Got him.
Making Bar Oil...?
- Thread starter sdowiat
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Got him.
I've run used oil a couple of times but only when there wasn't any other choice. On one occasion we were cutting dry madone and oak .The bars ran hotter than usual and got a black crust on them. Everthing had black splatters on it and it smelled like refinery fire. That never happened with regular bar oil.
In emergencies I've also used hydraulic fluid, 90 wt thinned with kerosene, 50 wt, 30 wt, cooking oil, and some stuff we found in a glass jug that didn't have a lable but felt oily enough to work. None of this stuff worked real well, but it got us through the day.
If you guys want to run that black crap in your saws go right ahead. I'll stick with stuff that I know will work.
In emergencies I've also used hydraulic fluid, 90 wt thinned with kerosene, 50 wt, 30 wt, cooking oil, and some stuff we found in a glass jug that didn't have a lable but felt oily enough to work. None of this stuff worked real well, but it got us through the day.
If you guys want to run that black crap in your saws go right ahead. I'll stick with stuff that I know will work.
Everyone is missing the point here. It's not the oil in the used oil that is the real problem. The oil eventually breaks down, but the heavy metals in used oil do not, and will find their way into water ways and rivers. One pint of used oil has enough gunk to contaminate one hundred thousand gallons of water.
Sure there is WAY more oil in total dropped on and washed off roads every year - but since when did two wrongs make a right?
Here is another way of looking at the problem, if the average loss of used oil from every motor vehicle in the USA is just one ounce of oil per year that works out to be a total of 4 million gallons per year! This tells me that we should be fixing our leaking vehicles as well as not using used oil.
Most people do not realize how close we came to poisoning ourselves with lead in leaded gasoline in the 1970s. Lead poisoning lowers IQ and an ability to reason - interestingly, people living in heavily lead polluted inner city suburbs had the highest drop in IQ. The USA had reached a level of lead poisoning about half that of where the Romans were by the time their empire crumbled.
Mac_Muz
ArboristSite Guru
It depends on how timely your oil changes are.. How many cold starts that never get the engine warm enough to blow the crankcase clear of moisture.
How do you know these oil pans are mint inside?
If I rebuilt a air cooled VW engine, i rebuilt 1,000, and many of them had internal webbing damage from acid oil.
Bar oil gets all over a magnesium alloy the saw cases are made of, and can be eatten up fairly easy by acids in oil, and even some plants as I hear it, like palm oil.
In New Hampshire there is no palm trees, but there were threads here showing wild damage. The damage looked alot like mag wheels in NY winter salt, where a lot of metal was gone, all moon crater like.
There can be sludgy acid water in used motor oil too. Many VW engines would be eatten up at the oil strainer screen, to include the base of the stainer screen.
But i don't care what anyone runs in their saws.. Seems like an opinion for others to have a say was called for, and this one is mine.
I take care of my tools and have many still doing well since 1970.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Exactly... it gets everywhere... nasty stuff. I've used it only once when there was no other option... Only time I ever witnessed a bar wear more in one day of cuttin'. Ran hot too...
Also used cranckcase oil has gasoline in it from ring blowby... so it acts like a solvent. You ain't gonna "strain" that gas outta the oil.
Good luck... and stock up on oiler parts...
Gary
StihlyinEly
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ljute
Free Teak
i want to know how--it will get aersoled--seeuns how the chain runs in sawdust--
OK, let's modify the OP's question a bit.
If you could not find bar and chain oil, but had access to NEW motor oil:
1) which weight would you use (10W30? Straight 30? 5W30?, etc.) for normal summer use?
2) Would it make sense to use ANY additives to it (like the STP he mentioned) to make it work more like commercial bar and chain oil?
Philbert
If you could not find bar and chain oil, but had access to NEW motor oil:
1) which weight would you use (10W30? Straight 30? 5W30?, etc.) for normal summer use?
2) Would it make sense to use ANY additives to it (like the STP he mentioned) to make it work more like commercial bar and chain oil?
Philbert
I agree, very little or none of the oil itself will get aerosoled. But the oil component is the least of the worries, used oil contains gas and carcinogenic cracked oil components, some of these are volatile and small amounts will evaporate from a hot B&C, and that's also why it stinks. However, unless an operator continually smears themselves with used oil I think using too much two stroke lube is worse for the operator than using used oil. Just because the operator can't see any smoke doesn't mean there is nothing coming out of the exhaust. Lube contains all sorts of gunk including smoke suppressants. These just make the smoke particles too fine to see but it doesn't mean there is nothing there.
Used oil is more of an overall environmental issue than excess lube.
willsaw4beer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why not just run used fryer oil instead of old motor oil? I mean if you're going to be cheap and don't care about your equipment anyways. Or just get a drum of canola oil or something...
Ljute
Free Teak
willsaw4beer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Are transfats bad for the bar?
I think canola oil is actually supposed to be really low in trans fats?
Mac_Muz
ArboristSite Guru
I have used that since 1990 for a forge quench media, and so far I havent gained an ounce..
willsaw4beer
Addicted to ArboristSite
And I bet it smells better than real 'quench' oil.. I actually ran a rotary furnace and a Gleason quenching die press- I know the Gleason was of 1942 vintage (I was running it in 2008..) and leaked at least a 55 gal drum of hydraulic oil a week into the quench tank so the smoke that came out of that die every quench was pretty sickening to say the least..
nanuk
ArboristSite Guru
Stabilizer at Canadian Tire.
there is some stuff at Canadian tire and I think at NAPA that makes the oil real sticky ... there's some wheels in it that you turn and it pulls the oil up to the top.
it looks like it'd work if you wanted to "Home Brew" something.
As to gear oil?
I have read somewhere, I think it was a site about milling, where the guy was talking about chain/oil/etc relating to milling, and what works best...
IIRC, he said he only uses gear oil for it's adherence to the bar and chain.
I'll tr and see if I can find it again.
there is some stuff at Canadian tire and I think at NAPA that makes the oil real sticky ... there's some wheels in it that you turn and it pulls the oil up to the top.
it looks like it'd work if you wanted to "Home Brew" something.
As to gear oil?
I have read somewhere, I think it was a site about milling, where the guy was talking about chain/oil/etc relating to milling, and what works best...
IIRC, he said he only uses gear oil for it's adherence to the bar and chain.
I'll tr and see if I can find it again.
jimdad07
Addicted to ArboristSite
try veggie oil. You can probably get it for free from rest. and filter it. Used motor oil through your saw is not good. would you put it back in your car to save $26.00 on an oil change? Probably not, so why would you put it through your saw. A gallon of bar and chain oil lasts me twenty face cord load of logs and then some. Not that much of an expense.
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
duh, because all the diesel heads scarf it up for homebrew bio!
otherwise sure...
Interesting stuff there; I didn't know the Romans drove cars fueled with leaded gasoline.
Mr. HE
