Makita EA7900P45E Or Dolmar, Info Wanted

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Greenerpastures

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Hi everyone

Looking about I can get a Makita EA7900P45E for the right money.
First off, are they the same as the Dolmar in all but colour or are
they a cheaper spec and build quality or are they an off shoot that
differs signivigently.
Am wondering if anyone is using one or has any experience of one.
Does this saw have a tamper proof carb that can be adjusted a little
with the special tool, or is it like the Dolmars I see in that they are fully
accessible and adjustable.
And lastly, I'm assuming with such a large saw one would go at least
for a 38 chain, if so, what Gauge is best suited to such power.

Looking forward to hearing your comments,

Thanks & Regards, john
 
Hi computeruser
Good to hear the mechanics are the same done some research on the Dolmars and they
seem to do very will indeed, so if the Makita is the same then I might be swayed away from
the Husky / Jonsered offerings, very dependable too, but KW for dollar the Makita offers more.
Might not go as big as 73cc, but it is hard to beat having enough capacity.

Thanks, john
 
Here in the US the new makitas are red like dolmars. https://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ChainSaws/
Thanks rob066
I was torn between a new but older model Makita 7900 or the newer Dolmar 6100, very different in power
but I can get either one for the same price, and if that's not enough to mull over I can get
the Makita 6100 for a full 60.00 sterling cheaper, so in essence its between the two Makitas,
with only 60.00 sterling of a difference.
Its old tech against new, and I read that the oil pumps give trouble on the Makitas, so
any information on what this happens would be much appreciated, as would your comments
regarding old 7900 or the newer 6100, I can not get a 6400 cheap like the 6100 or 7900 Makitas,
so am torn between the 6100 or the 7900. If I knew the oil pump issues were sorted on the newer saw then
it would be a no brainer, am also told the Coil is better on the older 7900 as it goes to 13500 RPM
where the 6100 goes to 1200RPM.

Comments welcome & thanks to all, john
 
Track record, ease of use, more power (when you need it, you need it) but relatively light for the power.
Larger bars, lower rakers(within reason), bigger trees, and small CS milling are options that stay on the table with the 7900.
Can't say fuel consumption has ever been an issue here.
 
Quick question: what kind of trees are you going to fell and cut?

Plainly put the 7900/7910 is an absolute animal, a full-on logging chainsaw for large trees. But those performances come at a cost, chiefly weight and vibrations. It's normal: this is a big saw.
Is it really necessary to haul around that thing? Or will a 60cc professional grade saw like the Dolmar PS6100, the Echo CS620 or the Stihl MS362 do just as well, but with less vibrations and less weight?
I went through the "bigger is better" phase myself but now I have an MS362. It will cut pretty much everything I can come across here without too much fuss. Oak, English walnut... no problem.

Just something to consider.
 
I really must say that the Anti-vibration on the 7900 is top notch. It's spring mounted like a Husky. Does the 6100 have less vibes, probably. I've never run one. But the 7900 I have is SMOOTH. Really smooth.

It's heavier than a 6100, but it's no pig. They're light for an 80cc saw. The other saw the OP has is a nice 50cc. To me, 50cc and 80cc is a good combo. 50cc and 60cc is still a decent difference, but they're too close in capabilities in my opinion to be a good two saw plan.
 
The Dolmar/Makita 7900 is a true pro saw, and it has an adjustable carburetor. There are lots of happy users with the newer auto-tune or M-tronic saws, and there are a bunch of unhappy ones as well who have sold them and moved on.

Don't overlook this fact either.

Also, as one other has asked, what size wood do you see yourself cutting? Don't forget that if you are large enough to handle this saw, that it will cut lots more wood than a 50cc saw can in the same amount of time.

Lots of people run a lightweight, long bar on these and do a lot of bucking with them because they don't slow down much in the cut, as well as you don't have to lean over as much if you run a long bar. Another advantage to having more power than you need. Another thought is that you won't put as much wear and tear on a saw that you are only utilizing 50-80% of the available power all the time, versus a smaller saw that you have pinned to the handle and straining all the time to have enough power to make the cuts you need.

If you already have a 50cc saw, you would really enjoy the power and capability that the 7900 models have. I have worked on several of these Makita/Dolmar 6400/7300/7900 series saws for reasons of bad gasoline ruining the pistons (just like any other brand) and I must say that I really like the engineering on them and the build design much more than the modern Stihl saws. They have some smart designs and remind me more of a professional grade Husqvarna saw that has a carburetor.

I believe the power to weight ratio is one of the best on the market with the 7900 as well.

Don't forget that our major home improvement store chain (Home Depot) here in the USA rents out the smallest CC version of this saw family to anyone with a few bucks in their hand, the model 6400 and 6421, which has virtually the exact same parts everywhere except for the piston and cylinder of the 7900. They are tough saws.
 
6100 is limited to 13800 rpm. A trouble free saw!

