Makita 9010 Bigend failure....HELP!

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YarraValleyDude

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Hey all,
I have a Makita 9010 with a bigend bearing failure and am wondering whats the best way to go about repairing it?

Looking in the parts manual it appears that the crank and conrod is one assembly, does anyone know if this is the case?

At this stage i have the saw half torn down but am still to split the cases, also i can't find any other damage anywhere. Fingers crossed!

Would someone like to take a stab in the dark at what the parts might cost and where i could best source them from, I've had dealing with Makita Australia before and would prefer to bypass them alltogether if possible.......

Rob
 
Yep, the crank/rod is a one piece assembly.
They are possible to split but an experienced two stroke engine builder/machinist needs to do it and setup the crank again after reassembly.

Obviously you'll need a gasket set, new mains, seals and a crank assembly.

There's a number of good Dolmar dealers on this board you can get parts through.
Even with the drop in the A$ it'll be cheaper sourcing from OS, I'm about to gets some bits for a Husky 3120 from the US.
I've used Kyle from Edge and Engine a number of times for parts for my Makita.
Great bloke, really fast service and you can order online. Edge & Engine
Maybe drop him an email and he can advise what he thinks you'll need in case you miss something.

You may save a couple of $ by buying some SKF or FAG mains in C3 clearance (can't remember the bearing size) here rather than getting OE ones, but you may not either.

I'll be interested to know how/why it failed ?
 
Hey Rick, cheers for the reply.....

By the sounds of it, it aint gonna be a cheap fix.....BUGGER!
Was hoping to just get away with a bearing and maybe a rod...
The rest of the engine is still as new inside, as to why it failed, all i can tell you is the rod got hot for some reason as evidenced by the lovely blue colour around the bigend.

I'll drop Edge and Engine an email as you suggested and take it from there i guess.....

Thanks again
Rob
 
Just remember you can pick the big fella up for around the $1150 mark incl.GST new these days.

Sounds like a really odd failure, have you checked the air filter that it hasn't ingested something ?
I know the earlier 9000 had some crank issues but they were solved with the 9010 and there's heaps of the 9010's out there slabbing and doing heavy duty cutting day in, day out.
 
Yep thats what i paid for mine about 3 yrs ago.

Ironicly i just cleaned the filter and gave her a much need clean all round and then on the third or fourth tank whilst most of the way through a 30" round she let out a god almighty squeal and then good night Irene!

I'll have to wait till the weekend to split the cases to see if theres anything else down in there and I'll be very surprised if there is.
Anyway I'll let you know how i went....

Rob.
 
I will check to see if I have any good cranks left for those saws. I had a few, not sure how many I used.

Later
Dan
 
Rob

Sorry I must have used up all of those cranks. I did find some engine cases, good piston and cylinder,fuel tank,carb and some plastic.

Later
Dan
 
Ran into similar myself recently. You can't buy just the bearing, which is kinda stupid. I was told everything from the parts won't match up to you can't take the part apart. I had mine apart in a couple minutes with a press. I would have been plenty happy to put a new bearing in and trying it rather than replacing the whole crank. I have it back together with a new crank now, but I have every intention of finding a bearing and putting it back together with it just so I can prove it can be done and say "I advised you thus previously".
 
If you could get the parts the crank could be rebuilt.

BUT.....you need a heavy duty press to remove/install the pin. Machinist V-blocks, dial indicator, and dead level surface for the V-blocks to check crank runout after assembly.

Years ago I did this with a few motorcycle cranks but I was working at a shop that had all the tools and I got the parts for cost.

I would look for a good used OEM crank.
 
I've managed to find a few new OEM cranks online in the US and now just waiting for shipping quotes, hope to hear from them after the weekend.

As far as rebuilding the origional crank goes, i could probably attemp this at home as i have a 30ton press, dial indicator and vee blocks but really couldn't be bothered with all the hassle of doing it as I've never done it before. Much easier to spend a couple of hundred of dollars and have it right first time.
Plan is then to sell the saw as I've never been happy with it from day one.....

Rob
 
I recently sent 5 damaged Sachs Dolmar 166 cranks to The Crank Shop
in Vermont. They were able to make me 3 good cranks with new lower
rod bearings. Ironically they couldn't find the bearing. So i called the
bearing company i use and they found a bearing. I had them ship
directly to them and i ended up with 3 nice rebuilt cranks for under
100.00 each. Thats cheap for a 166.




Lee
 
I recently sent 5 damaged Sachs Dolmar 166 cranks to The Crank Shop
in Vermont. They were able to make me 3 good cranks with new lower
rod bearings. Ironically they couldn't find the bearing. So i called the
bearing company i use and they found a bearing. I had them ship
directly to them and i ended up with 3 nice rebuilt cranks for under
100.00 each. Thats cheap for a 166.




Lee


Lee, are they FAG, INA or SKF ?
 
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