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Joined
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Hi all, new to this forum and have a few questions. I had a friend cleaning out his garage and brought by some stuff and told me if I did not want them he was headed to the dump with them. One item that caught my eye was and old McCullough 10-10 chain saw. It is an early saw model no. 60001U all yellow. I burn wood for heat and can always use another saw. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter and cleaned the points, and the thing will start first pull when hot, 3 or 4 cold. I have a few questions that I hope you may be able to answer. First is I am having trouble finding out what is the best chain to use for this saw. As far as I can tell it has a 16, maybe a 17 inch bar, .058 gauge, 3/8 chain with 61 links. That is a hard chain to find and the choises are limited to one chain. The bar does not have a roller at the tip and I would like it to have a bar with a roller. Could I change this bar out to a to something else like a 3/8, .050 maybe a 18 inch bar? If so what would be a good bar? What would be the best chain for it? On my husky 350 I use a 18 inch bar with a full chisel chain and like the way it cuts. This saw is about the same size cc wise and feel it would be good with the same setup.
Also I could use some parts. The wire going from the choke lever to the carb is gone. I was blowing out the airbox and it went flying through the air with the grates of ease to never be seen again. I made one from a small carter pin but is a little short. It works but just about a mm short. Also while I was starting it I must have gotten my foot on the oiler knob and it broke off. I drilled a hole and threaded a screw in leaving about 3/4 inch sticking out to push to oil the chain. It is not a auto oiler ( I thought it was at first) so this is important. Other than that the saw works well. The chain that is on it must be the original chain because it has the McCullough logo on it but is worn out. On a few of the links there is the number 358 on them. I have seen 35S but not 358. I think for firewood cutting this saw would be good and I also like making old things work and seeing them work. I don't think this saw has been used very much. Paint is not very bad and it having what I think is the original chain and bar on it tells me this also.. Most of the McCulloch logo is still visible on the bar. It runs like a top and think it would cut good with a new bar and chain.
Any body have parts they want to sale?
Thanks
 
Brian,

Welcome to AS from a fellow Greenevillian. The McCulloch thread is the best place for the info you seek. I'm no expert on 1010 but there are some over there. I bet you have an auto oiler in addition to the manual oiler. Unscrew the one screw in the center of the oil tank (front of saw) and look inside the tank. You should see the auto oil pump. The manual oil pump is on top of the tank. Things maybe gummed up.

I am usually cutting wood on Saturdays with the Greene County Firewood Ministry (woodlot in the old Delfasco plant on Bernard Avenue and Church Street) if you want to meet up some time to go over your saw. I might not be there tomorrow due to a birthday dinner for my daughter.

Ron
 
We generally need all the help we can get. We usually close May through mid - September but a few cut year round.

Back to the saw. An 18" would be good. 20" as well. I have a 20" you could borrow to see if you like that length. Mac has some odd chain lengths compared to Stihl but you can have them made. I may have some odds and ends you need but no choke knob or linkage.

Ron
 
Great saw, McCulloch specified up to a 28" bar for it [emoji15]. Personally, I think that is pushing it for a 54cc saw in hardwood. I have a 16 on mine right now and have also run a 20 with no problems. If you go to a saw shop they can make that chain for you no problem. There is nothing wrong with a hardnose bar if it's in good shape I would just run it. The bar mount pattern is D176. Many saws used this including poulan and echo in certain years and McCulloch all the way up to the eager beaver days at least so bars are easy to find. Other parts can be tough and you are mostly stuck with used or NOS. check chainsawr.com they have a huge used inventory.
I love my 10-10 and wouldn't trade it for anything. Dad bought her new in 1971[emoji106]
 
Welcome to the site!

If it's a 16" bar it should be a 60 link chain. 18 or 20 inch is ok too but beyond that you are getting a bit long for that saw although larger have been used.

They use Oregon 176 pattern bar which is the same as the newer larger Echo saws so there is plenty of availability to find a good bar at a reasonable price.
 
