making a 6 way wedge

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FerrisDiesel

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Hey guys,
looking to make a 6 way wedge for my splitter......it's a homemade splitter, set up like a American CLS splitter......I looked into getting a 6 way from American but it's like :jawdrop: $375.00:jawdrop: I have some steel in my shop, what size do you guys think I should use for the slip on and should I just buy the wedges and weld them on for the 6 way or try and mill them??? If I do mill them what size steel and what kind should I use???
So many questions!!!
Thanks for any help
 
What's the thickest stuff you got hanging around?

I have some remnant 3/4" A36 FB that would probably work good.

And milling isn't needed... Just a torch or plasma cutter, a 9" grinder, and some time.


Does your splitter look like this one?

New_Log%20Splitters.png
 
yesssssss

It does look like that, it's actually homemade and when I built it I added the backing plate to it so I could use my uncles 4 way wedge...........I'm running a 22gpm pump with a 22 hp kohler pro with a 4"piston.....I am pretty sure it can handle a 6 way......on the nice straight stuff.
So you think 3/4 inch stock should do????
 
On my 4 way I built I used an older homemade single splitter wedge (about 2" thick and 6"tall) that sticks out in front of the 3 other splitter wings. This starts the split vertically and low to the beam so when the 2 sides of the log contact the horizontal wings they only have to split one side. The 2 horizontal and one vertical wing are only made of 1/2" steel with a hardened edge welded on. They really just slice a split through the wood. I would have used 3/4" myself if I'd had it but the 1/2" has held up for about 70 full cords so far.
 
Yes, the 3/4" should work fine... When you fab it up, try and imagine where the loading will occur on the wedge, and make sure those points are strong.

I also recommend multiple pass welds (like pictured below), and follow this simple rule--on a fillet weld, make it the same thickness as the parent material. Be sure to clean with a brush and slag hammer between passes... Trying to avoid inclusions or porosity.

Weld1.jpg

Weld2.jpg


Another option is a PJP, or 'Partial Joint Penetration'. On thicker material, this also works very well.

Weld4.jpg

Weld3.jpg
 
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