Sent from my DMC-CM1 using Tapatalk
Thanks for response, I have a Shindaiwa 490 that does a fair bit of what I need to do, though I know fine well
the 6100 would do it a lot better, but thinking it over and talking to others who do more than I do, I concluded
that although the 6100 is a sweet saw and would do the Shindaiwa's work, I would still come stuck when a bigger
tree or faster cutting were required, So I ordered the 7900 this morning.

Thanks for commenting, john
 
The Dolmar/Makita 7900 is a true pro saw, and it has an adjustable carburetor. There are lots of happy users with the newer auto-tune or M-tronic saws, and there are a bunch of unhappy ones as well who have sold them and moved on.

Don't overlook this fact either.

Also, as one other has asked, what size wood do you see yourself cutting? Don't forget that if you are large enough to handle this saw, that it will cut lots more wood than a 50cc saw can in the same amount of time.

Lots of people run a lightweight, long bar on these and do a lot of bucking with them because they don't slow down much in the cut, as well as you don't have to lean over as much if you run a long bar. Another advantage to having more power than you need. Another thought is that you won't put as much wear and tear on a saw that you are only utilizing 50-80% of the available power all the time, versus a smaller saw that you have pinned to the handle and straining all the time to have enough power to make the cuts you need.

If you already have a 50cc saw, you would really enjoy the power and capability that the 7900 models have. I have worked on several of these Makita/Dolmar 6400/7300/7900 series saws for reasons of bad gasoline ruining the pistons (just like any other brand) and I must say that I really like the engineering on them and the build design much more than the modern Stihl saws. They have some smart designs and remind me more of a professional grade Husqvarna saw that has a carburetor.

I believe the power to weight ratio is one of the best on the market with the 7900 as well.

Don't forget that our major home improvement store chain (Home Depot) here in the USA rents out the smallest CC version of this saw family to anyone with a few bucks in their hand, the model 6400 and 6421, which has virtually the exact same parts everywhere except for the piston and cylinder of the 7900. They are tough saws.
Hi rynosawr
I ordered the 7900 this morning, after some thought and advise, if I went for the 6100 I would still come
stuck with the bigger stuff or if faster cutting was required, hoping it arrives intact and in a timely manner.
Would have like to physically held one or got a go with one before buying, but although there are lots of
Makita dealers here, none were in stock, and they would not bring in one, so I went the online route and found
a fair enough deal.

Wish I kept my tig welder now too, a muffler mod would look tidy with tig.

Thanks to everyone for commenting and sharing your experiences and knowledge, much appreciated.
If anyone is reading this what make chain comes on these saws and what size file is used to sharpen it,
description says 3/8 X .58 on a 450 mm (18")bar, but no mention of chain type.

Thanks & Regards, john
 
John I would think you Will never in out of power with a 18" bar later on try dropping the rakers to capture more power set maybe 8 degrees or more.(20 " on my 660 for comparison)
Plenty handle a 32" full comp just watching that the oiler keeps up.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
 
Hi rynosawr
I ordered the 7900 this morning, after some thought and advise, if I went for the 6100 I would still come
stuck with the bigger stuff or if faster cutting was required, hoping it arrives intact and in a timely manner.
Would have like to physically held one or got a go with one before buying, but although there are lots of
Makita dealers here, none were in stock, and they would not bring in one, so I went the online route and found
a fair enough deal.

Wish I kept my tig welder now too, a muffler mod would look tidy with tig.

Thanks to everyone for commenting and sharing your experiences and knowledge, much appreciated.
If anyone is reading this what make chain comes on these saws and what size file is used to sharpen it,
description says 3/8 X .58 on a 450 mm (18")bar, but no mention of chain type.

Thanks & Regards, john


You should do your own research, but I've heard that the 7900s don't need a muffler mod.

For 3/8 chain, regardless of the type, you'll need a 7/32 round file. 13/64 works too, especially when they get sharpened back a ways.
 
John I would think you Will never in out of power with a 18" bar later on try dropping the rakers to capture more power set maybe 8 degrees or more.(20 " on my 660 for comparison)
Plenty handle a 32" full comp just watching that the oiler keeps up.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the comments, I always keep a good eye to the oil.
 
You should do your own research, but I've heard that the 7900s don't need a muffler mod.

For 3/8 chain, regardless of the type, you'll need a 7/32 round file. 13/64 works too, especially when they get sharpened back a ways.
Good to hear no need for a muffler mod, but if am not wrong is the muffler not one of those with a cat and other obstructions.
Regarding chains I asked because I lately bought a Carlton Super Pro bar with a .325 K2L (Full Chisel) chain, and the instructions
say to use a 11/64 file, I realised this after I initially began to sharpen it, the 5/32 / 4.8mm files that I use on the H25 or the Oregon BPX
in the same size chain would not fit in proppely, not alone did it not fit the groove but it hopped and skipped instead of nicely sliding along,
further investigations revealed the 4.8mm / 7/32 file the other .325 chains used was too big, it even locked up against the rakers because it
was just slightly too big, in any event I needed a 4.5 mm file as no one had an 11/64.

So what is the story, if Carlton gave the correct dimensions for the file to use, then not all .325 chains are the same, .325 only refers to the chain pitch.

Thanks to all for posting
 
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