Countyline 30 ton log splitter

[memory]

Possibly looking to upgrade our current log splitter, which is a MTD 20 ton with a Countyline 30 ton log splitter from Tractor Supply. Wanted to get opinions on it from those who have had it a while. Watched a few videos on it and do have a few concerns about it. One is the plate that the engine is mounted on. It doesn't look all the strong. Anyone had any issues with the engine mounting plate? Second is the wedge channel. Before I even watched any videos, I thought it would catch alot of debris. It does push debris under the cylinder when you retract the wedge and looks like may be a good idea to clean it after each use to keep it from getting packed in there. I do alot of splitting in the horizontal position which it would catch more running that way. Anybody done anything to remedy this? Now the video I watched was posted a year ago so maybe the design has changed since then, haven't looked at one in person yet. Looks the same in online pics.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-30-ton-log-splitter

 

[spuldup]

I have the 25 ton which is the same design. I would recommend it. The engine is vulnerable to damage from the split coming off the far side if it is stuck to the wedge and the operator fails to notice this. A guard or crossbar could be added for some peace of mind. I have never hit the engine. The channel under the cylinder does collect chips but once it is full they self-bail out the back and do not jam. I wipe them out after I'm done with it for the day, but that is all. I spit some larger hardwoods and have never had it hit relief and stop. It goes to low range and powers through everything. It can be moved by hand like the guy in the TSC video but over rough ground or uphill that's not happening. I use the tractor to move it 95% of the time. The engine starts well and is sized well for the pump and cylinder. It never shows signs of slowing down.

I have and recommend the cover and 4 way wedge for it. And the side rack but it looks the 30T already has one.

 

[djones]

Possibly looking to upgrade our current log splitter, which is a MTD 20 ton with a Countyline 30 ton log splitter from Tractor Supply. Wanted to get opinions on it from those who have had it a while. Watched a few videos on it and do have a few concerns about it. One is the plate that the engine is mounted on. It doesn't look all the strong. Anyone had any issues with the engine mounting plate? Second is the wedge channel. Before I even watched any videos, I thought it would catch alot of debris. It does push debris under the cylinder when you retract the wedge and looks like may be a good idea to clean it after each use to keep it from getting packed in there. I do alot of splitting in the horizontal position which it would catch more running that way. Anybody done anything to remedy this? Now the video I watched was posted a year ago so maybe the design has changed since then, haven't looked at one in person yet. Looks the same in online pics.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-30-ton-log-splitter

I have one. (1) The mounting plate is ok but the welding to the frame (oil reservoir tank) needs to be checked every once in a while. I had to take the motor off, drain the tank, grind out the leaking seam and reweld the plate. (2) The wedge channel does collect debris and it can get jammed in there quite tight. I keep a 4 ft. steel rod handy and after an hour or two of operation I put the ram forward and clean out both sides of the channel. Sometimes it takes a hammer to help clean it out. The only other issue I have is that the ram guides on both sides of the wedge wear out over time. The design is not to my liking so I modified it. I also added 2 pieces of flat stock on the off side of the rail. There are 2 holes on the rail on both sides. The flat stock is 3/8" or 7/16" and has a 90° lip on the far end. The stock also has a slight downward bend on the rail end. The stock is about 18" long. This allows me to split large pieces without worrying about the split falling off the splitter. It holds it in place while I split the other half and then I can slide it back to finishing splitting. It also serves as a loading place for smaller pieces. I can put 3 or 4 six inch dia. pieces on it and save time moving between the stack to the splitter. A friend of mind has a similar Countyline splitter and has made the same changes that I suggested here. He has 2 kids doing the splitting and one feeds the splitter while the other does the splitting. Hope this helps your decision making.

 

[memory]

Decided to get the Countyline 30 ton from TSC. Have not had a chance to use it yet but will soon. One thing I will say for anyone that buys a splitter, this probably goes for most brands especially the box store brands and is not really a knock on the brand, is to check all the bolts, hose connections and wheel bearings. On mine, I found 2 engine mounting bolts really lose. Also the wheel bearings have very little grease in them, will be repacking them soon. Very rarely take it on the road.

