Mac 1-10 Muffler Problem

[vegaome]

Howdy Folks,

I finally cleaned up the shop and started on my buddies Mac 1-10. I took it apart and cleaned it, drained all the gas and what I think was oil at one time (i put fresh mix in the gas and oil tanks and sloshed it around and poured it out). I also pulled the plug and cycled some mix through the crankcase and cylinder. I did the basic stuff, clean air filter, spark plug and gaped it, I pulled the muffler bit of a pain but not to bad and cleaned and scrapped and wire brushed and sand pappered it. The muffler is pretty clean now, the cylinder, rings and piston look perfect from what I can see in the exahust port (shoot they look better than any saw I have).

The problem is I cant get the mid point muffler bolt on the bottom of the saw back in. It aint long enough any more. The only thing I can think of is that it was never long enough to begin with. It did seem loose when I took it off and it had a locking tab (dont know if that is what you call it?) bent up over it when I took it off. I did not loose any bolts and I used a magnetic tray to hold them. I guess I will go to the hardware store and try to find a longer one.

I have never seen the locking tabs like this before, I have safety wired allot of aircraft bolts to keep them from backing out. Where these locking tabs what they used prior to lock-tite?

Should I use lock-tite on them even though they have the locking tabs?

You all have a good evening.

v/r

Mike

 

[PES+]

Despite the German "experts" take on loctite

Loctite releases and acts like grease at temps over 500 degrees F the whole muffler area averages about twice that temp so it is many times worse using the loctite than not using it.

Look at the end of the bolt and see if it broke off inside the casting. compare it to the other bolt ends and it whould be easy to tell if this is the case.

I recommend a keensert but you may get by with a helicoil. The other option is to retap to a larger size and use a larger diameter bolt.

Safety wire inside a muffler can be risky but then again so are locktabs it they break off.

 

[Al Smith]

It's most likely the wrong screw.The flywheel side is #10 -24 by 5/8".The clutch side is a type of shoulder screw,also #10-24 ,can't remember the length,sorry.

 

[vegaome]

Howdy Fella's,

Thanks for responding. The bolt I was talking about doesn't actually go inside the muffler, it goes through a small tube in the middle of the exhuast pipe befor the actual muffler box. Hard to explain without having a picture, I stopped by the hardware store and got a 10 x 24 x 1 1/4 and a 10 x 24 x 1 1/2. One of these will work. I will try some anti-seize on the threads. I should be able to get her back together tonight.

Does anyone have an IPL for the Mac 1-10 they could email me?

Thanks and have a good evening.

v/r

Mike

 

[Al Smith]

Does anyone have an IPL for the Mac 1-10 they could email me?

Thanks and have a good evening.

v/r

Mike

No problem,send me a PM with an e-mail.

 

[vegaome]

Howdy Folks,

The 10x24x1 1/4 bolt worked fine. I got a nice blue spark too. There might be hope for this saw. One of the fins on the cylinder was bent up pretty good Not sure what caused it but the clutch cover/starter cover (in the case RHP) was cracked riight where its close to the bent fin. Maybe they tried to put the cover on wrong at one time, don't know for sure.

I straightened the bent fin (I though it would break but nope, pretty tough) then drilled a series of holes along the crack in the clutch cover and put the JB to it.

Al Smith, thanks an advance for the IPL and I tried to Rep you but it would not let me.

Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike