So I am awaiting the arrival for a rebuild kit for my McCulloch Mac 10-10 Automatic and I have seen a few videos on YouTube and when people pull off the cylinder I notice nothing else sealing it to the block, and when I took mine apart I also notice how there is nothing in between the two halves of the block like a gasket or anything sealing it. So my question is when I put it back together should I put any kind of sealant or do anything to seal it? Or should I just put it back together with nothing to seal it.
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Tickletime
ArboristSite Lurker
Use a very thin gasket sealant like Permatex. I have seen silicone but don't recommend that. Something with high heat rating and fuel and oil resistant. Put a small bead of sealant under the 4 large bolt heads that are installed inside the Chain oil tank as well.
Dirko HT is a current favorite of mine. Threebond 1184 is also good, but hard to remove if you have to do it over.
Post your question and some photos in the McCulloch Chainsaw thread and you will get good input.
Mark
Post your question and some photos in the McCulloch Chainsaw thread and you will get good input.
Mark
Ok, thank you both for the help. I have a couple more questions.
1: Since I had to take the points stuff out to remove the cylinder I will have to put it back together, but I’m not at all experienced with points and condenser, I know it had spark and it started with some 2 cycle mix poured into the carb but besides that I know you have to gap it and time it and do some other things, but I’m not sure how to do that.
Help would be appreciated, also can I skip that and put an ignition chip in it or is there more to it.
2: honed the cylinder but this was my first time honing and I am really paranoid if I did something wrong, I know I had the right size hone because it matched the size of the bore but I just want to know if there is anything related to the cylinder or honing that I should be worried about.
3: How do I remove the oil line?
4: when I put the new oil seals back in is there any kind of paste or sealing I should put in it? If so, what should I put on it and where.
1: Since I had to take the points stuff out to remove the cylinder I will have to put it back together, but I’m not at all experienced with points and condenser, I know it had spark and it started with some 2 cycle mix poured into the carb but besides that I know you have to gap it and time it and do some other things, but I’m not sure how to do that.
Help would be appreciated, also can I skip that and put an ignition chip in it or is there more to it.
2: honed the cylinder but this was my first time honing and I am really paranoid if I did something wrong, I know I had the right size hone because it matched the size of the bore but I just want to know if there is anything related to the cylinder or honing that I should be worried about.
3: How do I remove the oil line?
4: when I put the new oil seals back in is there any kind of paste or sealing I should put in it? If so, what should I put on it and where.
I prefer points, but the chips work as well. If you go the chip route, search a few threads for ideas on the best place to locate you chip as they can be sensitive to both heat and to the field around the coil. If you reinstall the points, make sure the contact are polished to remove any pitting, and set the point gap between 0.018 and 0.020" at the widest point.
Make sure you clean the cylinder very thoroughly to remove any trace of grit or filings.
Don't remove the oil line if you don't have to. If you must, use some heat (like a heat gun) and lubrication to get the flange through the hole. Another suggestion was to cut the line and use a connector like Poulan uses on fuel lines to reconnect it.
I put a very thin layer of the Dirko on the bearing/seal seats as well as the mating surfaces of the crankcase/oil tank.
I still recommend you move your discussion to the McCulloch thread where you will get more attention.
Mark
Make sure you clean the cylinder very thoroughly to remove any trace of grit or filings.
Don't remove the oil line if you don't have to. If you must, use some heat (like a heat gun) and lubrication to get the flange through the hole. Another suggestion was to cut the line and use a connector like Poulan uses on fuel lines to reconnect it.
I put a very thin layer of the Dirko on the bearing/seal seats as well as the mating surfaces of the crankcase/oil tank.
I still recommend you move your discussion to the McCulloch thread where you will get more attention.
Mark
Pro Mac 60
New Member
Permatex is a name brand and makes all kinds of products, including silicone. Did you mean to recommend permatex #1,#2? I think one is thick, one is thin and I think one dries hard and one dries flexible. I know they are brown and gooey but forget exactly which one is which. This stuff is what you are talking about right? Just want to clarify.
AnthemBassMan
ArboristSite Member
You can use Dirko, YamaBond, HondoBond HT, Permatex Motoseal, Loctite 518 flange sealer, etc…. Everyone has their favorite case sealer. I use HondaBond HT, but any of these should work for you just fine. Just remember prepping/cleaning the case halves first gets you the best results.
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