I added a wheel jack which I think will be really nice for our situation. It is quite a bit heavier to pick up vs. our old one. To me, the stand that it came with seemed kind of cumbersome to work especially when unhooking it. Maybe that was just me and not getting used to it. We have a concrete lot that we cut and split alot of wood on and the wheel jack will make it nice and easy to move around. I am going to add a stroke limiter but nut exactly sure how yet. Have a good idea of what I want to do. Found a video of what I want to do, it involves 2 eye bolts attached to the log dislodger, an eye bolt on the control handle and a piece of rope. The video I found on this, he done this on a 40 ton Countyline. Seems that the 40 ton wedge is taller and the channel is wider. The log dislodger already has 2 holes drilled in it but they are up to high for the wedge to catch the rope. Just have to drill 2 new holes a few inches lower. Does anyone know what those 2 holes are for? Can take a pic if needed.

It does come with the side table and if it didn't, would have added one right away. Put one on the old one couple years ago and wish I had done that much sooner. Split most stuff horizontal and that table helps out alot. On the old one, when splitting vertical, it protects the engine, it sits right beside the hydrualic tank. That is not an issue on the new one since the engine is on front side of the hydraulic tank.

On the maintenance of it, book says to change the hydrualic filter at 25 hours but says nothing about changing the fluid. Should the fluid be changed at same time? If so, what kind of hydrualic oil is everyone using? Calls for AW32, AW46, universal hydraulic fluid or ATF if using in cold weather to make it start easier.

 

[cookies]

i have the 25 ton, get magnetic oil drain plugs and change the engine oil after the first tank of fuel through it. Mine produced a decent bit of fine metal dust that stopped afterthe second oil change. I changed the hdro oil and filter after about 15 tanks of fuel and now change the filter yearly as part of its services. the 4 way is ok for making kindling but I would not run it through logs over 10" . the wedge wears out over time, keep its channel oiled after use.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I’ve ran my 30 ton from tsc for 4 years now. Has split everything, No complaints.

 

[memory]

i have the 25 ton, get magnetic oil drain plugs and change the engine oil after the first tank of fuel through it. Mine produced a decent bit of fine metal dust that stopped afterthe second oil change. I changed the hdro oil and filter after about 15 tanks of fuel and now change the filter yearly as part of its services. the 4 way is ok for making kindling but I would not run it through logs over 10" . the wedge wears out over time, keep its channel oiled after use.

You said the wedge wears out, are you talking about the 4 way wedge? I thought about getting a 4 way wedge but after hearing others talk about it, think it might be more of an annoyance then it would help. Thinking would constantly be taking it on and off. On the magnetic drain plug, where do you get them? What is the right size?

I do plan on putting an hour/tach meter on it.

 

[cookies]

You said the wedge wears out, are you talking about the 4 way wedge? I thought about getting a 4 way wedge but after hearing others talk about it, think it might be more of an annoyance then it would help. Thinking would constantly be taking it on and off. On the magnetic drain plug, where do you get them? What is the right size?

I do plan on putting an hour/tach meter on it.

When I did a oil change I measured the bolt and its thread pitch, mine is the 25 ton with the kholer aka honda copy with two m10x1.25 drain plugs so I got two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114TT4FC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and also this one for the dip stick https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VK1H6HG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

