Narrow kerf conversion mac 10-10

[hitchhikersthumb]

Before anyone asks I have used the search function and found nothing.

Has anyone converted a 10 series mac to a narrower pitch and a larger sprocket? I'm thinking 3/8 low pro on a 10-10 or a pm700. I'm curious how it worked out before spending the time and energy finding out. I'd like to make it the best possibly version of itself. I haven't looked into porting, timing advance, or anything like that yet. Very green at this but I enjoy experimenting.

Thanks!

 

[drumbum]

Why would you want 3/8lp on a 70cc saw?
Milling?

I have a 54cc saw with a 3/8lp 18" bar.....but I don't think I would try a torquey 70cc with that combo.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

Why would you want 3/8lp on a 70cc saw?
Milling?

I have a 54cc saw with a 3/8lp 18" bar.....but I don't think I would try a torquey 70cc with that combo.

Because theoretically less drag means theoretically faster cutting. I'm thinking 24 or 28" bar and an 8 pin sprocket to take advantage of the torq and less drag.

I'm starting with an 8 pin and a 16" lo pro on the 10-10 because I already have the bar, chain, and sprocket... just need to add a link or 2 to the chain to get it to fit.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

Also, that bar and chain combo weighs significantly less than the 20" stihl es bar and .63 3/8 that the 10-10 usually wears. So I'm thinking a 24 or 28" lo pro bar and chain would balance it really well and help it cut faster.

 

[drumbum]

I don't reckon I'll be able to dissuade you,.....so, good luck and wear some armor.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

I don't reckon I'll be able to dissuade you,.....so, good luck and wear some armor.

I'm not looking to be discouraged, or even encouraged for that matter. I am just curious if others have done conversions or modifications to make a saw cut more efficiently (therefor faster) as opposed to adding power to accomplish the same thing.

 

[Mad Professor]

Why would you want 3/8lp on a 70cc saw?
Milling?

I have a 54cc saw with a 3/8lp 18" bar.....but I don't think I would try a torquey 70cc with that combo.

I've been running Stihl 63PMX on my 066 for 25 years now. Yes for milling

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

I've been running Stihl 63PMX on my 066 for 25 years now. Yes for milling

Is that purely for a smoother cut? Or less stress on the powerhead?

 

[NSEric]

I stuck a 3/8lp bar/chain on a husky 359 because it was the only 3/8 bar I had that fit. I had .325 bars but no rim sprocket.
It cuts really fast and nothing has broke yet.

I think you'd be better off with a 20 inch .325 bar/chain on a 10 10, I think you can make a husky bar fit easily. Try a speed cut bar/chain, they're narrow like 3/8 lp but beefier.
I find the longer 3/8 lp bars too flimsy, if you touch the tip to anything the chain derails.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

I stuck a 3/8lp bar/chain on a husky 359 because it was the only 3/8 bar I had that fit. I had .325 bars but no rim sprocket.
It cuts really fast and nothing has broke yet.

I think you'd be better off with a 20 inch .325 bar/chain on a 10 10, I think you can make a husky bar fit easily. Try a speed cut bar/chain, they're narrow like 3/8 lp but beefier.
I find the longer 3/8 lp bars too flimsy, if you touch the tip to anything the chain derails.

The only true mac bars I have happened to come on the saws. I run husky mount on everything so the bars and chains can swap to anything I have. The 3/8 lo pro bar is off a little echo, so that's aaaaalmost an identical mount pattern to a mac 10 series. Even has the oil hole through the tensioner hole already made for me, which is a nice treat.

Thinking about it today, the 40v battery saws like the Milwaukee have really narrow chain, I wonder how that would go.

This is more for experimentation and fun than anything else. The little 10-10 pulls 24" 3/8 with aggressively filed rakers through hardwood while dogged in and pulling up without bogging, much less stalling. So narrow kerf isn't really needed, but I want to see how fast I can make it.

 

[NSEric]

I bet the milwaukee bar bolts on with a little grinding to the adjuster hole but the narrow kerf .043 3/8 lp is not going to hold up, the .050 stuff is a lot tougher.

 

[drumbum]

Is that purely for a smoother cut? Or less stress on the powerhead?

