want the liner to go to the cleanout door below the T-/thimble

 

[deadtrees]

When my stainless liner was put into a masonry chimney the installer removed a number of brick on the out side to get access to the bottom of the liner. He had some sort of electric impact chisel that easily took out the cement between the brick and they would fall out. He put a sideways T at the liner bottom. Upper leg to liner. Horizontal leg into house for stove. Lower leg to a cavity in chimney for a cleanout. He cemented a concrete clean out door in outside of chimney. I just lift out this door to clean soot out of cavity behind door. There is a wad of fiberglass insulation behind the door. Installer said this is so I run a "hot" chimney to keep creosote down. You cannot see where he installed original brick back into chimney unless I showed you.

 

[Mad Professor]

When my stainless liner was put into a masonry chimney the installer removed a number of brick on the out side to get access to the bottom of the liner. He had some sort of electric impact chisel that easily took out the cement between the brick and they would fall out. He put a sideways T at the liner bottom. Upper leg to liner. Horizontal leg into house for stove. Lower leg to a cavity in chimney for a cleanout. He cemented a concrete clean out door in outside of chimney. I just lift out this door to clean soot out of cavity behind door. There is a wad of fiberglass insulation behind the door. Installer said this is so I run a "hot" chimney to keep creosote down. You cannot see where he installed original brick back into chimney unless I showed you.

Seems like a lot of work if you can just buy a 2-part T- and run in stove connection through the thimble.

 

[laynes69]

We are the opposite, we needed to line and had a cleanout below the thimble and opted to remove the cleanout below. I was worried at first because our chimney would produce a bit of creosote in short time and we always used the cleanout. Now the chimney went from a 8x11 liner to a 5.5" round and hasn't been an issue. With the modern unit, we don't produce enough creosote to worry about the cleanout. Mid season I let it go out on a warm day and sweep just for peace of mind but there's never enough there to pose a threat. We have a rigid 22 gauge stainless liner with a snout at the base for the thimble. Lining the chimney is the best thing we've done.