Looking to buy 064

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smcowboy1974

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Looking to buy a stihl 064 in good running condition with preferably a .404 sprocket. Want to spend around $300. May also need a bar in 28" to 32" length. Anybody know of or has one Email me, pm, or write back on this thread. Thanks a lot, and have a great day!
 
I don't have an 064 for ya, but if you keep upping the ante, I might think about parting with my beloved 660 full-chisel 36".
 
If you are willing to spend $400 you should just look at the 046 / ms460. With a good muffler mod it will give the 064 a run for it's money and parts are still currant. Right now I am looking for 3 P&C sets for the 064 and having a tough time finding them at a reasonable price.
 
I might also consider a 066 or 660. I don't really need a 36" bar with it though. Really, best case scenario, is if I could just get a powerhead with a .404 sprocket, and pick the own bar I want. Keep me posted!
 
Dumb question, but you know you can change sprockets right? You could put a .404 on an 036 if you wanted to badly enough! I agree with Dean about the 046/460 option. Heck of a saw. Is there something special about the .404 that makes you want that pitch? Just curious.

Jeff
 
I know I can change the sprocket. .404 chain doesn't stretch as much and the tooth takes a bigger bite than 3/8. So it cuts faster. But I still want an 066 or 064. Leaning towards a good used 066. Please help me out folks. $400 or so, don't need bar or chain.
 
Actually it may cut slower because that bigger bite places more load on the engine, thus sucking up more power to move the larger chain. Most professional users use 3/8 on 066's and 395's because it cuts faster than .404 does, because the engine can move it faster, taking out more chips in the same amount of time, and is more than strong enough to hold up to these powerheads. As to the chain stretching, it doesn't really stretch, it wears until the pitch is longer than when new. Most wear ("stretch") that lengthens the chain is avoidable by keeping the chain sharp always, as a great deal of the wear is caused by excess heat.
 
Ok, here goes. I set up smccowboy1974's big saws. You boys on the west coast are probably hacking at punky conifers so I guess anything will cut. What we have here is a woodcutter that takes down large hardwoods in farm field fence rows. Our region is known as the centeral sands area. Field+sand+wind+trees= sand in wood. We have determined through use, not bench racing, that .404 skip small radius semi chiesel has the best durability (Oregon 27A). We take the rakers off a little more then recomended so he pulls a nice big chip, we are getting something done when we make chips and not dust. At the end off the day he will have more wood cut because he is not sharpening every 3rd block. Think about it, you are dulling a tooth very little more to take a thick chip over a thin one with 3/8's. Bigger chips = more work. Less teeth to sharpen also. And no, I don't need to hear how much faster full chiesel cuts. I know it does and I also know you CAN grind half the tooth away to get it to cut the way it did before if you run into some stuff in your wood, too.
You guys know what works for you, we know what works for us.
 
Why not just buy a saw with a rim and drum setup, get the .404x7/8T rim depending on what you're doing, and turn the beast loose?

Dean, if I wasnt trading my 064 for something else already, I'd offer it to you.
 
Marco it is a very common thing for fallers out here to run .404 and skip tooth. Most guys are running chissel tooth round filed. The chain is more forgiving in dirty wood but still has some of the advantages of the chissel. When I was cutting cedar shake bolts up by St. Helens; the ash was absolutely hell on the chains. Chipper stayed sharper longest but would not give the best performance. I also know guys who use square ground chissel but they are only in the cleanest of timber and low stumping is out of the question on the side of a mountain. The guys that are running 3/8 are usually cutting soft wood under 24". The guys who are cutting 30" and bigger and have their bar in the wood for prolonged periods of time are generally using .404 . If conditions are perfect then yes 3/8 full comp, square ground chissel is king and if it works for you, you are blessed, but for most life is one big compromise.
 
here's an 066 for ya

I have an 066 with a newer cylinder/piston (brand new Stihl rings) and decomp valve (brand new), but has an older (but still clear) tank with the older 066/064 style air filter housing system (air filter system is brand new). Totally went through the saw and checked bearings, has all new gaskets and new oil seals. Haven't rebuilt the carb yet, but it holds pressure fine the way it is. All gaskets/seals passed a vacuum/pressure test. Can have it for $450 shipped to lower 48 US, without bar and chain. I would put a new .404 rim sprocket on it for you if you want that, it has a 3/8 on there now. It has a half wrap handle bar now, but for a little extra I do have a 3/4 (factory) wrap handle bar I could put on. Haven't run it much yet, just got done tearing it all down and putting it all together.

Let me know by PM or email, or if you want photo's.

Tom
 
smcowboy1974 said:
Are 064 and 064 bars interchangeable? Thanks in advance?

Yes, but I don't think that's what you really meant to ask, is it?
 
Mine is pretty tough, could probably use a decomp valve on it. with one, I could guess it would be much much easier, but without one, its kinda tough, and a great muscle builing machine.
 
I agree with oldsaw, I definitely want the decomp.
 

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