Makita DCS 5121

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J0HN_R1

J0HN_R1

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
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Location
Alberta, Canada
Hi everybody, first post on the forum so here goes.

Forty y/o from the Canadian Maritimes, but living/working in Alberta.

I know my way around a chainsaw & small-engines a bit, but I'm the furthest thing from a pro.

Today I bought what I felt was an exceptional saw for a really low price. A Makita DCS 5121-18

It's in ex-cond, starts after 2-3 pulls, idles a little "lumpy" but idles, throttle seems nice & responsive (under no load).

What I want to know is, what is the general consensus regarding this particular saw ?

Good aspects / Bad aspects ? Availability of replacement parts ? Originally branded Dolmar PS-510 ?

Any help & input is greatly appreciated, but please keep the comparisons to a minimum as to avoid the inevitably ensuing disagreements !

(Wait..., did that sound "bossy" ?)

Cheers, John

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Not 100% but I think that would be a 5100 not a 510 dolmar. ( less hp and heavier than the 5100/5105) Either way I don't think Dolmar really makes a "bad" saw. they all run :) Never got to play with their blue relatives but I'm sure they are good to go. Love the double bucking spikes!
 
Yoopermike said:
Not 100% but I think that would be a 5100 not a 510 dolmar. ( less hp and heavier than the 5100/5105) Either way I don't think Dolmar really makes a "bad" saw. they all run :) Never got to play with their blue relatives but I'm sure they are good to go. Love the double bucking spikes!
Click to expand...

This is incorrect. The saw you have is the same as a Dolmar 510. The Makita version of the 5100/5105 is Model EA5000P53G to the best of my knowledge. I have a Dolmar 510 and its a great saw. A little heavy but a good firewood saw. But not as strong as the 5100/5105's.
 
the 5121 chassis that you have is a Dolmar 510. It is about 3.3hp vs the 5105/5100 Dolmar or Makita 5000 which is 3.9hp. The only difference is the top ends and the crankcase is aluminum instead of magnesium like the 5100/5105/5000.

good saw. check your carb and make sure it's adjusted right and is not to lean or rich and you should be good to go.
 
For some reason my 510 is very finicky as far as carb settings! Its like i have to re-tune it twice a year?? It's like all of a sudden it starts loading up when it idles so i have to lean out the L side?? I have also had to put two diaphragms in the card in two years but i hope i have fixed that issue!
 
As far as I understood there are different carb membrane materials that hold up different to gas mix and premix.

7
 
So after closer inspection (and a 10" log test), the chain is dull as a butter knife...

And it may be because of the new (possibly over-rich in oil) premix fuel I filled it with, but it doesn't run as well now.

Should I dump the fuel and lean-out the premix I made up with some more strait fuel (non-E85) ?

It bogs out during WOT now, I have to feather it up to its max of about 10,000 rpm.
 
Would 200m (600ft) in elevation have any effect on it ? I was in the back-country testing her out...

1400m elevation during test, 1200m at the house.

:confused:
 
J0HN_R1 said:
Would 200m (600ft) in elevation have any effect on it ? I was in the back-country testing her out...

1400m elevation during test, 1200m at the house.

:confused:
Click to expand...
Welcome to the site.

No, that is not enough elevation change to make a difference what so ever.
I live at 2,200' and alot of the cutting I do is around 4,000' to 8,000'. Even at 8k I only have to make a slight carb adjustment for the saw to run just right.

Here are a couple good tuning videos that members have made that you can benefit from.





 
RedFir Down said:
Welcome to the site.

No, that is not enough elevation change to make a difference what so ever.
I live at 2,200' and alot of the cutting I do is around 4,000' to 8,000'. Even at 8k I only have to make a slight carb adjustment for the saw to run just right.

Here are a couple good tuning videos that members have made that you can benefit from.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I appreciate the help.

I had a pretty good idead how to tune the Hi & Lo, thanks to my old-man & watching videos more recently.

I'll let y'all know how the tune goes, after I sharpen the chain...

;)
 
Yes, you will have to to make adjustable.

I use a Drexel to get the epoxy out of the top the drill small holes through the aluminum casing (trying to go between the jets) then use a side cutter to take that off in pieces and chunks.

Also look on here fordf150 posted a how too
 
Take carb off, heat with hair dryer or heat gun. It will soften and allow you to pick it out with a screw driver... If you don't have a dremel to cut it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So do I cut the aluminum block ? How much ?

Do I need to re-slot the shafts to accept a screwdriver once the block is cut ?

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Poleman said:
Also look on here fordf150 posted a how too
Click to expand...

I looked under all his threads, couldnt find a "How-To". Also searched his name tagged with "Makita" and got nothing.

:confused: EDIT - found it...
 

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