Low compression on my new Stihl MS362

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page 2 of this manual on the quickstop. after i read about this i'm wondering if this could affect operation of the saw if it was not working properly?
https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...IHL-MS-362-C-MQ-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

Well I wondering if this is the problem. It stop just like I'd had throw the brake on. I have to lift the saw out of the cut shake it going again. When it cuts its fast and the RPM you can't keep constant very long. I'm thinking it has to be the inertia activation maybe. Boy you would have thought the shops would have thought of that.
 
The quick stop has a fat lockout lever, then has a cable that runs up to the brake
d9d18133b893d129aaca86166411bb97.jpg
 
I was just curious when you said the clutch drum was smokin since that usually means the clutch is still turning and the drum is stuck (due to misalignment, incorrect install, bearing bad, bar pinched, bar/sprocket clogged) and that would mean the saw has decent power. I also was wondering this since the oiler was replaced so the clutch would have to be taken off, was this done with an impactor and what was used as a piston stop since the usual plastic piston stop for the 044, 440, 460, 461 that sits in the squish band won't work, neither will the one i have for a 201t, with the smaller plug hole, maybe just used the rope method?. Since it was new it probably wasn't that tight anyway. Your saw does not have the quickstop chainbrake, that feature was very unpopular and shops could barely get rid of a saw with that, the handle is very large on that compared to the normal throttle lock.

Either way something is bad with the saw if the compression is really that low, but the reading can be affected by where the schrader valve is on your tester, what does the adapter or hose on your tester look like?

When i say they are turds brand new i mean they should still cut well with light pressure thru softwood and hardwood and hold rpm but don't expect to put on a 25" bar and blaze thru a 20" oak when leaning on it just cuz its a new saw. You can put a lot more pressure on the bar once broken in and they cut great.

One more thing, my 462 brand new would blaze thru wood with a 20" bar but couldn't clear chips fast enough and the bar and sprocket tip would get clogged and sieze until i cleared it....i was used to running a loose chain with my older saws with the wrap style larger chip deflectors. Anyway, i put the chain a little tighter and the chips don't clog the bar anymore, though id still like a larger clutch cover but they are expensive of course.

Final summary: I think your saw is low on power and is defective. My comments are just other potential things that can happen with any used or new saw.

When the problem occurs the chain just stops the saw doesn't die it still running but min RPM, the clutch has to slip some. As the chain stops and the saw bogs down so fast there is no way you can react fast enough m most of the time. The power head just can't turn the chain. I had a 3rd shop get me the oiler and install it I'd know what the used to pull the clutch. I used brought the piston up and used a rope, the clutch wasn't that tight. The clutch bell is a E-clip like all Stihl outboard clutch I've worked on. The bearing and bell looked perfect as did the clutch to me. If this saw doesn't have quick stop...I'm in agreement with you
 
The quick stop has a fat lockout lever, then has a cable that runs up to the brake
d9d18133b893d129aaca86166411bb97.jpg

I recognize Part#1 ...now I;m curious I'll have to pull the bar cover off and look the other stuff I think is behind a plate between the clutch and the dwg.
 
I recognize Part#1 ...now I;m curious I'll have to pull the bar cover off and look the other stuff I think is behind a plate between the clutch and the dwg.

If you have the quick stop you have #12 & 20. If not you have the regular looking handle #11 & 3.
#1 is the trigger
 
I have to lift the saw out of the cut shake it going again.

This is gold. (Maybe)

If you are needing to shake it - to get it going- something else may be going on here.

Let’s all turn our attention to this new detail.
Does anyone out there EVER have to shake a saw when it bogs in the cut?

Personally I only ever have to lift a saw, if it bogs. It spools back up and away we go.

If it’s refusing to rev once the weight is off the bar-that’s a whole new thing (to me)

I’m not discounting what I feel is lower compression, not at all... and I may be missing something and barking up the wrong tree... but this info about having to shake the saw has my attention from a mechanics standpoint.

What say all of you?
 
This is gold. (Maybe)

If you are needing to shake it - to get it going- something else may be going on here.

Let’s all turn our attention to this new detail.
Does anyone out there EVER have to shake a saw when it bogs in the cut?

Personally I only ever have to lift a saw, if it bogs. It spools back up and away we go.

If it’s refusing to rev once the weight is off the bar-that’s a whole new thing (to me)

I’m not discounting what I feel is lower compression, not at all... and I may be missing something and barking up the wrong tree... but this info about having to shake the saw has my attention from a mechanics standpoint.

What say all of you?
I used to lift the front wheels on a mower and let it bang back to the ground to shake wet grass loose..?
 
If you have to lift the saw and shake it to get it going again:

That means return to dealer and have them fix it.

Did this occur when they were testing? Have them test it in front of you. Sounds like bad compression still. Outside chance there something going on with the vent or carb lever or meter or something, or chainbrake....either way somebody has to take this thing apart and find out....if i was rich i would take it off your hands and try and see whats going on just out of curiosity. Some saws start out real "tight" but only when you lean on them.
 
Until someone shows me what compression adapter/hose they use for this small spark plug hole i'm not sure what to make of the compression readings without a squish measured. My 462 was at .031 and now at .021 and I'm at 120psi cold with the 10mm adapter that does not have the schrader in it. I don't use the decomp valve really ever on any saw. But i don't have any problems in the cut, and i can hang the saw by its pull cord for a long time before it eventually forces the piston over.
 
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