Low speed was just short of 1.5 turns out from lightly seated.
The front jet is the low speed. I've seen them be anywhere from 1/2 turn to 1 3/4.
Back it out another 1/2 turn and test. Keep a mental note of the L & H jets setting for when it was running good It will be a good start for later if you have to go through the carb, etc.
The little stud on top of carb that came off with the cover is suppose to have a little thin copper seal washer on it.
I'm going to have to unplug my computer until tomorrow due to popcorn storms.
The small amount of raw fuel in the air box is a bad thing and could be related to your issue.
That carb has a internal fuel pump and if you are seeing raw fuel and it idles that kinda means the pump will suck air.
Usually the OEM Mac fuel line on the bottom of the carb has a wimpy little pressure clamp and lets the fuel line leak, especially if the fuel line is rock hard. I replace that clamp with a itty bitty screwdriver type.
If the leak is not at the fuel line that Tillotson #3 on my post on pg 2 may be correct.
In meantime before I get back to you you can find a Tillotson carb kit for the HL-63D on flea bay and some real good HL carb info at the Tillotson site, shows IPL, adjustments, etc.
If it has the old hard fuel line, plan on replacing it. I use tygon tubing for the fuel line.
Be careful around the two bolts holding the carb. You will eventually find that your can just loosen them up and twist the carb sideways to remove and install. (but first time just take them completely loose and pay attention to the lip on the intake adapter, it's what causes the ears to break if not aligned.
Also pay attention to the little hole in the manifold and GASKETS, its the fuel pump pulse hole.
The kit for that carb HL-63D is a RK-88HL about $10 from flea bay and here is a link to your carb IPL
https://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/techinfo_hl_us.pdf
and you might see some additional Tillotson info at this link.
https://tillotson.ie/resources/#manuals
Heads UP notice; When you take out the single screw in the bottom cover on the carb, first place a witness mark on all the carb bodies, then peck and try to gently get the cover off without breaking the cork gasket and the sintered iron filter may stay in the cover. Do not break the filter screen, none is in the kit. Reason I say this is the kits new cork gasket usually is wrong size and the filter is usually hard to remove from the cover and can be cleaned in place with low pressure air backwards. injecting some ATF fluid into the gas input and let it soak for few hours will sometimes aid in getting the bottom cover off easier and saving the gasket. Do not try to clean the carb with direct injection of air or you WILL BLOW out a welch plug UN NOTICED and they are not in the kit. Just use low pressure 15# and do not direct inject the holes with air. Pay attention to the IPL gasket and diaphragm layout and don't get them upside down and backwards and the kit has different diaphragms and gaskets so match them up with your old ones as a guide.
I soak those carbs in 50/50 mix of white vinegar and warm water for couple hours with good results.
That carb is obselete, but A GOOD one will show up on ebay every once in awhile that needs a kit (for around $20 but don't buy one with scarred up screws) and you can use a HL-63A or HL-63E. ( these are interchangeable and a direct bolt in replacement. for yours) Other places they seem to be around $40-60 and need a kit.
chainsawyers.com is a good place to review Mac chainsaw parts also.