Low profile chain on the biggest saws

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Skeena2

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I’ve recently gone up to a 881 from a 661. Im looking for a shorter bar to take slices off a cant when milling lumber. I used low profile chain on my 661 to reduce waste. Looking at lp chains, the ones I can find have a cc limit. With a relatively short bar 24-28” caged in by a alaskan mill. The risk of a broken chains turning dangerous feels relatively low. What’s people experience using lp chains on the biggest saws 3210, 880 881.
 
The main issue with using Lopro chains on a big saw is not breakage but that big saws will make them S T R E T C H . . . . then they can jump the sprocket and then after a couple of times doing that the chain is will continually keep jumping the sprocket and is stuffed.

You are lucky you have nice soft wood to cut because Lopro on a 660 on our hardwoods lasts about a couple of logs before no longer staying on the sprocket.
I do use Lopro but on a 441 (72cc) saw and 25" bar.

I agree that chain breakage inside a CSM cut is almost a non--event. I've broken about half a dozen and none of the chains came out of the kerf. The most dangerous time is when starting a cut but provided you start slow and steadily its unlikely to break at this point in the cut.

I would give it a go in your softwoods - all you have to lose is a short loop of chain.
 
When I bought my 660 I wish I had of gotten it with 404. On the first chain I hit barbed wire in a log and it stopped instantly, and wiped out every tooth on the chain. I got out my old Homelite Super 1050 with 404 chain and finished the log. I hit an other piece or two of barbed wire and the 404 just snipped it off, dulling just one or two teeth. I don't know if it was the higher RPM of the 660, or the greater torque of the 1050. I just find 404 to be more forgiving.
 
When I bought my 660 I wish I had of gotten it with 404. On the first chain I hit barbed wire in a log and it stopped instantly, and wiped out every tooth on the chain. I got out my old Homelite Super 1050 with 404 chain and finished the log. I hit an other piece or two of barbed wire and the 404 just snipped it off, dulling just one or two teeth. I don't know if it was the higher RPM of the 660, or the greater torque of the 1050. I just find 404 to be more forgiving.
If it stopped instantly how could it wipe out all the teeth?
 
I've run stihl 63PMX/lo pro on my 066 since the 1990s for milling. Gives a real smooth finish and has a narrow kerf.

Here is some 4 X 4" I made into a mortise and tenon framed wood rack. You can barely see the teeth marks on the wood.

scb M+T 3.jpgscb Sh M+T.jpg



It's hard to find stihl 3003 mount bars, and 3/8 picco rims to fit an 066. I had Danzco make me up a run of rims and I have collected a few 3003 mount bars. Biggest bar I run that setup is 25", I've not had issues with stretching or breakage using the stihl chain. Stihl don't import that chain into USA and it's got damm expensive. I've got a bunch stashed away.

I never get into really big logs as I use a logosol mill and the 25" bar will do ~ 30" logs if I square up 2-3 sides first. 30" logs get me over capacity on what the mill is supposed to handle.
 
If it stopped instantly how could it wipe out all the teeth?
I hit a 1.5’’ pipe hidden in a tree with 404” chain luckily they offered repair kits back then I replaced 4 teeth. Using a metal detector first might help?
 
I hit a 1.5’’ pipe hidden in a tree with 404” chain luckily they offered repair kits back then I replaced 4 teeth. Using a metal detector first might help?
I worked in a commercial mill for a while. The big circular ripsaw w/250 HP 3 phase motor hit 4 horse shoes in an old oak. The saw stopped dead and the lights dimmed. When we got the carriage to back out, using 4 guys with a log battering ram, the circle blade was straight as a potato chip.......
 
I worked in a commercial mill for a while. The big circular ripsaw w/250 HP 3 phase motor hit 4 horse shoes in an old oak. The saw stopped dead and the lights dimmed. When we got the carriage to back out, using 4 guys with a log battering ram, the circle blade was straight as a potato chip.......
Do you mean like Ruffles?
 