Oh, and stop putting your boot in the stirrup, drop start that saw like a man lol [emoji106][emoji12]
 
LOL. I normally drop start a saw but in this case I had just rebuilt the carb and it had not ran sense the 70's. It took several pulls to get it started and running enough to get the carb adjusted. I was trying to get the carb adjusted and all that crap. Kept killing the motor. I am old and having trouble with elbows and shoulder. It was kicking back and such. (did not have the bar on it) and I was wore out from working all day. I know better but some of us are getting old and need that extra help sometimes. lol One thing I have noticed about this saw is it don't have a trigger lock or a way to throttle it up for starting? Only saw I have seen that does not have something to throttle up for start. It don't seam to need it but have never seen one without something to throttle up for starting. What about the oil pouring out the chain side through the oil port? Is that normal for this saw or do I need to rebuild the oil pump? I bet it has a check valve somewhere that is stuck from setting so many years. It is a first run of the 10-10 saw and does not say automatic on it and I don't see and oil pump on it. Did they make these without a auto oiler? I see most of these with automatic on the breather and think they are talking about being a auto oiler.

Thanks
Ron: Thanks for the link. I may ease up there tomorrow and check things out. Sounds like something worth while to do some volunteer work. Always like giving back to my community. I will get a bar and chain on order tonight. I drilled a hole in what is left of the oiler button and put a screw in it and left enough sticking out to push the oiler in and it works good enough until I find one. I am also in need of the spring that works the dog to catch the starter. I made one but it don't work very well but well enough to start it.
 
Breakfast is usually at 7:30, not sure about tomorrow though. Gates usually open at 8:00. Lunch is at noon at Trinity UMC tomorrow according to the website.

Ron
 
I see that I wasn't the only one that your new saw kept up past 1:00. I found a spare pawl spring and a damaged green oiler button which I repaired with some glue. You are welcome to these if you still need them.
Ron
 
I'll put them in an envelope and drop them off at the wood lot this morning. They lock up just before noon and unlock around 1:00. I'll let you know later who has them or where I put them.

Ron
 
Brian,

The parts are in a zip lock bag hanging under the cross on the fence to the right of the gate.

Don't set your hopes too high on the button as the glue let go after an hour out of the vise I put it in last night. Maybe you can find a better glue or can weld the soft plastic.

Ron
 
The MAC master has replied in the 1010 thread;


  1. heimannmAddicted to ArboristSite
    New
    61 DL on a 16" bar means it is McCulloch .354 pitch chain, not 3/8". You will need to get a new sprocket and 60 DL 3/8 chain for that one if the chain needs to be replaced.

    Put up a photo of the broke oiler button I may have one that would work, also a photo with the choke button and carburetor so we know what you are looking for.

    I should have something that will work for the starter pawl spring, send a PM if you are still looking.

    There were some early 10-10 models without the automatic oil pump but they can be refit very easily with the pump if you want the auto oil feature.

    The early saws had a small hole in the oil tank for a breather, usually has a cotter pin in it to partially plug the opening. Try putting a piece of felt under the cotter pin, it will still leak but not so fast.


    Mark

    1-40/41/42/43/46 1-50/51/52/53 1-60/61/62/63 Mac 15 200 200 Bow 250 Super 250 300 380 440 450 640 650 660 1-70/71/72/76 1-81/85/86 740 840 550 795 895 SP105 SP125C Super 797 73A 77 SP85 SP118 PM1000 Titan 50/57

    McCulloch Carburetor
    50 minutes agoReport
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    PogoInTheWoods likes this.


    Ron
 
Here is some pic of the saw. I am planning to replace the bar and chain. So I also need to change the sprocket? Would you know what part no.?
I was looking at this setup for a chain and bar. Guess this won't work.
OREGON 72LPX066G 66 Drive Link Super 70 Chisel Chain, 3/8-Inch
Oregon 180PXDD176 .050" Gauge 3/8" Pitch 18" Pro-Am Bar

What setup would you recommend? Want a 18 inch bar.

Ron has me fixed up with the starter pawl spring,Thank You!!! All I need now is the linkage from the choke lever to the carb. I made one but it is a little short as you can see in the picture.
I would like to know a little more about putting a auto oiler on it. Not really fond of a manual oiler. Will it just fit into the tank? I have not opened up the oil tank yet but pretty sure it is not a auto oiler.

Thanks
Brian
 

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