Maple splitting

[treeguy347]

Here are some pictures of the tree I referred to in Mike's post "Being safe" Any ballpark idea how much you guys would be charging? More importantly, how would you get it down? The closest you can get to it with a truck is about 30-35 feet from trunk because of a septic tank, hill and house. it's approx 24" DBH and 90 feet tall. There is the house and a deck directly beneath it.

 

[treeguy347]

the split thats been making all sorts of noise the past couple days

 

[treeguy347]

how close the deck is

 

[Toddppm]

Tie in to the main trunk and work down the smaller side first. Just have to piece it out. If it makes you feel better wrap a good bull rope around where it's cracked or a ratching strap.

 

[treeguy347]

The other problem the pictures don't show well and I didn't mention is about a third of the top overhangs the house, which would make for tricky rigging.

 

[Kevin]

This is one way... if you're good.

 

[Toddppm]

This is your house isn't it? What better way to get practice

 

[Stumper]

I'd go along with Todd- The primary leader looks as if it is pretty stable. I probably would tie the stems together above the split but below the bulk of the brush so that rigging out the limbs wouldn't cause an "oops" with that secondary lead and its split. Stay tied into the big side all the time. Guying the whole top would be prudent-but it looks as if the primary is really okay in the pics.

 

[NeTree]

Originally posted by treeguy347
how would you get it down?

I'd set my crane up about 35 feet from the trunk and have a climer in the tree pieceing it out, while a chipping crew cuts and chips the pieces as they get landed. When there's nothing but big burnable firewood left, that gets laid on the crane deck. When all is done, the stump grinder can do its work, job complete. I'm merrily along my way.

Originally posted by treeguy347
Any ballpark idea how much you guys would be charging?

Looks like about two hours with the crane and chip truck, and 45 minutes with the stump grinder. Hmmm... probably around $600, unless the customer helps. Then it'd be $800. And if his wife and kids help....$1000 or more.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Why do you want to cut it down?
If the branch makes you nervous, cable it.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

and some rod through the crotch

 

[Oxman]

Cable and rod one way to deal with this splitting branch but an open split like that will have decay starting which will be encouraged by the split branch hugging the primary. Plus the rod will prevent callusing of the wound on the primary. Better to remove that branch and maybe do some lightening of the primary?
If removal needed then agree there's plenty of wood to support climber unlesss/he's really fat.

The circumference of the split looks like <1/3 of the whole; there's plenty of wood supporting the primary. Annual monitoring to check the callus vs. decay race.

I love the smell of growing green leaves in the morning; two-cycle like napalm is pollution.

I hope this won't be signed by ox cuz I ain't him; how do I get him out of this computer?

Guy Meilleur, Consulting Arborist
www.BetterTreeCare.com

 

[treeclimber165]

Guy-
Go to the bottom of the main page and log out. Then log back in using your own ID.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I almost always disagree with JPS , but this time I disagree even more than usual.
I don't think rodding is something that should ever be done, this is a prime example of a tree that should not be rodded. The tree is stressed. It's a forest grown tree that has had lower limbs and a large % of the roots removed. Drilling a huge hole all the way through the tree is just another huge stress, not to mention the long term problems involved with wounding a trees trunk. We talk about ramming lawn mowers into trees, but don't think twice about drilling all the way through. I think the rodding standard is obsolete.
If it is decided that the limb can't be supported with cable or synthetic strands, how about a judicious limb subodination and cable?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I am usualy not in favor of rods either, but he said there is enough movement in the union to have it creak.

The reduction with the cazble is a good idea, but this one looks like a brace is needed due to location.

IMO leaving this union to move is too high a risk. A couple 1/2 inch rods would help keep the tree standing for a decade or so, but only with a cable suystem above.

Mike, what you usualy do is take a narrow statement, then generalize it and blow it all out of proportion.

 

[treeguy347]

Haven't been able to get on for a longenough time to post in the past couple days, but i'm back now. I decided its a bit past my skill level to do safely with the house and all, plus I'm a bit light in the riggin gear department right now - money's real tight Netree: you sure you're not Acme Tree service out of Muskegon, MI??? You sound eerily similar to them They're going to bring in their crane tomorrow and put it as close as they can without going into the septic. Also, they're charging my neighbor (it's actually his tree, we have a goofy property line) $600. We're keeping all the wood - 12" and under goes to the woodstove, anything bigger gets put in a pile for when the weather breaks and we can get our mill guy in, my dad wants it for flooring. Once that branch is gone, there isn't a whole lot left to that tree. In 1998, we had a storm with 100-110 mph winds that put half that same tree on top of the house. I hate to see it go, because the old growth is getting to be sparse, but I'd rather sleep sound at night, seeing my bedroom is the one below it