I've run stihl 63PMX/lo pro on my 066 since the 1990s for milling. Gives a real smooth finish and has a narrow kerf.

Here is some 4 X 4" I made into a mortise and tenon framed wood rack. You can barely see the teeth marks on the wood.

View attachment 957906View attachment 957907



It's hard to find stihl 3003 mount bars, and 3/8 picco rims to fit an 066. I had Danzco make me up a run of rims and I have collected a few 3003 mount bars. Biggest bar I run that setup is 25", I've not had issues with stretching or breakage using the stihl chain. Stihl don't import that chain into USA and it's got damm expensive. I've got a bunch stashed away.

I never get into really big logs as I use a logosol mill and the 25" bar will do ~ 30" logs if I square up 2-3 sides first. 30" logs get me over capacity on what the mill is supposed to handle.
That is a nice cut, I don’t think I can get that smooth with 404. Ive been out all day, I’m soaked and freezing. As soon as I get out of the hot tub and get to my computer, I’ll post some mantles I cut. I set my planer on 1/64 and 3 passes have it ready for finish.
 
Not very good pics of the two before finish applied, Oak two piece mantle.
lIXr2Xh.jpg

dJMfq33.jpg

chuW3lj.jpg


This is Dawn Redwood or Metasequoia. I milled 27 slabs out of three logs on the Dawn Redwood. Never needed to touch up the chain. On Oak, I have to touch up the chain every 3-5 slabs. Three passes on the planer had these ready to go.
BoPSnn7.jpg

sdqPBMv.jpg
 
I've run stihl 63PMX/lo pro on my 066 since the 1990s for milling. Gives a real smooth finish and has a narrow kerf.

Here is some 4 X 4" I made into a mortise and tenon framed wood rack. You can barely see the teeth marks on the wood.

View attachment 957906View attachment 957907



It's hard to find stihl 3003 mount bars, and 3/8 picco rims to fit an 066. I had Danzco make me up a run of rims and I have collected a few 3003 mount bars. Biggest bar I run that setup is 25", I've not had issues with stretching or breakage using the stihl chain. Stihl don't import that chain into USA and it's got damm expensive. I've got a bunch stashed away.

I never get into really big logs as I use a logosol mill and the 25" bar will do ~ 30" logs if I square up 2-3 sides first. 30" logs get me over capacity on what the mill is supposed to handle.
This was my first project. I think I hit the wood with a flap disk after milling. It was a dead Tulip Poplar that fell acroos my inlaws back yard.
jO9637p.jpg
 
Can you find an 0.050" gage bar to fit the big Stihls? Most bars are going to be 0.063". You *might* be able to re-machine a 12mm mount to 14mm.

If by some chance you get your hands on an 0.050" bar, then you still have to find a lo-pro nose sprocket that fits that particular bar. Bailey's is the only source I am aware of.

I've never had a problem with lo-pro stretching so much that it jumped the drive sprocket. Of course you must use a lo-pro drive sprocket, not a regular 3/8 drive sprocket.

I have broken one lo-pro chain, near the end of its life, on an 84cc saw. That chain did not owe me anything, so I don't hold it against lo-pro, but breakage might indeed be a problem on the bigger saws.
 
Was warned years ago about my 2100(99cc) saw snapping chains in frozen wood. True or false? I’m not sure if they were talking about 3/8” or 404” worn out chains. I never let my chains get sloppy loose on the rivets. I wonder if a 2100 would snap 325” chain? Using 325/.063” chain maybe safer. I wonder if a static pull test needs to be done on 325”/.063” chain?
 
I regularly run a 660 with a GB 36" Lo Pro bar on hardwood using Carlton either full comp or skip with 3/8 lo pro drive sprocket ( I have a stash of the skip chain ) some of the logs I have milled are seasoned Redbox, Apple Box & Red Ironbark - I have had no problem with stretch as long as chain is sharp.
I don't think I'd like to run the 880 with lo pro though, too much torque for this chain on hardwood.
 
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