Milling w/3/8lp is about more wood, less sawdust,.....and a little less stress.

I'm not sure where you will find a 28" lp bar without spending big money

I don't think the juice will be worth the squeeze for what you are after.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

Milling w/3/8lp is about more wood, less sawdust,.....and a little less stress.

I'm not sure where you will find a 28" lp bar without spending big money

I don't think the juice will be worth the squeeze for what you are after.

I agree about the squeeze of juice. I don't think I could bring myself to actually buy another bar since I have the bar and chain, I'll probably just see how an 8 pin does and adjust raker height accordingly. I thought I had a couple 8 pins that would work, but I didn't realize my 10-10 takes a smaller inside diameter sprocket.

Now if I were really thinking I'd put the same setup on the 064 or 7900 with a big sprocket and see what happens

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

I bet the milwaukee bar bolts on with a little grinding to the adjuster hole but the narrow kerf .043 3/8 lp is not going to hold up, the .050 stuff is a lot tougher.

Probably so, and with no chain catch our guard plate thing on the handle that's a great recipe for losing a few fingers.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

You can run any chain you want with a roller nose or a solid one , but they're definitely not lighter or narrower.
The old Remington 22" roller nose or multi mount will fit with a little spring spacer on the studs. You could try one of those just to try it out? But finding the correct lp rim sprocket could be challenging.
Also Oregon makes a drum with the standard size rim , or any 82cc mac drum is standard rim size.( disclaimer, theres a weird 3 shoe out there?) .
Hell , I have a pile of 16" hard nose bars and im sure others do too.

 

[Philbert]

There were a series of threads here about converting saws to run 3/8 low profile chain for milling: I’ll see if I can find them.

This thread title is a little confusing, because ‘narrow kerf’ (e.g. Oregon Type 95 or Type 90) is different than ‘low profile’: it requires a thinner bar.

Smaller format chains also come with a thinner, lighter, ‘chassis’, which can snap under high torque. Oregon recommends their 3/8” low profile (Type 91) chain be only run on saws up to 42cc, and bars up to 18”.

Philbert

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

You can run any chain you want with a roller nose or a solid one , but they're definitely not lighter or narrower.
The old Remington 22" roller nose or multi mount will fit with a little spring spacer on the studs. You could try one of those just to try it out? But finding the correct lp rim sprocket could be challenging.
Also Oregon makes a drum with the standard size rim , or any 82cc mac drum is standard rim size.( disclaimer, theres a weird 3 shoe out there?) .
Hell , I have a pile of 16" hard nose bars and im sure others do too.

Ah good idea. I suspected my 850 would have a standard spline. That's one of the bits and pieces I should remember to grab when I pick up my saws from Mr Heimann. I hear he may have one laying around someplace.

My only hard-nose bars are off a zip and some tiny top-handle. I think the 16"echo bar is just right for my intended application. We'll see what an 8 or 9 pin rim does to it.

One 10-10 set up for speed, another with a standard 20", the 700 with a skip 28" and the 850 with a 32" skip.

How's that for a 3 saw plan? Wait... that's 4. Ah well, might as well get a few dozen more.

 

[Philbert]

Here’s that older thread about running 3/8” low profile chains on larger saws and longer bars.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/getting-serious-about-lo-pro.121746/

Philbert

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

There were a series of threads here about converting saws to run 3/8 low profile chain for milling: I’ll see if I can find them.

This thread title is a little confusing, because ‘narrow kerf’ (e.g. Oregon Type 95 or Type 90) is different than ‘low profile’: it requires a thinner bar.

Smaller format chains also come with a thinner, lighter, ‘chassis’, which can snap under high torque. Oregon recommends their 3/8” low profile (Type 91) chain be only run on saws up to 42cc, and bars up to 18”.

Philbert

I also imagine this topic has been discussed in the hot saw arena. I'd think it would be one more variable to optimize for the fastest possible cut.

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

Here’s that older thread about running 3/8” low profile chains on larger saws and longer bars.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/getting-serious-about-lo-pro.121746/

Philbert

Thanks! As I said, I did look around for similar threads, but I must not be good enough with the site features to find it.