McCulloch 10 Series Oiler

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Like this

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And here is the spring clip in greater detail

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Mark
 
Thanks for the pictures and the measurements. i notice that gasket looks about 4x thicker than the one i have. is it rubber?

Brian
 
So slot or circle makes no difference obviously. do you think it would work to use high tack on the gasket to help it seal?

Brian
 
I have not found sealant to be necessary on any saw that has the wedge type clip properly installed with the gasket in position.

I really like Ron's solution with the extra hole and screws to be 100% positive, but that works best with the older aluminum body pumps since most were threaded for the screws anyway. I have not tried to tap the plastic body pumps but I expect that could be a problem. I'm sure you could drill the holes in the pump body enough to put a screw all the way through with a nut on the end, now it is getting too complicated.

Mark
 
Mark, I believe you will find that the back two holes are already tapped -8/32.

Brian, the rubber gaskets are also tapered - i.e. wedge shaped.

Ron
 
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Mark, I believe you will find that the back two holes are already tapped -8/32.

Brian, the rubber gaskets are also tapered - i.e. wedge shaped.

Ron

Interesting. so it sort of accomplishes the same thing as the metal spring. i noticed it has a circle shaped ridge as well which would point load and help seal as well.

Brian
 
I have a ProMac 610 and ProMac 10-10 with oiler issues. Too bad the pics are gone. I have the manual but it doesn't really provide a clear understanding...
 
I have a ProMac 610 and ProMac 10-10 with oiler issues. Too bad the pics are gone. I have the manual but it doesn't really provide a clear understanding...

I figured mine out. After reading a little through this thread and looking at some of my parts, I found that I was missing the check ball on the bottom of the auto pump. The previous owner must have had it apart at some point. Fortunately, I had one laying around in the parts pile. I cleaned all the passages, made sure the auto pump worked by filling it with oil and manually pumping it, put it all together, primed it by forcing oil through the pickup via zoom spout and finished assembling it. Fired it up and now both the auto and manual pump work!
 
On the 610, I had the oiler all apart and am convinced it needs the diaphragm. The easiest thing would be to just replace the oiler for $20 but I won't spend $20 on it because I'm probably never gonna get that back. Both of those saws run good but don't oil. There's no market for them around here and I don't need them for cutting. They make a good truck saw but I don't need one of those either. So they just sit on the shelf...
 
PM610 - I expect there are as many 10 Series saws running without the felt breather as still have them in place, in other words no you don't have to have it.

mactodd - it has been a long time since I worked on on like that, indeed that was one of the earliest models with the automatic pump.

There is another version of the automatic pump with an aluminum body and a small screw in one of the back holes to properly locate it in the tank. I am not sure how these were supposed to be fixed in the tank since you can't use the "over center" clip and they didn't seem to have the much later spring clip on the top.

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Mark
Quick question then: does it matter which of the three sections the felt pad goes in? I removed mine and couldn't remember where it went. Thanks for the help in advance
 
When I had the pump off it had oil down inside beneath diaphram and the felt pad was drenched. Is the pump bad?
 
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