now when I change or check the oil they have a very small amount of ultra fine metal on them but those first two changes were loaded with metal. The shuttle style wedge wears where it rides in the rail allowing it to cock under load but still functions. I ran abut 40 cords through it before it became noticeable but some of those logs I was splitting were gigantic. 16-20 inches long but 24+ inches across of gnarly knotted super hard to split hickory and oak but the machine just powered through it slowly, thats why I oil the slide area after use and keep the ram stored fully retracted. The engine air filter stays pretty clean if you wash and oil its prefilter every few tanks, I had to re jet the carb one size up because it was just too lean and I could hear the engine pinging in the colder temps with the machine warmed up. Now I split 99% of everything at 1/2-2/3 throttle with ample power. The wheel bearings had very little grease and failed under 20 miles, the shuttle bearings and a 4 way wedge were replaced under warranty. The 4 way works great at making kindling and on straight logs under 10 inches in diameter if you need lots of smaller splits that will dry fast. I added the shelf to mine, super helpful and also I threw away the crappy spring pin for the hitch ball latch and replaced it with this to make it harder to steal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IH2T4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tools I highly suggest to use with the machine are a light sharp hatchet to cut fibers in larger logs the machines wedge is too small to split it in one shot. The other tool is a hook or picaroon to move things around and even as a lever to hold split logs apart or tear them and for that last stinking piece you cant reach in the center of the truck bed!!!!! When I pull it I put the bed down to remind me to keep my speed under 45mph and I get out to touch the hubs after driving to check for excessive bearing temps, this saved my butt many times from ruining hubs/bearings. Next I plan to put neodymium magnets on the hydro oil filter...its the mechanic in me I just cant help it hahaha and to possibly get larger ends on the hydro lines as the metal between the fitting and the hose is reduced 1/4? vs the hose id.

 

[memory]

When I did a oil change I measured the bolt and its thread pitch, mine is the 25 ton with the kholer aka honda copy with two m10x1.25 drain plugs so I got two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114TT4FC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and also this one for the dip stick https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VK1H6HG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

now when I change or check the oil they have a very small amount of ultra fine metal on them but those first two changes were loaded with metal. The shuttle style wedge wears where it rides in the rail allowing it to cock under load but still functions. I ran abut 40 cords through it before it became noticeable but some of those logs I was splitting were gigantic. 16-20 inches long but 24+ inches across of gnarly knotted super hard to split hickory and oak but the machine just powered through it slowly, thats why I oil the slide area after use and keep the ram stored fully retracted. The engine air filter stays pretty clean if you wash and oil its prefilter every few tanks, I had to re jet the carb one size up because it was just too lean and I could hear the engine pinging in the colder temps with the machine warmed up. Now I split 99% of everything at 1/2-2/3 throttle with ample power. The wheel bearings had very little grease and failed under 20 miles, the shuttle bearings and a 4 way wedge were replaced under warranty. The 4 way works great at making kindling and on straight logs under 10 inches in diameter if you need lots of smaller splits that will dry fast. I added the shelf to mine, super helpful and also I threw away the crappy spring pin for the hitch ball latch and replaced it with this to make it harder to steal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IH2T4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tools I highly suggest to use with the machine are a light sharp hatchet to cut fibers in larger logs the machines wedge is too small to split it in one shot. The other tool is a hook or picaroon to move things around and even as a lever to hold split logs apart or tear them and for that last stinking piece you cant reach in the center of the truck bed!!!!! When I pull it I put the bed down to remind me to keep my speed under 45mph and I get out to touch the hubs after driving to check for excessive bearing temps, this saved my butt many times from ruining hubs/bearings. Next I plan to put neodymium magnets on the hydro oil filter...its the mechanic in me I just cant help it hahaha and to possibly get larger ends on the hydro lines as the metal between the fitting and the hose is reduced 1/4? vs the hose id.

Ty for info. I will look into a magnetic drain plug when I do the first oil change. I believe the 25ton has a different series engine than the 30 ton so guessing it could be a different size.

On the wheel bearings, I plan on repacking them as there is very little in them which seems common for alot of them. Seen others saying same thing. In my situation, this thing rarely sees the road. I do keep a small hatchet and a pickaroon when I am doing firewood. Works great for reaching pieces in the truck and I like it for picking up pieces off the ground which don't happen that much.

 

[cookies]

Keep in mind these things are delivered requiring assembly, fluids added including bearings packed by folks who likely have 0 experience.

 

[memory]

Keep in mind these things are delivered requiring assembly, fluids added including bearings packed by folks who likely have 0 experience.

Yes I realize that which is why I checked everything after I got it home.

 

[memory]

I got a chance to run the splitter. Ran it less than an hour and when I stopped, I checked the cylinder and it was extremely hot. I checked fluids before hand and it is good. Trying to find out if this is normal or not before I contact TSC about it. Outside temp is in the 30's. On my old one, it barely got warm after splitting for a while. The old one does have ATF fluid and new one has AW32, not sure if that would make that much of a difference.